Can anyone take some pics of your jacking rails. Going to make my own

[Sleeperls]

Like title states above. Going to build a set as I have the tube from previous things. Just needing how they are keeping it off the body. I'm going to integrate tie down points as well.

Thanks

Sponsored

 

[SheepDog]

https://www.google.com/search?q=mus...oFHTYABoEQ0pQJegQIAhAC&biw=1920&bih=872&dpr=1

 

[SheepDog]

https://zl1addons.com/products/mustang-strap-points

 

[Sleeperls]

I prefer to build vs buy. I've looked at the pics on Google. The steeda keep it off by how they weld the extentions on. Bmr rides the body all the way down. Some folks say they get some noise with the bmr style. I'll prob space them a 1/8 inch off the body.

 

[MAGS1]

@WD Pro made his own. He’s a good one to chime in here

 

[Sleeperls]

I'll search his post

 

[WD Pro]

I spotted this last night just before I went to bed, but it was too late for me to reply ... lol

Here you go, all the info is from my build thread :

Finished the stainless jacking rails

I went for (with my reasons) :

• 304 stainless (good enough for under the car – no issues with scratching / rusting etc).
• 50 x 30mm section (I wanted them a little lower than the pinch welds).
• 3mm wall section (I didn’t want to crimp or dent them).
• 5mm offset for the front holes (to allow for the offset in the frame mounts).
• 16mm small holes (good wiggle room around the M10’s – still easily covered by the 28mm captive washers.
• 30mm big holes (to accept the 28mm captive washers / easy size to get blanking plugs).
• 3mm mounting plates riveted to the underside (no need to trim seam sealer / some air space between the frame / 8mm overall protection for the pinch weld).
• Stainless rivet’s (just to hold the mounting plates in position relative to the rail during fitment / no chance of electrolytic corrosion with ally rivet’s).
• Plastic end plugs and hole plugs just to keep the stones out of them.
• 5mm drain holes at each end of the rail positioned on the outer / lower edges.
• Both rails are the same length and extended a little at the front.
• Rails are sized to work with the Steeda IRS braces (which are now coming up on the jobs list).

Overall I am very happy with them and they offer some benefits (to me) compared to the off the shelf offerings – They are sized exactly as I wanted, they should outlast the car and cost me £116 all in (including some spare plugs etc) compared to circa £140 / £175 rrp (+ postage / UK prices) for mild steel offerings from the big names

Final pictures :

Stainless laser cut pads :

Pads drilled through and countersunk for stainless rivets :

Pads mounted, original paper templates behind :

Ground the internal tubing weld flat where the bolts / washer will clamp :

All done :

I have since flushed them through to rid them of debris and give them a scrub up with a 3M pad. They just need the end caps banging in and then bolting under the car, hopefully this weekend if the bolts arrive in time from Ford …

WD

Jacking rails fitted - with a sigh of relief that all the measurements and marking out were OK so I didn’t need to get the die grinder out ... lol

From front to back, the frame rails holes are now used for :

• 1 to 4 = Jacking rails.
• 5 & 6 = IRS braces (yet to be fitted).
• 7 = Spare (supplied empty from ford - now with a OE bolt blanking it off).

Covered the pads in waxoyl before fitment :

Reused the OE bolts for the rails. Loctite 243 on the threads. Supertrol on the heads. Torqued them to 45 lbft (New OE bolts for the IRS braces and to blank the last set of frame holes) :

Protection for the pinch welds is about 8mm which is exactly what I was after :

All done, I should have about a 10mm gap from the end of the rail cap to the start of the IRS brace (once they get fitted) :

WD

I know there is someone else on here who made their own from mild steel and another who made them from aluminium.

Have fun

WD

 

[Sleeperls]

Thanks man. I might use a hard rubber as the spacer. I have a few sticks of 11g 1x2. I was going to use some solid firewall style grommet to keep debris out. I'll update when I'm done

 

[JCN]

Thanks man. I might use a hard rubber as the spacer. I have a few sticks of 11g 1x2. I was going to use some solid firewall style grommet to keep debris out. I'll update when I'm done

I made a set out of 1.5" aluminum, you sound capible so I won't bore you with details, but 1 heads up. On the drivers side the 4 holes (2 front and 2 rear) are not in a straight line, the pass side is. I don't know if this is a one off on my car or common to all. The rear 3 holes line up but the front one is towards the center of car about half the diameter of the hole. I measured and the spacing was same side to side, didn't catch the out of line till trying to bolt up. Worth a look as you design. Jim

 

[Sleeperls]

Cardboard aided design lol.

Sponsored