Caster difference from L/R

[Albertcado]

Just got an alignment and everything looks good except for the caster difference from left and right that I'm stumped about. The suspension is completely stock and here's the specs after alignment:

Left caster is 7.3
Right caster is 6.6

Front Toe 0
Rear Toe. 0.13 both sides
Rear Cambers: -1.5

Is that caster difference from L/R anything to be concerned about? I know I'm stuck with it since that's from the factory, but from other s550 alignment sheets I've seen their casters are usually both in the low 7 range.

Is this something I need to fix (If even possible) or will it have no negative effects on the way the car drives?

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[Bluemustang]

No nothing to be concerned about. This can happen due to factory tolerance, just how the car was built. Mine was the same way. Due to the difference in caster left to right, the car will turn slightly differently one way vs. the other. If you want to correct it, you can easily do so with caster-camber plates. I usually recommend them because if you begin modding the suspension, you will need it at some point and it also helps you dial in more precise alignment specs as you add more parts. I am also a believer in a dialed in alignment as making a big difference.

In addition, I highly recommend plates over camber bolts and I have used both. After learning how it works I'd never use bolts on my car again. I wouldn't trust them on my car. Plates are a much more solid and safer way to make alignment adjustments.

 

[NightmareMoon]

How much do you trust your alignment place?

 

[Albertcado]

No nothing to be concerned about. This can happen due to factory tolerance, just how the car was built. Mine was the same way. Due to the difference in caster left to right, the car will turn slightly differently one way vs. the other. If you want to correct it, you can easily do so with caster-camber plates. I usually recommend them because if you begin modding the suspension, you will need it at some point and it also helps you dial in more precise alignment specs as you add more parts. I am also a believer in a dialed in alignment as making a big difference.

In addition, I highly recommend plates over camber bolts and I have used both. After learning how it works I'd never use bolts on my car again. I wouldn't trust them on my car. Plates are a much more solid and safer way to make alignment adjustments.

Thanks for the input, I agree it's just factory tolerance or how the front subframe was lined up from factory. The car drives great after the alignment and it's on stock ride height. It's not like I can feel the caster difference, it drives straight. DO you think it's not worth getting plates to adjust the difference since I won't be lowering it?

 

[Bluemustang]

Thanks for the input, I agree it's just factory tolerance or how the front subframe was lined up from factory. The car drives great after the alignment and it's on stock ride height. It's not like I can feel the caster difference, it drives straight. DO you think it's not worth getting plates to adjust the difference since I won't be lowering it?

I wouldn't bother. If you later decide to add lowering springs, shocks, etc. I would do CC plates at that point.

 

[TeeLew]

It's not like I can feel the caster difference, it drives straight.

If you do feel it, it will be a small pull to the right (low caster side).

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