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CV Fabrication Resonator Delete / Y Pipe

FreePenguin

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It will work with any axleback.

the piece between axleback and y pipe is the same. Assuming you cut in the right places, the pipes between resonator/y pipe and axleback will align perfectly.

you can get roush y pipe from Levittown motorcycles for212 tax free shipped

I know because I bought one awhile back.

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Dave TBG

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Jason,
I am almost ready to purchase the 3” catless DP from your company, just a couples questions about the Y-Pipe. I’m curious if you will offer It in a 3” input reduced down to 2.5” dual output,?
I want to keep as little restrictions in the exhaust as possible, and my plan is to purchase the 3” adapter for the DP and then either run the 3” magnaflow 12288 which is a 3” input and dual 2.5” output or try and find a Y-pipe that offers the same setup. Please let us know when it may be available for purchase. Also very interested on when your race Intercooler will be available..thank you very much for your time.
Dropped you a PM!
2 years later, but I'm wondering the same thing. I'm looking at CVF catted DP and I'd prefer to go straight to the Y in 3" pipe. Probably keep the stock mufflers for a little while.
 

Bedwelljp

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I recently installed a CV Fabrication Y Pipe / Resonator Delete as a tester and I have to say I am 100% Satisfied and would def recommend this product!

First off, the quality of the welds on this thing is top notch. They cut the Y portion of the pipe very long, so the exhaust should flow almost equally between the 2 pipes. All stainless steel of course, which gives it that Shiny New out of the box look ;)

Installation is about as easy as it gets with regards to installing such a mod. Both ends of the pipe are sized perfectly, with the single side that connects to the downpipe sliding right into place using the stock exhaust clamp, and the Y end has a decent split which allows your stock piping to slide into their pipe for easy clamping.

There is NO drone on this product, i can assure you that. After using it for a few weeks at highway and city speeds, you cant really tell its even there. There is some "throatiness" added to the stock exhaust sound (I only cut my resonator out, stock exhaust before and after). Its not "too loud" and def not "ricey" or whiney sounding like ive heard with other exhaust mods on the ecoboost. If you want something subtle with a def HP increase, this is the way to go. Their Price point is also Way lower than anything else out there, nearly cut in half, so you cant beat that!

I think it took about a week for the car to "learn" the new exhaust (I'd say common these days with nearly any bolt on mod). The car def pulls a bit harder in the lower gears.

Some advice / comments on the install:

install is as expected, cut your stock resonator out, slap the y pipe on. 2 cuts, 2 new clamps.

I used Ramps and a jack to really be able to get under the car. If you have access to a lift, or want to take it to a muffler shop youll def save yourself some time, but that can be said about nearly any install under any car right.

Be sure to cut your stock exhaust LONGER than the Y pipe, as the stock exhaust slides INTO the CV Fab Y pipe. Youll have plenty of tolerance with this method (you can always cut more off). Measure the Y pipe, and go an 2 inches at least before the slits. This will allow you to move your stock mufflers in / out a bit to make sure they are Straight after install (be sure to check this before you really clamp everything down and lower the car).

also, because of their "slip into" design, you dont need super straight cuts (somewhat difficult with a sawzaw laying under the car btw). if you end up with a goofy cut or jagged edges, dont worry about it; it wont matter.

Youll also be dropping several lbs by losing the stock resonator. that B*tch is heavy lol. and fwiw, so is the stock exhaust; I def recommend having a buddy under there with you, or an extra jack or something to hold all the exhaust in place during install; takes a bit of muscle to keep it all straight when tightening up those clamps.

all in all, I am quite happy with the upgrade :) Ill be posting a video or 2 from both outside and inside the car to show you there is no drone and a bit more sound outside the car. I think the digital sound piping (whatever you want to call it) also handles the mod just fine since the change is fairly minor.

If all goes well, install should be 2 hours or less, depending on your tools and experience with this stuff.

The staff at CV Fab were excellent and patient with me on this, and the products are top notch. Go CV Fab!
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I would agree with all you have said on your comprehensive review, as I did this on my EB. One warning I would point out, as it happend to me. The clamps I was given were incorrect, (straight) and would not tighten down one side of the exhaust. This was because one pipe fits inside the other, hence the clamp has to be a step down type. In other words one side is larger than the other. The company were brilliant though and replaced with the correct ones. Well worth the effort and money.
 

cvf-jason

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I would agree with all you have said on your comprehensive review, as I did this on my EB. One warning I would point out, as it happend to me. The clamps I was given were incorrect, (straight) and would not tighten down one side of the exhaust. This was because one pipe fits inside the other, hence the clamp has to be a step down type. In other words one side is larger than the other. The company were brilliant though and replaced with the correct ones. Well worth the effort and money.
Apologies for this. This was a hang-up with the first batch where the wrong clamps went out - we've since updated the packing list so it should be good to go!
 

cvf-jason

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2 years later, but I'm wondering the same thing. I'm looking at CVF catted DP and I'd prefer to go straight to the Y in 3" pipe. Probably keep the stock mufflers for a little while.
The y-pipe is 2.5" and connects from the downpipe via a 2.25" band clamp (that is under the car now).

