Coyote Longevity Prospects

[MAGS1]

1969-1970 best body style. 1967-1968 second. S550 third best. I luckily own two of the three.

I like your list. For me, flip ‘67/68 and ‘69/70. Then S550 then the later years of the Fox (‘91-‘93).

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[Deleted member 69033]

True, but the '64-1/2 through '66 Mustangs are the "classic collectibles" so you can actually obtain new body parts and stuff since I read somewhere that someone bought the molds and such from Ford to make replacement parts. I'm not so sure I'd be able to find some of the electronic modules for my 2020 say 25 years from now (not that I'd still be alive) ;-)

I have a 51 Ford and can buy almost anything it needs with ease, brand new. I'd guess this will be a non issue for you....

 

[99Zeus99]

This thread reminds me to go on ebay and buy the set of take off factory seat covers I've been meaning to stash for down the road.

 

[tdstuart]

Tore down my engine with about 110k miles on it. The last 20k owned by me and being beaten on. The engine gave out but wasn't from mechanical failure and was from the tune or mods installed.

The engine looked pretty good. The only concern I saw was that the timing chain tensioners had some decent wear. They may have lasted another 100k miles but they had some very noticeable wear marks where the chain dug a groove.

Other than that bearings and everything else looked great.

A timing chain and timing chain tensioner refresh around 100k would be smart, but other than that I don't see why the engine wouldn't have gone another 100k miles.

 

[gadgtfreek]

^^^ Good to know.

 

[Brokestang]

I have a 51 Ford and can buy almost anything it needs with ease, brand new. I'd guess this will be a non issue for you....

How can you say you have a 51 ford & not put some pictures in there?

 

[Deleted member 69033]

How can you say you have a 51 ford & not put some pictures in there?

Lol, hyg

 

[Brokestang]

Lol, hyg

Very nice!!!!! I've always loved those shoe boxes 49-51. But the 51 is the best imo. My dad had a black 51 custom 2 door when my parents were dating in mid to late 60s. He regrets selling it everyday. Thanks for the pics!!!

 

[Bullitt0819]

Stumbled across this and found it informative:

 

[Falkazor94]

Review of mine. My car is a '18 Gen 3 10 Speed. Got it new. It had the "coyote tick" and the rattling sound at 1.2k-2k rpm, but the car ran great. Never saw a spec of metal in the oil or oil filters. I only used Pennzoil Ultra.

Was stock for the first 30k miles. Went FBO + E85 (dyno 489whp) after that until about 67k miles. Swapped to an ESS G2 kit. Going into it I knew I was going to blow the motor and had already been looking RPG short block. I was running about 13-14psi of boost easily making 850+to the wheel on E85. Motor let go just past 80k miles. The rod on piston #1 let go and went through the block.

All that said. I am in no way surprised/let down/disappointed about it. I am shocked by how long it actually lasted. That motor spun to 8k rpm everyday to and from work its entire life.

 

[Bullitt0819]

What was interesting to me was they noted the full synthetic run in that engine had 'crystallized,' esp. around the rings--lots of sludge, too--and the discolorization on the PCV side (he called it 'PVC,' twice ;)). Apparently, the engine was used for a lot of short trips.

 

[ZenkaiRacer]

I've just started that video and he keeps calling the Boss 302 a coyote...

Edit: Got to the Road Runner comparo screen. Nevermind.

 

[Bulldog9]

What was interesting to me was they noted the full synthetic run in that engine had 'crystallized,' esp. around the rings--lots of sludge, too--and the discolorization on the PCV side (he called it 'PVC,' twice ;)). Apparently, the engine was used for a lot of short trips.

Yeah, they are starting their own 'urban legends' The idea that changing between brands and synthetics not being compatible is laughable at best. Even their comment about synthetics needing to get to operating temps to work was way off. One of the benefits of synthetics is better lubrication and protection when cold. The additive packages in conventional oils have dramatically improved their performance, but they need to be at operating temps to get most benifit.

Looking at those rings and the spun/worn bearings in the motor, it is clear that motor was abused, neglected and who knows what else. What as that crap in the sump? Liiked like string or weeds. likely super extended intervals and lots of short trips. This motor also sat quite a while. Did you see the dirt under the intake manifold?

It was interesting to see how the banks differed from side to side. Likely improper or unbalanced cooling.

Depending on use, I've changed my oil every 5 to 7.5K miles since using synthetics, and the motors are whistle clean. Synthetics are better than conventionals for longevity, cleaning and preventing sludge, but there is only so much an oil can do. My wife had a 2003 BMW wagon when we met, she only changed the oil (at the dealer) when the light told her to. Sometimes was 15K. Lots of short trips and city driving, all Mobil 1 synthetic. At 100K in 2009, the oil light started flickering and lifter clatter. Motor was completely sludged. Dealer wanted 10K for a new motor. I was able to save it, dropped the pan, cleaned out sludge from the screen. It was like jello. I then poured in 50% cheap conventional oil and 50% Kerosene, started and let idle, then sit over night. repeated 3X, then changed again with the same. Then I swapped the Kerosene for Marvel Mystery oil and drove the car 10-15 miles gently again letting cool and then restart.

Second to final fill was with conventional, drove on a couple 60 mile loops. Final fill was OEM spec synthetic. Drove it another 50K miles without issue. Took a week and 5 oil/filter changes. The first drains were back as coal, once finished and put on a 5K interval it was normal.

Being nervous about my 1997 M3 with 5K changes, I dropped the pan and pulled the valve cover to find it was clean as a whistle. Lesson learned. Synthetics may hold viscosity and clean better, but the only way to eliminate contaminates carbon blow by and normal metallic residue is to change the oil.......

Good clean oil changed regularly is most critical.

 

[Bullitt0819]

IIRC (I haven't watched in a few days), they made a point about not driving hard until everything gets warmed-up because of the different rates of expansion of the various metals and alloys, whether using conventional or synthetic. My late father was a former auto shop teacher, factory rep for Ford and restorer and he was adamant about that too.

The one thing I wish my Bullitt had--and it should--is an oil temp gauge. I know you can install one, if you remove the vacuum (I think) gauge, but it's a 'derived' output, not an actual sender and gauge. At the least, I take it easy until the coolant is up to temp. The car does seem noisier until it gets warmed-up as well

 

[MAGS1]

IIRC (I haven't watched in a few days), they made a point about not driving hard until everything gets warmed-up because of the different rates of expansion of the various metals and alloys, whether using conventional or synthetic. My late father was a former auto shop teacher, factory rep for Ford and restorer and he was adamant about that too.

The one thing I wish my Bullitt had--and it should--is an oil temp gauge. I know you can install one, if you remove the vacuum (I think) gauge, but it's a 'derived' output, not an actual sender and gauge. At the least, I take it easy until the coolant is up to temp. The car does seem noisier until it gets warmed-up as well

I’m not sure about the Bullitt, but my GT has oil temp as an option in the dash gauge menu. And 100% agree not to drive it hard until everything is up to normal operating temp.

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