Correct Camber, Caster and Toe numbers

[Golgo69]

Hello,

I'm trying to find some correct numbers for camber, caster and toe.
I have 20x10 275 35zr 20 front
20x11 305 35zr 20 rear
Not lowered.
No track use, only aggressive street (times).

I've seen numbers all over the place, was hoping someone could give me something that's based on what I have above.

Thanks

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[luc]

Hello,

I'm trying to find some correct numbers for camber, caster and toe.
I have 20x10 275 35zr 20 front
20x11 305 35zr 20 rear
Not lowered.
No track use, only aggressive street (times).

I've seen numbers all over the place, was hoping someone could give me something that's based on what I have above.

Thanks

With your tire sizes choice, car is going to understeer even more than the way it came from the factory
So not sure what you’re trying to t accomplish…. Drag racing vs canyon runs ???
Zero toe is best for tire wear
You need as much negative camber in front that you can get. Meaning camber plates because not really adjustable from the factory

 

[Golgo69]

With your tire sizes choice, car is going to understeer even more than the way it came from the factory
So not sure what you’re trying to t accomplish…. Drag racing vs canyon runs ???
Zero toe is best for tire wear
You need as much negative camber in front that you can get. Meaning camber plates because not really adjustable from the factory

I've seen those tire sizes (275 and 305) to be most common for 20 inch rims at either 10 or 11.
For up front how negative are you talking? Above -1.6?
And for toe are you saying zero toe on both sides or are you talking about the total toe?
This is my last alignment with those tire sizes.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I've seen those tire sizes (275 and 305) to be most common for 20 inch rims at either 10 or 11.
For up front how negative are you talking? Above -1.6?
And for toe are you saying zero toe on both sides or are you talking about the total toe?
This is my last alignment with those tire sizes.

Yeah without camber plates, that's fine. Safe and my only very minor gripe is I'd rather have 0 or very slight toe on on the front that toe out, but its so close to zero it really doesn't matter much.

For carving you want camber plates and over 2 degrees of front camber, but that will take camber plates to do it well.

As mentioned, the tire stagger is going to leave you with understeer at the limit, but for most people that's the safest option if you aren't used to a car which can oversteer in a corner on demand. You can't easily dial that out with just an alignment, but more camber would help.

 

[Golgo69]

Yeah without camber plates, that's fine. Safe and my only very minor gripe is I'd rather have 0 or very slight toe on on the front that toe out, but its so close to zero it really doesn't matter much.

For carving you want camber plates and over 2 degrees of front camber, but that will take camber plates to do it well.

As mentioned, the tire stagger is going to leave you with understeer at the limit, but for most people that's the safest option if you aren't used to a car which can oversteer in a corner on demand. You can't easily dial that out with just an alignment, but more camber would help.

ok thanks. One last question (I think ), I’m swapping the current tires out with the same size that’s on there now, would I need to get an alignment again? I had the one that you see here done in November when I got the current tires on, but like I said I’m swapping those out.

 

[NightmareMoon]

ok thanks. One last question (I think ), I’m swapping the current tires out with the same size that’s on there now, would I need to get an alignment again? I had the one that you see here done in November when I got the current tires on, but like I said I’m swapping those out.

Nah not really. Alignment can shift over time but they arent generally sensitive to changing tires.

 

[GTP]

IMO (since there really is no "correct" alignment) your After measurements look really good. I wouldn't change them or worry any further. I also don't recommend camber plates for your use.

You can test that slight rear thrust angle by finding a real flat, smooth, level (no crown) stretch of freeway and see how far you can drive hands-free before the car wanders a bit to one side.

 

[Golgo69]

as usual thanks all for the replies

 

[Golgo69]

It’s always something……is this an issue?

 

[luc]

Yes
Whoever mounted/ dismounted the tire damaged it
Go back to them

 

[Golgo69]

Yes

Lol
Not usable at all?

 

[luc]

Lol
Not usable at all?

I would not. Not only there is a good chance that the tire will not hold pressure but tire has been weakened
And could fail. Not worth it to take that chance
Who did the tire job ?

 

[Golgo69]

I would not. Not only there is a good chance that the tire will not hold pressure but tire has been weakened
And could fail. Not worth it to take that chance
Who did the tire job ?

Local rim and tire shop

 

[luc]

Local rim and tire shop

Well, they own you a tire

 

[sad_demon]

Not sure if this is helpful for OP or a passerby in the future.

I have a set of 20s - Velgen Classic5 V2 -
F 20x10 285/30
R 20x11 315/30

Cars on lowering springs + magne

And I run them at
Front -2.5 Caster 6.9 Toe 0.00
Rear -2.00 Toe In 0.02

Functions very well in the mountains and canyons. But it has a lot of suspension work done, and I would assume driver mod plays a key part.

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