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Can I Just Replace the Front Springs on My Mustang GT?

Edgemere

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Greetings,

I have made several posts on upgrading the base suspension for my 2022 Mustang GT Premium, and with all of your help, I have purchased all my suspension upgrade parts for a Spring install.

But I do have one question. Could you just upgrade the front springs only to your Mustang GT base front struts, and leave the rear as is? By doing this you would not need to purchase new struts and shocks. My choice would be BMR's SP089 170 lbs front springs. The base front springs are 160 lbs. Could the base front struts handle the 170lbs springs?

Has anyone done this? What are your thoughts.

Thanks
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rxryanm

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I have purchased all my suspension upgrade parts for a Spring install.
Kinda late to be asking more questions then, isn't it? 🤷‍♂️ lol

I have made several posts
Most people, if the topic is generally the same and it's their own thread, will just ask f/u questions in there so everyone can see what others have said/what you're wanting.

In my opinion, a spring that is not going to give you any perceptible increase in stiffness or lowering is a waste. As is installing one that is designed for boosted S550s, not N/A. But it's ultimately your money, so you do with it what you feel led.
 

Cordero1

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So what you are asking is if you can just replace the springs but not the struts? I run aftermarket springs with stock struts/shocks. Can you do just the front? Yes why not. Can you grab a paint can & tag your car all over? Sure it is your car. You could do as you like. Would you get any benefits from just upgrading front springs but not the rear? Probably not as much since the whole point is to get a better over all stance, stiffness, &/or weight transfer when racing.
 

KingKona

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Could you just upgrade the front springs only to your Mustang GT base front struts, and leave the rear as is? By doing this you would not need to purchase new struts and shocks.
You understand that shocks and struts provide both rebound AND compression resistance, right? Therefore, you'd be better off skipping the springs completely and doing the shocks and struts only.

By doing only the front springs, you would only increase compression resistance in the front suspension.

By replacing only all 4 shocks and struts, you would increase both compression and rebound/damping at all 4 corners. That is the much, much better answer.

ETA; Please....for the love of all that is good and holy.....buy the Steeda Pro Action Adjustable shocks.

Your hear me????

The ADJUSTABLE shocks. FOR ALL 4 FREAKIN' CORNERS!!!!

And be done with it. End this madness.

ETA2; And of all your obsession........all the other suspension parts you've bought, or thought of buying, considered buying, or started 358 threads asking again and again if you should buy.......

NOTHING will make as big of a difference to the ride and handling of your car as your shocks & struts. Do NOT try to be cheap or save money on them. You could skip/return all the other suspension parts, only do the Steeda Pro Action Freakin' Adjustables, and it would be the best and biggest bang for your buck. Everything else pales in comparison.

And your ride will not only be firmer and more controlled, but smoother. Yes, smoother.
 
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GrabberBargeCaptain

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Why?

edit: so it's just to save money? But you've already purchased your components? I'm confused.

If you're not gonna upgrade your dampers at the same time, absolutely do not install just lowering springs.. with all the posts you've made i'm just confused as to what your thought process is and what you actually want to improve on your car, if anything, or if you just want to change something for the heck of it. And no matter what anyone advises you, you post another random thread in the following few days asking if you should do something, despite the large amount of good advice you've already received... again just confused as to what it is you actually want. I know decision paralysis is a thing but goddamn!
 
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Vicr

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I think it's at the point where the OP feels if he asks enough questions he'll finally get the answer he wants to hear. Unfortunately for him not on this forum.
 

thunderstrike

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Ideally the spring should match the struts, paired, but you can just replace the springs. For me, I did the opposite -- I replaced OEM struts and shocks with Bilstein, right after having purchased a GT. It's more firmer, less bouncy.
 
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Edgemere

Edgemere

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Sorry, if I hit a nerve. I have taken the advice of many of you on this form, and in my garage I have about $2,500 worth of Steeda, BMR and Ford Performance parts in my garage for a planned Spring install that I can no longer afford to do. I will probably either sell the parts or try and return them. I may even need to sell my car, but that will be the last thing I do.

Unfortunately for me I was diagnosed with Chronic inflammatory demyelinating polyradiculoneuropathy (CIDP) in mid December, and more than likely I will end up in a wheel chair sooner rather than later. My only hope is Privigen IVIG Infusion therapy. The cost for these treatments are $32,000.00 for each one and, I will need at least 20 of them in hopes to put this terrible disease in remission. My insurance company will cover about 80% leaving the balance for me, which will be a lot of out of pocket money. My worry is, that this is a long shot, and this treatment my not even work.

I was just hoping that spending a few bucks on some front springs would make a small difference in how my Mustang would handle, and I could enjoy it this summer. But, from the response I got, some good, some questioning, and some just mean spirited, it will be best to just leave well enough alone. So for those of you who shared your good advice I thank you. And since I will not be doing any mods to my Mustang in the foreseeable future, I will not be posting any additional threads on this form.

So, thank you again to those who shared their experiences and opinions with me on this form.
 

GrabberBargeCaptain

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Sorry to hear of your health troubles. I certainly didn't intend to sound mean spirited.

