Chassis Stiffening importance...?

[K4fxd]

S550 bump stops - as with some other cars - are part of the overall suspension tune and not just for preventing shock damage.

This

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[GT 550]

Good article here:

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/modp-1104-the-bump-stops-here

Many car manufacturers use the rear bumpstops to add to the main spring rate to support this extra load and maintain a safe handling balance and level ride.
The bumpstop also has a strong effect on transient handling events, such as turning in to a corner and applying throttle or braking in a bend. Imagine having a car nicely balanced in a long turn, then you get on the gas. The car may already be leaning on the outer bumpstops, and applying gas causes weight to transfer to the rear and it squats a little, using that outside rear bumpstop even more. The balance of the car has changed and it starts to drift great! Maybe it doesn’t drift enough, so a longer or stiffer bumpstop could be put in the rear. If it drifts too much, then a shorter or softer one may be required.

 

[shogun32]

The car may already be leaning on the outer bumpstops, and applying gas causes weight to transfer to the rear and it squats a little, using that outside rear bumpstop even more.

except these Ford/Steeda bumpstops are nigh rigid. The Eibach's are positively squishy by comparison. If you're on the bump stop, more weight has no place to go but into the tire sidewall. Which to a point may be fine. But if you exceed the tire's carrying capacity you lose traction.

 

[K4fxd]

The bump stop is another tuning tool.

 

[GT 550]

except these Ford/Steeda bumpstops are nigh rigid. The Eibach's are positively squishy by comparison. If you're on the bump stop, more weight has no place to go but into the tire sidewall. Which to a point may be fine. But if you exceed the tire's carrying capacity you lose traction.

Agree, hence I guess why the article goes on to explain the importance of considering bump stops as an important part of overall susp tuning for the intended purpose. Squishy or rigid doesn't matter as long as it works with everything else noting oems don't always get it right either.

 

[TeeLew]

The bump stop is another tuning tool.

OK, truisms aside, what aspect of the longer bump rubber did you find advantageous?

 

[K4fxd]

OK, truisms aside, what aspect of the longer bump rubber did you find advantageous?

It stopped rolling over on the rear tire.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Try explaining that to my rear bushings please

Otherwise yeah just the front feel more planted and in contact with the road especially when turning and response is better/faster from when you turn the wheel to when it corner but this is also because of more toe out in my alignment.

I'm sure that your car's rear bushings are stiffer in some directions than in others. My guess is that they're stiffest in the vertical compression direction, and get progressively stiffer fairly quickly. I'm not sure about how the 'extension side' of these bushings are detailed, but I wouldn't expect that to be a major NVH path.


Norm

 

[compprep]

Chassis stiffness is analogous to improving the foundation on your house. You might not notice it initially, but it will be obvious over time.

This is why I added the 4 pt Steeda K brace. Plan on keeping the car a LONG time. When it's 15-20 yrs old it "should" be a little tighter feeling than one same age/milage/etc. that didn't have a brace. Fingers crossed for next 2 decades!!!

 

[TeeLew]

This is why I added the 4 pt Steeda K brace. Plan on keeping the car a LONG time. When it's 15-20 yrs old it "should" be a little tighter feeling than one same age/milage/etc. that didn't have a brace. Fingers crossed for next 2 decades!!!

Do you have subframe connectors on your SVO? They were a massive difference on a Fox chassis car.

 

[compprep]

Do you have subframe connectors on your SVO? They were a massive difference on a Fox chassis car.

Yes the 4 point that tie's to the seats and welded, not bolted to the sub frame. Car still feels like crap compared to most ANY new car. Big hole for the hatch deosn't help any either. Don't care as, hey, it's an SVO! I've had it since 6/89! Half my life!!!!!!

 

[bnightstar]

I'm sure that your car's rear bushings are stiffer in some directions than in others. My guess is that they're stiffest in the vertical compression direction, and get progressively stiffer fairly quickly. I'm not sure about how the 'extension side' of these bushings are detailed, but I wouldn't expect that to be a major NVH path.


Norm

They are ungloing from the rear bar because of the difference in the body roll front to rear. When you put not OEM front bar but you keep the rear bar the bushings in the rear start to brake which lead to annoying sound over bumps. I replaced my bushings once looks like I will be replacing them more times. This is why I'm saying that even if I can't feel the difference in body roll between front and rear of the car is clearly there as it's causing the bushings to brake.

 

[Norm Peterson]

They are ungloing from the rear bar because of the difference in the body roll front to rear. When you put not OEM front bar but you keep the rear bar the bushings in the rear start to brake which lead to annoying sound over bumps. I replaced my bushings once looks like I will be replacing them more times. This is why I'm saying that even if I can't feel the difference in body roll between front and rear of the car is clearly there as it's causing the bushings to brake.

That's a bushing durability issue rather than a chassis stiffness matter. When you're breaking or tearing the bushings, you're trying to turn the connection from something relatively solid to a hinge with lower stiffness and increasing the amount of relative movement. Eventually the joint comes up solid but you're going to hear and feel it when it does.

I would think that more front bar would make life easier for those rear bushings rather than harder. But if that lets you drive a lot harder, maybe that's the bigger effect . . .


Norm

 

[Andrew@Lethal]

If the car is going to be a daily driver. I would opt for an upper control tower brace and a stop the hop kit. Here are some options for you.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...ension-2/2015-mustang-gt-strut-tower-braces-1

https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...oost/suspension-2/irs-subframe-bracing-kits-1

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