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TRP45ACP

TRP45ACP

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This is all the deeper it goes.

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80FoxCoupe

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Had to keep working it back and forth for a while. Where does it start to bind? Where the shank of the stud goes into the pilot of the snout?
 
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It binds 1” in where the barrel (thickest portion of bolt makes contact with crank. The threads of the bolt never have a chance to engage. On the other coyote crank, the bolt slides in perfectly and threads perfectly with its intended tight fit. It seems the crank hole needs to be slightly bigger, idk. Maybe it was a Monday crank. We have tried lightly tapping it, putting the nut and washer on to turn it while pushing, wire brush on pneumatic to clean the crank pilot, nothing works. I am at a loss.
 

80FoxCoupe

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It binds 1” in where the barrel (thickest portion of bolt makes contact with crank. The threads of the bolt never have a chance to engage. On the other coyote crank, the bolt slides in perfectly and threads perfectly with its intended tight fit. It seems the crank hole needs to be slightly bigger, idk. Maybe it was a Monday crank. We have tried lightly tapping it, putting the nut and washer on to turn it while pushing, wire brush on pneumatic to clean the crank pilot, nothing works. I am at a loss.
Try a sanding roll to clean up the ID of the snout pilot?
 
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That’s a good idea. I will need to find one that is deep enough. I can’t image the crank being bent so severely that it is causing interference 1” in. That is most likely my mind going to the worst possible outcome here.
 

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80FoxCoupe

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That’s a good idea. I will need to find one that is deep enough. I can’t image the crank being bent so severely that it is causing interference 1” in. That is most likely my mind going to the worst possible outcome here.
Harbor freight

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Perfect. Yes, I just ordered something very similar online. Thank you.
 
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Have you experienced the bolt hanging up before as I am experiencing?
 
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Update. I worked the crank with multiple sanding rolls to no avail. Eventually, I began taking material off the kinetic bolt to the point where it wasn't much bigger than the stock procharger bolt. After putting a dial indicator on the crank, it was showing .0015 of run out. Once I put the procharger crank support on, it shrank to .005. We tested all the parts on my friends mustang which took some work; however, we wanted to verify his run out which was significantly less. Long story short, decided to order a ford short block as I believe I was close to a potential snout breaking. I certainly could have buttoned it up with the new balancer and crank support but who knows how long that bearing would have last or the crank before breaking and ruining the entire motor. Long story short, ordered the f150 SB (same thing) and transferred everything over. The new Kinetic stud slid in perfectly on the new crank. Back together today and running great. 45 miles on it at this point and breaking it in. Frustrating couple of months to say the least.
 

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Wow man. Glad to got it identified and solved.
 
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Wow man. Glad to got it identified and solved.
Thank you. All things considered, I feel pretty fortunate to have caught it before catastrophic failure.
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