Camber plates

[Bluemustang]

There is definitely more road feel with these plates. Still mostly in the seat the steering is still dead feeling. I did add PP control arms at the same time so not sure how much each contributes, but turn in is much crisper. I suppose the next purchase is the front control arm bearings.

The steering feels dead because of OEM bushings. They suck. The bearings will change that. The camber plates do add some benefit too so I'm not surprised that you are feeling that. I am also a fan of doing the roll center correction (if you are lowered) as a means to perfect the steering. Jmo. I know @TeeLew objects to those. But I felt an improvement in how the steering behaved and more front grip.

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[TeeLew]

It's not that I object to them overall. I just think that they get used in situations where the actual geometry isn't as much of a problem as much as front spring stiffness. If you have a reasonable front spring and want more front-end response, it's a good way to go, but that added response you get generally isn't free. If raised too high, it will often give you a quick turn-in straight to understeer. The extended ball joints don't seem to do that, but it is directionally what happens when you raise the front roll-center.

I have a set of extended ball joint arms I've never installed. I don't really feel as if I need any extra front response and I don't want to give up the camber, so they sit in the box. Having said this, my front end is a lot lighter than most people here, so it may be something that's better suited to the cars with a heavier nose.

Just because it's not what *I* like doesn't mean it's bad. We all like something a little different. My ramblings are just that. Please don't take any of it as gospel.

 

[Bluemustang]

It's not that I object to them overall. I just think that they get used in situations where the actual geometry isn't as much of a problem as much as front spring stiffness. If you have a reasonable front spring and want more front-end response, it's a good way to go, but that added response you get generally isn't free. If raised too high, it will often give you a quick turn-in straight to understeer. The extended ball joints don't seem to do that, but it is directionally what happens when you raise the front roll-center.

I have a set of extended ball joint arms I've never installed. I don't really feel as if I need any extra front response and I don't want to give up the camber, so they sit in the box. Having said this, my front end is a lot lighter than most people here, so it may be something that's better suited to the cars with a heavier nose.

Just because it's not what *I* like doesn't mean it's bad. We all like something a little different. My ramblings are just that. Please don't take any of it as gospel.

Thanks TeeLew for adding additional clarity on that. And I agree from a roll perspective, stiff front spring is way more important. My comment or observation from using these roll center arms on a lowered car is more an improvement from a steering dynamic perspective. It now feels "as stock" to me but now I have the added benefit of the lower COG and roll stiffness from the front springs.

As you mention it, I am going from a 250lb front spring (BMR) to a 514lb spring (Ohlins). I will be very interested to see what will happen. I've come over to your side on the stiffer front - softer rear (relative) for the Mustang. My rear spring rate will also now drop from 980 to 800 with the Ohlins kit going in.

 

[K4fxd]

I'm lowered 1/2 inch, Steeda min drop springs. I need street clearance. I don't have any bump steer problems so I don't need the roll center arms.

I also agree with a softer rear spring relative to the front. I knew the mustang was nose heavy but I just weighed mind on a CAT scale and it is 400 pounds heavier on the front.

 

[Bluemustang]

I'm lowered 1/2 inch, Steeda min drop springs. I need street clearance. I don't have any bump steer problems so I don't need the roll center arms.

I also agree with a softer rear spring relative to the front. I knew the mustang was nose heavy but I just weighed mind on a CAT scale and it is 400 pounds heavier on the front.

OK, yeah with only 1/2" drop you won't benefit from roll center correction. Better to stay with stock arms and just press in the bearings if you want them.

I think the front needs it. 1) the weight - to be able to control the roll + pitch and change directions quicker and 2) MacPherson strut design. Heavier roll resistance to prevent it from going into the bad camber zone during hard cornering.
And the rear needs some more compliance due to RWD and the power. Easier to put down power on exit.

 

[TeeLew]

... The Ohlins kit going in.

I think that kit is a really good combo.

 

[Bluemustang]

I think that kit is a really good combo.

Thank you sir

 

[TeeLew]

Honestly, I'm not aware of a better "off the shelf" spring/damper package. I'd probably choose these over the DSSV's from Multimatic. I've got a thing about spool valves in dampers. They're just a no-no.

 

[Bluemustang]

Honestly, I'm not aware of a better "off the shelf" spring/damper package. I'd probably choose these over the DSSV's from Multimatic. I've got a thing about spool valves in dampers. They're just a no-no.

I can't wait to feel this setup. Installing tomorrow. When I set out looking for coilovers, I thought I was going with MCS TT1. I was emailing Jason @ Vorshlag and he quickly steered me away from those based on how I described my use of the car. Predominantly street car that will see some track time. And, he suggested the Ohlins R&T kit. I then probed him about going with custom rate package, to which he strongly suggested I use stock rates from Ohlins.

I think I'm as much excited to test out the dampers as I am to try out the stiffer front springs. I'm increasing rate by 100% so thats a lot lol.

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