K4fxd
Well-Known Member
ThisS550 bump stops - as with some other cars - are part of the overall suspension tune and not just for preventing shock damage.
Sponsored
ThisS550 bump stops - as with some other cars - are part of the overall suspension tune and not just for preventing shock damage.
except these Ford/Steeda bumpstops are nigh rigid. The Eibach's are positively squishy by comparison. If you're on the bump stop, more weight has no place to go but into the tire sidewall. Which to a point may be fine. But if you exceed the tire's carrying capacity you lose traction.The car may already be leaning on the outer bumpstops, and applying gas causes weight to transfer to the rear and it squats a little, using that outside rear bumpstop even more.
Agree, hence I guess why the article goes on to explain the importance of considering bump stops as an important part of overall susp tuning for the intended purpose. Squishy or rigid doesn't matter as long as it works with everything else noting oems don't always get it right either.except these Ford/Steeda bumpstops are nigh rigid. The Eibach's are positively squishy by comparison. If you're on the bump stop, more weight has no place to go but into the tire sidewall. Which to a point may be fine. But if you exceed the tire's carrying capacity you lose traction.
OK, truisms aside, what aspect of the longer bump rubber did you find advantageous?The bump stop is another tuning tool.
It stopped rolling over on the rear tire.OK, truisms aside, what aspect of the longer bump rubber did you find advantageous?
I'm sure that your car's rear bushings are stiffer in some directions than in others. My guess is that they're stiffest in the vertical compression direction, and get progressively stiffer fairly quickly. I'm not sure about how the 'extension side' of these bushings are detailed, but I wouldn't expect that to be a major NVH path.Try explaining that to my rear bushings please
Otherwise yeah just the front feel more planted and in contact with the road especially when turning and response is better/faster from when you turn the wheel to when it corner but this is also because of more toe out in my alignment.
This is why I added the 4 pt Steeda K brace. Plan on keeping the car a LONG time. When it's 15-20 yrs old it "should" be a little tighter feeling than one same age/milage/etc. that didn't have a brace. Fingers crossed for next 2 decades!!!Chassis stiffness is analogous to improving the foundation on your house. You might not notice it initially, but it will be obvious over time.
Do you have subframe connectors on your SVO? They were a massive difference on a Fox chassis car.This is why I added the 4 pt Steeda K brace. Plan on keeping the car a LONG time. When it's 15-20 yrs old it "should" be a little tighter feeling than one same age/milage/etc. that didn't have a brace. Fingers crossed for next 2 decades!!!
Yes the 4 point that tie's to the seats and welded, not bolted to the sub frame. Car still feels like crap compared to most ANY new car. Big hole for the hatch deosn't help any either. Don't care as, hey, it's an SVO! I've had it since 6/89! Half my life!!!!!!Do you have subframe connectors on your SVO? They were a massive difference on a Fox chassis car.
They are ungloing from the rear bar because of the difference in the body roll front to rear. When you put not OEM front bar but you keep the rear bar the bushings in the rear start to brake which lead to annoying sound over bumps. I replaced my bushings once looks like I will be replacing them more times. This is why I'm saying that even if I can't feel the difference in body roll between front and rear of the car is clearly there as it's causing the bushings to brake.I'm sure that your car's rear bushings are stiffer in some directions than in others. My guess is that they're stiffest in the vertical compression direction, and get progressively stiffer fairly quickly. I'm not sure about how the 'extension side' of these bushings are detailed, but I wouldn't expect that to be a major NVH path.
Norm
That's a bushing durability issue rather than a chassis stiffness matter. When you're breaking or tearing the bushings, you're trying to turn the connection from something relatively solid to a hinge with lower stiffness and increasing the amount of relative movement. Eventually the joint comes up solid but you're going to hear and feel it when it does.They are ungloing from the rear bar because of the difference in the body roll front to rear. When you put not OEM front bar but you keep the rear bar the bushings in the rear start to brake which lead to annoying sound over bumps. I replaced my bushings once looks like I will be replacing them more times. This is why I'm saying that even if I can't feel the difference in body roll between front and rear of the car is clearly there as it's causing the bushings to brake.