Changing Suspension from Base to Performance Pack

[drbrian722]

I’ve got a 2015 GT standard setup with no performance pack. In spirited driving, I can find the limit of the 235/50R18 all-season Pirellis fairly quick. I added the Ford Racing strut tower brace (and the included “c brace”) and that tightened things up but the underlying issue of the tires was too hard to ignore.

A few weeks ago I acquired a take-off set of staggered performance pack wheels and tires that I believe will work fine for my needs. However, I was told that I should upgrade the suspension to handle the staggered setup of the wheels. I don’t have a ton of money to throw at the car, so I’m looking at take off performance pack setups which run $400-$550 for shocks/springs/bars/links/mounts/bushings which is in budget, but I can’t help but wonder if I’d be better putting that money into a different setup.

So. My questions are; do I need to upgrade the suspension for the staggered setup? And, Is the performance pack suspension, complete for $500 worth it?

Thanks!

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[Rebellion]

I’ve got a 2015 GT standard setup with no performance pack. In spirited driving, I can find the limit of the 235/50R18 all-season Pirellis fairly quick. I added the Ford Racing strut tower brace (and the included “c brace”) and that tightened things up but the underlying issue of the tires was too hard to ignore.

A few weeks ago I acquired a take-off set of staggered performance pack wheels and tires that I believe will work fine for my needs. However, I was told that I should upgrade the suspension to handle the staggered setup of the wheels. I don’t have a ton of money to throw at the car, so I’m looking at take off performance pack setups which run $400-$550 for shocks/springs/bars/links/mounts/bushings which is in budget, but I can’t help but wonder if I’d be better putting that money into a different setup.

So. My questions are; do I need to upgrade the suspension for the staggered setup? And, Is the performance pack suspension, complete for $500 worth it?

Thanks!

Nope, you don't need to upgrade suspension just to use the staggered PP wheels.

The decision whether to upgrade suspension or not, it depends on your priorities and goals. I'd just put those wheels on and drive around for a few days...try to notice what aspects of the car you don't like, and then upgrade or add mods to address those aspects.

 

[BmacIL]

I’ve got a 2015 GT standard setup with no performance pack. In spirited driving, I can find the limit of the 235/50R18 all-season Pirellis fairly quick. I added the Ford Racing strut tower brace (and the included “c brace”) and that tightened things up but the underlying issue of the tires was too hard to ignore.

A few weeks ago I acquired a take-off set of staggered performance pack wheels and tires that I believe will work fine for my needs. However, I was told that I should upgrade the suspension to handle the staggered setup of the wheels. I don’t have a ton of money to throw at the car, so I’m looking at take off performance pack setups which run $400-$550 for shocks/springs/bars/links/mounts/bushings which is in budget, but I can’t help but wonder if I’d be better putting that money into a different setup.

So. My questions are; do I need to upgrade the suspension for the staggered setup? And, Is the performance pack suspension, complete for $500 worth it?

Thanks!

I've started from the same point. Here's what I recommend now that you have some good tires and you do not want to lower the car:

Cradle Lockout Kit (CB005) - $200
Low-mile Take-off PP shocks and struts - ~$200-250
PP rear sway bar and bushings - $45
Take-off PP springs - $50-100
Steeda billet upper shock mount - $200

I actually have NIB PP front struts and a full set of PP springs that I wouldn't mind getting rid of cheap. PM me if interested. I did not include the front bar as the bar itself is identical to the non-PP, but it has different bushings and brackets. If you're looking to save some bucks this is a good place to do so.

 

[BMR Tech]

I agree with [MENTION=10281]BmacIL[/MENTION] with the above post.

I currently daily drive a 2016 PP with just a few IRS goodies and on both the staggered wheel and tire set-up AND my newer 275 square set-up, the car really is awesome.

It does well daily, on the road course and even the drag strip!

 

[keltymd]

too bad your not closer. I took most my PP stuff off at about 80 miles and its all sitting on a shelf

 

[NightmareMoon]

I’ve got a 2015 GT standard setup with no performance pack. In spirited driving, I can find the limit of the 235/50R18 all-season Pirellis fairly quick. I added the Ford Racing strut tower brace (and the included “c brace”) and that tightened things up but the underlying issue of the tires was too hard to ignore.

A few weeks ago I acquired a take-off set of staggered performance pack wheels and tires that I believe will work fine for my needs. However, I was told that I should upgrade the suspension to handle the staggered setup of the wheels. I don’t have a ton of money to throw at the car, so I’m looking at take off performance pack setups which run $400-$550 for shocks/springs/bars/links/mounts/bushings which is in budget, but I can’t help but wonder if I’d be better putting that money into a different setup.

