Cobalt Filly Aero Improvements… Thoughts on Fog Light Area?

[CobaltFilly]

After my first track day yesterday, I 100% understand now that I need downforce in the rear. And harnesses. And roll bar. And wheelhop kit (Steeda?). SO much to do...

Sponsored

 

[TeeLew]

Everyone’s info is spectacular.

I will be needing an oil cooler later on if you don’t feel changing to a 170* thermostat will help my heat problem (She can get real hot according to the built-in screen temps, 209* cylinder temp on street sometimes max, and I hit 232* on my third lap during the last autox on a 68* day).

The thermostat doesn't have anything to do with it. You need more cooling on the water and that likely means a bigger rad.

Just saw you're a V6. GT rad and you are done and in the sun. Easiest temp fix of any of us. Lower temps will be more power, across the board. Get the lower thermostat when you get the bigger rad.

 

[CobaltFilly]

The thermostat doesn't have anything to do with it. You need more cooling on the water and that likely means a bigger rad.

Thankfully don't need any cooling modification I believe...did some research (and more forum member info on this engine) and she ran 205-210 degrees during the whole day yesterday on track...maybe a coolant flush and she will hold steady and true for a long time!

 

[TeeLew]

Thankfully don't need any cooling modification I believe...did some research (and more forum member info on this engine) and she ran 205-210 degrees during the whole day yesterday on track...maybe a coolant flush and she will hold steady and true for a long time!

If you run T-Hill or BW in the summer you will.

 

[CobaltFilly]

If you run T-Hill or BW in the summer you will.

Woof rightio

 

[CobaltFilly]

The thermostat doesn't have anything to do with it. You need more cooling on the water and that likely means a bigger rad.

Just saw you're a V6. GT rad and you are done and in the sun. Easiest temp fix of any of us. Lower temps will be more power, across the board. Get the lower thermostat when you get the bigger rad.

Aha...making notes, thank you my friend

 

[CobaltFilly]

@TeeLew Is Mishimotos Racing Thermostat 160F fine? I don't necessarily feel the brand is trustworthy, but would rather ask to be sure. Because this 170* or 160* (two temp versions) one is available for $8: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12966093&cc=3340758&pt=2200&jsn=10994

And am I able to reuse the V6 fans?

Should the rad be for a performance package or non-performance package? Koyorad or TYC or Denso version?

So many questions.

 

[JOKER M1]

I did this to my GT several years ago using the V6 factory delete panels but I just did it for looks. I’m sure there could have been some added benefit

 

[CobaltFilly]

@TeeLew Is Mishimotos Racing Thermostat 160F fine? I don't necessarily feel the brand is trustworthy, but would rather ask to be sure. Because this 170* or 160* (two temp versions) one is available for $8: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12966093&cc=3340758&pt=2200&jsn=10994

And am I able to reuse the V6 fans?

Should the rad be for a performance package or non-performance package? Koyorad or TYC or Denso version?

So many questions.

@TeeLew

Answered some of my own questions: the normal V6 radiator (that I have) from motorcraft is *exactly* the same radiator used in the base model non-PP V8. (MOTORCRAFT RAD125)

So now my question is can I fit a performance package radiator from the V8 into the V6 using the same fans, and if you think that is smart then what brand.

And thermostat question still stands...160 or 170 off rockauto fine?

 

[TeeLew]

I think a 170* from Rock Auto would be fine. You probably want to keep it below 210* on track, IMO, but I'm conservative on engine temp. We need to see the shop manual on the PP rad mounting. I bet it's the same fans and even if it's not, I bet they work. I think it's just a thicker core.

To be fair, just venting the hood would be a big deal. With a little work sealing everything up and getting that air exhausted and you might be just fine with what you have.

 

[CobaltFilly]

I think a 170* from Rock Auto would be fine. You probably want to keep it below 210* on track, IMO, but I'm conservative on engine temp. We need to see the shop manual on the PP rad mounting. I bet it's the same fans and even if it's not, I bet they work. I think it's just a thicker core.

To be fair, just venting the hood would be a big deal. With a little work sealing everything up and getting that air exhausted and you might be just fine with what you have.

100% adding racelouvers to the hood and fenders. perhaps we should start with that and the thermostat ($9 come on thats great! cheapest thing I ever got on this car besides tire valve stem covers for $7 ;-;)

 

[TeeLew]

That's a good first whack at it and not too expensive.

 

[CobaltFilly]

That's a good first whack at it and not too expensive.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12966093&cc=3340758&pt=2200&jsn=937 Easy buy. That and I will start with race louvers like these and add the two sides and four fender ones later on if needed: https://racelouvers.com/mustang-gt-eco-base-15-17-center-hood-louvers-nasa-st-tt3-6-spec/ Might as well go NASA spec in case I join them in HPDE or TT3 later on.

 

[MrMike]

Say you had to keep rain out of your engine bay because you park the poor girl outside each day. You have the full race louvers package. What would you do?

I think this is one of the reasons that the aftermarket GT500 hoods are popular. Many have rain trays that remove easily and already have louvers to help hot air escape.

Answered some of my own questions: the normal V6 radiator (that I have) from motorcraft is *exactly* the same radiator used in the base model non-PP V8. (MOTORCRAFT RAD125)

So now my question is can I fit a performance package radiator from the V8 into the V6 using the same fans, and if you think that is smart then what brand.

I don't see any reason that the PP rad would not fit. I swapped the PP rad into my car, the most annoying thing is lining the AC condenser back up. Take your time and don't force anything.

Best tip I had before hand was to attach a rubber tube to the radiator drain petcock and run it straight into a larger container.

 

[Ewheels]

After my first track day yesterday, I 100% understand now that I need downforce in the rear. And harnesses. And roll bar. And wheelhop kit (Steeda?). SO much to do...

Why do you think you need rear downforce?

I don't know your experience level with driving but based off the questions you're asking, I'm guessing it's minimal (nothing wrong with that). Don't fall victim to the ever-so-common trap of wanting to throw money and parts at your car that you ultimately don't need.
Get some tires, brake pads, and a good alignment and then lots and lots of practice and coaching. You'll slowly learn what the car needs.

PS: no car ever needs downforce. It just enables you to go faster. If the rear-end is getting squirrely, it's likely alignment or the way you're driving the car.

Sponsored