To be honest, these cars suffer from crappy damping more than anything.. you probably notice when you hit a bump or have to make a quick maneuver.. car feels a bit floaty. If i HAD to only replace either springs or dampers, i would choose dampers every time, especially if i were elderly and didn't want to make it harder to get in and out of the car. Replacing just the front springs is just going to make it even harder on those already sub par dampers and in the long run you will wear them out quicker and make them bouncier.

Considering you've already bought all your parts i'd say bite the bullet and spend the $1000 or whatever in labor and just get it all done and enjoy... but i'm not in your shoes.
 
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Edgemere

Edgemere

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Sorry to hear of your health troubles. I certainly didn't intend to sound mean spirited.

To be honest, these cars suffer from crappy damping more than anything.. you probably notice when you hit a bump or have to make a quick maneuver.. car feels a bit floaty. If i HAD to only replace either springs or dampers, i would choose dampers every time, especially if i were elderly and didn't want to make it harder to get in and out of the car. Replacing just the front springs is just going to make it even harder on those already sub par dampers and in the long run you will wear them out quicker and make them bouncier.

Considering you've already bought all your parts i'd say bite the bullet and spend the $1000 or whatever in labor and just get it all done and enjoy... but i'm not in your shoes.
Thanks for your reply. Yes the parts are paid for and I have the FP Track strut/shock kit, with the Steeda Min Drop Springs, the BMR Cradle lock out, BMR sways, and some other parts to boot. I figure it will be closer to $1,500-$1800 to have them installed at my Ford Dealership.

This medical thing threw me for a loop. Anyway, after all of these parts are installed, I am concerned about the alignment. Is the Ford Dealer going to know how to align my Mustang with the new suspension or will he just set the alignment to the factory defaults?

Thanks
 

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I have a base 2019 GT and I'm know expert but i put ford performance street springs on my car with the stock shocks & struts on all four corners and it handles drives great maybe a little bit rough over stock. I have driven the Tail of the Dragon in Tennessee and it handles the corners with no problems Drive straight Down the Highway and no Bouncing .

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GrabberBargeCaptain

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Thanks for your reply. Yes the parts are paid for and I have the FP Track strut/shock kit, with the Steeda Min Drop Springs, the BMR Cradle lock out, BMR sways, and some other parts to boot. I figure it will be closer to $1,500-$1800 to have them installed at my Ford Dealership.

This medical thing threw me for a loop. Anyway, after all of these parts are installed, I am concerned about the alignment. Is the Ford Dealer going to know how to align my Mustang with the new suspension or will he just set the alignment to the factory defaults?

Thanks
Depends on the dealership. The one i go to has a couple of track rats in their employ, so they have no issue aligning the suspension with camber plates etc and doing custom alignments. Best thing to do is call ahead.. you will be able to tell immediately if they are gonna jerk you around re: alignment.

For simplicity's sake I would just give them the Ford performance alignment spec that's in your manual as their target, keeping in mind unless you put camber plates on the front, you are gonna be stuck with what you get for camber.
 

Jjmoberg

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Theres a few different answers here. First off Im really sorry to hear about your health problems. I wish nothing but good health for you most importantly!

Second, the simple answer to the original question is yes, you can do that, but its not gonna make your car handle better.

So third, if i were in your shoes, if i was 100% sure i cant cover $120k-ish of out of pocket, i would either:

1. Sell the parts now, and then the car when the time comes that i need the cash, and drive it til then as is

2. Get the parts installed one way or another, and enjoy the shit out of it during treatments if possible, til you have to sell it.

If i wasnt sure or thought maybe i could cover it somehow, i would definitely do option 2 above.

Additionally, this is an awful deal, and if you were in KC, id get some buddies together and put all those parts and some camber plates on your car in an afternoon, so you didn't have to pay install.
 
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Edgemere

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There is a few different answers here. First off Im really sorry to hear about your health problems. I wish nothing but good health for you most importantly!

Second, the simple answer to the original question is yes, you can do that, but its not gonna make your car handle better.

So third, if i were in your shoes, if i was 100% sure i cant cover $120k-ish of out of pocket, i would either:

1. Sell the parts now, and then the car when the time comes that i need the cash, and drive it til then as is

2. Get the parts installed one way or another, and enjoy the shit out of it during treatments if possible, til you have to sell it.

If i wasnt sure or thought maybe i could cover it somehow, i would definitely do option 2 above.

Additionally, this is an awful deal, and if you were in KC, id get some buddies together and put all those parts and some camber plates on your car in an afternoon, so you didn't have to pay install.
Thanks for your kind words. Yes the CIDP effects all the small fiber nerve endings in your entire body. They are on fire 24/7 and it is quite painful. I got this as a result from my last Covid booster shot. Never again.

Anyways, I have attached a copy of the FP Track kit I bought. It states that it has front strut top mounts. Are these not camber plates? And, can they not be used for adjusting camber? If not I will need to get the Steeda camber bolts. I am only dropping the car 1/2" all around. I want to stay away from their camber plates.......... Edgemere

Ford PP Track Dampers.png
 

Jjmoberg

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I believe those are just regular strut mounts. Camber bolts are probably a damn good option for only 1/2”. You wont need much correction if any to get in factory spec anyway. Quite frankly the camber might be at a good spot after a 1/2” drop.
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