So. My questions are; do I need to upgrade the suspension for the staggered setup? And, Is the performance pack suspension, complete for $500 worth it?

Thanks!

You absolutely don't need to upgrade anything to take advantage of your new staggered wheels/tires.

First let me say I love upgraded suspension toys. Love love love... BUT Unless the car is not meeting your own personal expectations or needs, why throw good money at it?

Tire make the biggest difference in handling, and you've just upgraded those. Excellent decision sir, no need to immediately go do anything else.

Now, a few months from now, if you notice something you want to change, then sure, but there is something to be said for only changing one ... thing ... at ... a ... time.

You see, guys that change a whole mess of stuff at once don't really know which parts made an improvement, and which parts were money wasted or worse.

 

[BmacIL]

You absolutely don't need to upgrade anything to take advantage of your new staggered wheels/tires.

First let me say I love upgraded suspension toys. Love love love... BUT Unless the car is not meeting your own personal expectations or needs, why throw good money at it?

Tire make the biggest difference in handling, and you've just upgraded those. Excellent decision sir, no need to immediately go do anything else.

Now, a few months from now, if you notice something you want to change, then sure, but there is something to be said for only changing one ... thing ... at ... a ... time.

You see, guys that change a whole mess of stuff at once don't really know which parts made an improvement, and which parts were money wasted or worse.

Definitely whole-heartedly agree with this. The one exception is I would do front and rear springs and/or dampers together. The base, non-PP car is really lacking in control and taughtness, so upgrading to OE options here is a good plan. Things like the lockout kit are, IMO, essential for making the car drive as it should. The rear damper mounts are becoming known to be something that allows you to go deeper into mods to improve handling without as much harshness or uncontrolled body movements and oscillations. Based on many user's feedback (and my own soon, hopefully this weekend), I believe that mod will kill the "bounce" that we've come to know on this platform.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Well ya, you definitely do springs and shocks as a unit. You also dont install a turbo kit one part at a time.

I will say I have plenty of fun driving around without the extra subframe braces, shock mounts, etc. If you do, go from biggest bang to smallest, so: Tires, a good alignment, shocks (maybe springs), probably swaybars, then subframe braces and other replacement bits, in that order.

I wouldnt spend money to fix wheel hop or rear end bounce without addressing the shocks first, since they directly help both those issues. The rear mounts are easy to swap. I'd only do those if you've replaced the shocks already and still arent happy.

 

[BmacIL]

Well ya, you definitely do springs and shocks as a unit. You also dont install a turbo kit one part at a time.

I will say I have plenty of fun driving around without the extra subframe braces, shock mounts, etc. If you do, go from biggest bang to smallest, so: Tires, a good alignment, shocks (maybe springs), probably swaybars, then subframe braces and other replacement bits, in that order.

I wouldnt spend money to fix wheel hop or rear end bounce without addressing the shocks first, since they directly help both those issues. The rear mounts are easy to swap. I'd only do those if you've replaced the shocks already and still arent happy.

Oh, no doubt the PP car is plenty of fun without it all. The lockout, mounts and things like the LCA/toe bearings just make the car a lot more of a scalpel than it feels stock. Done right you can do these with very minimal NVH, but it's always a risk when you take rubber compliance out of the system.

 

[drbrian722]

Thank you all for the advice, I’m going to wait until I get the wheels and tires mounted up before making any other changes to the car.

 

[keltymd]

Thank you all for the advice, I’m going to wait until I get the wheels and tires mounted up before making any other changes to the car.

that is the best idea. I would do that and get accustom to to the handling then do shocks/struts/springs if you are going with PP stuff and move on from there.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

skip PP suspension and get aftermarket. Aftermarket is still a large upgrade over PP, unless you get hte PP parts for dirt cheap

square tire setup and better tires will go a long way before getting suspension

 

[terryz]

I have the nonPP GT, and I started with suspension first before wheels/tires.

I agree with going aftermarket, don't need to settle with PP parts unless too cheap to pass.

 

[Monopoly]

I'm in the exact same boat. Haven't tried my PP rims/tires yet car is still in storage. The base GT setup feels less sporty than my dads Fusion sport. It's way too soft.

I want the best street setup possible. Willing to spend a little more. I love stiff rides with the least amount of body roll.

 

[Shouldhavegotthegt]

I have the nonPP GT, and I started with suspension first before wheels/tires.

I agree with going aftermarket, don't need to settle with PP parts unless too cheap to pass.

Aftermarket is the way to go unless someone is giving it away.

I went with Steeda progressives and get the stock shocks and struts. Added the Steeda subframe alignment and bushings. Cost about $400 for everything. Rides and handles great. Looks 1000x better than stock.

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