Our downpipe is 3" but connects to the y-pipe via the same sized reducer adapter on the other side (3" to 2.25 adapter). Since this post we have introduced a 3" to 3" adapter, but you would need custom work to create a bridge between the 3" to 3" adapter and 2.5" y-pipe.

If there's any confusion feel free to give me a shout via PM and have a happy 4th you animals!
 

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Dave TBG

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The y-pipe is 2.5" and connects from the downpipe via a 2.25" band clamp (that is under the car now).

Our downpipe is 3" but connects to the y-pipe via the same sized reducer adapter on the other side (3" to 2.25 adapter). Since this post we have introduced a 3" to 3" adapter, but you would need custom work to create a bridge between the 3" to 3" adapter and 2.5" y-pipe.

If there's any confusion feel free to give me a shout via PM and have a happy 4th you animals!
Thanks for the reply. Any chance you'll be releasing a Y pipe that connects directly to the 3" adapter soon? It seems pointless to connect a 3" downpipe to a 2.5" Y with a 2.25" connection. Maybe a Y pipe that attaches directly to the DP, instead of needing the adapter so it's essentially 2 current products turned into 1 new one.
Edited to add:
Here's my thinking. Your DP gets great reviews and is the best bang for the buck so I'm on your site, but I also want the next step, a resonator delete. The choices are ,1)use the 3"-2.25" adapter and have a bottleneck, or 2), add the 3"-3" adapter to the cart and pay someone to make them work together, or 3)see what's available elsewhere. I can't be the only one thinking this.
 
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cvf-jason

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Thanks for the reply. Any chance you'll be releasing a Y pipe that connects directly to the 3" adapter soon? It seems pointless to connect a 3" downpipe to a 2.5" Y with a 2.25" connection. Maybe a Y pipe that attaches directly to the DP, instead of needing the adapter so it's essentially 2 current products turned into 1 new one.
Edited to add:
Here's my thinking. Your DP gets great reviews and is the best bang for the buck so I'm on your site, but I also want the next step, a resonator delete. The choices are ,1)use the 3"-2.25" adapter and have a bottleneck, or 2), add the 3"-3" adapter to the cart and pay someone to make them work together, or 3)see what's available elsewhere. I can't be the only one thinking this.
No worries - it's what we're here for! Sorry for the delay as I was out of commission yesterday.

Option 2 is your best bet. In regards to option 3, the only option I've seen that's 3" from y-pipe down is something like the MBRP cat back that comes with a 3" y-pipe but uses the reducer between the downpipe and y-pipe. Maybe if someone else knows they can chime in on a different kit out there.
 

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No worries - it's what we're here for! Sorry for the delay as I was out of commission yesterday.

Option 2 is your best bet. In regards to option 3, the only option I've seen that's 3" from y-pipe down is something like the MBRP cat back that comes with a 3" y-pipe but uses the reducer between the downpipe and y-pipe. Maybe if someone else knows they can chime in on a different kit out there.
Was very interested in this y pipe will it fit onto a flowmaster outlaw axle back system with clamps? Will this have to be welded on? How much do welds cost?
 

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When I installed the CVF downpipe to my 2018, I elected to mate it to the MBRP 3" catback exhaust. I used the CVF 3" to 3" adapter, purchased a V-Band clamp, and welded it in as the mating point between the adapter and the MBRP exhaust. Ran that setup for almost 3 years before I traded the car for my 2022. Will probably do something similar on this car, but now I have Active Exhaust in the mix to complicate the upgrade.
 

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Was very interested in this y pipe will it fit onto a flowmaster outlaw axle back system with clamps? Will this have to be welded on? How much do welds cost?
With clamps it's a tough question, but I'd lean towards no (to be safe). It looks like the Flowmaster is cut and slip as is our y-pipe, so you're going to have to cut and slip there as well.

Welds depend on the market around you, so I'd call an exhaust shop and ask. If you show them both parts they can give you a quote and the job shouldn't be too tough for a welder who knows what they're doing.
 

Dave TBG

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i had to re-read this old thread to see if there was a newer version out yet. I've had the catted downpipe for a year and a half and it's still in the box. I haven't given up hope that there will be a second version of the Y-pipe that is necked up to fit the 3" to 3" adapter instead of necked down for the 3" to 2.25" adapter.
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