Coolant flush every 3 years?

[2morrow]

Typically change my brake fluid once a year with quality stuff. The stuff that comes out is often nasty.

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[ralph7]

Typically change my brake fluid once a year with quality stuff. The stuff that comes out is often nasty.

After only one year?
Tells me you didn't flush it completely.

 

[2morrow]

After only one year?
Tells me you didn't flush it completely.

No I just drive the piss out of it on track and it becomes brown after multiple heating cycles.

 

[Dana Pants]

After only one year?
Tells me you didn't flush it completely.

I’m gonna guess you have an automatic. For reasons beyond explanation, the shared clutch reservoir destroys brake fluid.


Edit: and for the OP. With the right hose, a drain and fill from the radiator is quite easy to do every few years. Takes not much more time than an oil change.

 

[sk47]

What is the best way to completely flush all old coolant from radiator AND engine block?

I want to swap from 7year old 50/50 coolant to fresh 30/70 ratio yellow motorcraft coolant but kinda worried about leaving any air in the system.

I know about the DIY method of draining radiator, fillilng with distilled water, running engine + heater to get old engine block coolant to mix, then repeat process 3x times until it is all mostly distilled water. During this process occasionally gently squeeze radiator tubes to get any trapped air out.

I don't trust this method and feel like there must be a better and more reliable way to ensure zero air is left in the system.... am I overthinking it?

Hello; First let me say I am not up to date on ford requirements regarding coolant changes. So, check the manuals.
First about zero air. Over the decades I have done coolant changes two ways. One is to find the air bleeds associated with the engine and radiator. Can be done but often is a bothersome experience. Last few decades I simply take a few days to get the job done. After the flush & cleaning of the system I add the new antifreeze coolant & distilled water. Fill the system as much as it will take cold. Then start and let it idle. Keep adding coolant (water or antifreeze) as the air bubbles leave. This eventually gets to a point where the system will no longer hold more.
(NOTE- as this is happening I touch the heater hoses to check they get warm. That way I know the heater core is getting filled.)
I then shut off the engine and let it cool down. If the system has a remote reservoir I make sure it has plenty of coolant so that coolant can be pulled into the engine as it cools. Replace the cap of course.
Then the next day or hours later I remove the cap and add more coolant with the engine running again. Repeat the procedures before. Usually takes three or more episodes to get it done. Eventually when you open the cap it will be full. (on some vehicles you can see the coolant so do not have to open the cap. Mid 2000's GM trucks are that way.)

NEXT - about getting all the old coolant out. Two things to consider. One being most heater cores. The other being pockets in the coolant chambers. If I want to be thorough, I will use some low-pressure air to blow thru the heater hose to blow out the most old coolant.
The other way is to keep flushing the entire system with distilled water (DW) over and over. I usually buy several gallons of distilled water before starting. Drain the old coolant and then add DW till full. Rune the engine till warm then drain. Fill with DW again & run again. Repeat several times then drain & maybe blow out the heater with air. A tell is the color. When the old coolant is flushed out the drained water will be clear.
As long as you used DW you can then add the fresh coolant. I try to use concentrated coolant, not the premixed. That way i can tailor the concentration. There will be DW left in the engine, so I add the concentrate first until the correct amount and then top off with DW if needed.

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