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04mazdaspeed

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Mike
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Msrp is still your best bet minus any incentives if any for a "on the lot" car. If you dont mind waiting, Id order with granger. I paid almost 8k under msrp for mine with them. Best experience ive ever had at a dealership. Drove it the 300 miles home. They didnt collect IL taxes and cant remember why but not a big deal. Just paid them when i registered the car.
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traxiii

Mustang is my middle name
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Ha, I was wondering how you mention "DMV" and not something else, and I use 6% as an example and I see that you're in Michigan. I was born and raised there, left at 18 for the Military, and retired in Tennessee. Anyway...

Not sure what you mean about insurance. As normal? Well, yes. I personally have Geico on my other cars after switching from USAA, though for the Mustang I went through Hagerty, even though they're double the price, the coverage from them is incredible and makes me sleep better at night knowing if I have an issue with this thing, I can deal with them instead of some random at Geico - been there done that. Plus, Hagerty insures for full replacement value and other little perks that are worth it to me.

I've never been aware of a dealer selling a car and letting you leave without showing them proof of insurance. That being said, me buying out of state and not physically leaving in the vehicle, my dealer didn't require it. I have it, but they didn't ask. If you are going through the motions to buy a vehicle, you certainly have the VIN, do an online quote through your preferred insurance company and have it ready to go so when the deal is done, call 'em up and tell them what day to start the coverage.

EDIT: Be sure to ask about GAP coverage to cover yourself, be sure your selected coverage is sufficient for your loan issuer, and all that. Normally, a standard 100/300/100 policy, (which translates into $100,000 coverage per person for bodily injury, including death, that you cause to others; $300,000 in bodily injury per accident; and property damage up to $100,000) is more than enough for most lenders. YMMV.
Just a couple of things on buying out of state.
The dealer will tape a temporary registration to your back window, that is good until you get the transfer registration from the state of purchase's DMV. We drove with that for over two weeks before the rest of the paperwork came in the mail. The transfer registration is usually good for 30 days from when it is issued.

In CA you need to get a smog check, then go to the DMV and get the VIN checked before you get in line to register in your state.

Then you pay tax and license and get your plates.

Note: depending on your lender, you can include tax and license in the amount financed. Not a great idea, but an option. If you do, the dealer will forward you that amount in a check after your lender wires them the money. FYI: Your tax and license are based on the actual purchase price of the car, not any accessories like PPF, extended warranties etc.
 

JPJr

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With my 2nd order arriving at Chapman soon, I thought about flipping mine.
On my $68k Mach, givemethevin and Vroom only offered in the mid $50s.
Big change from last year where they were offering me thousands more than MSRP for the Rubicons I had only recently purchased.
 

shogun32

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With my 2nd order arriving at Chapman soon, I thought about flipping mine.
On my $68k Mach, givemethevin and Vroom only offered in the mid $50s.
Big change from last year where they were offering me thousands more than MSRP for the Rubicons I had only recently purchased.
Try Auto Lenders Go.
 

TEAsGrabber

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Right now with interest rates climbing....my suggestion is to get multiple deals working with different dealers. Spend the time sharing offers received between them. I've been doing it for 3 months and finally settled on a deal below MSRP. I mainly focused on dealers that had stock or had in transit orders coming that were in the northern states. They all know that a really cold winter(moneywise) is approaching and do NOT want a summertime race/sports car sitting on their lot. Happy hunting!!
 

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swoop1156

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They all know that a really cold winter(moneywise) is approaching and do NOT want a summertime race/sports car sitting on their lot. Happy hunting!!
I feel that this is exactly how I nailed my deal in Wisconsin at MSRP.
 

DadzMach

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I ordered mine the middle of October. On November 3rd I received my email from Ford saying I had a build date and a VIN number. The car should be here end of November or start of December. I however did not get HPP because I was told my order wouldn’t get pulled. I also had most of the needed parts from Steeda to make my own kit. Ordered the front and rear spoiler from the Dealer.

Good luck to everyone!
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