Calimer's Stage 3 MT82-4 help.

[CarTramrod]

I have a 2018 Mustang GT PP1 with the MT82-D4 and I broke the 3-4 shift fork last weekend. As I am not one to put stock parts back in I am leaning towards a stage 3 Calimer's. I know it is overkill for my FBO car but I will eventually boost my car. What are some of the issues I will encounter doing this? Do i have to get it retuned? Will my cruise control still work? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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[NGOT8R]

I have a 2018 Mustang GT PP1 with the MT82-D4 and I broke the 3-4 shift fork last weekend. As I am not one to put stock parts back in I am leaning towards a stage 3 Calimer's. I know it is overkill for my FBO car but I will eventually boost my car. What are some of the issues I will encounter doing this? Do i have to get it retuned? Will my cruise control still work? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

While I don’t have a Calimer Stage 3, I do have a built MT82-D4 which I feel is as close to if not equal to the Stage (minus the 26 spline input shaft and G-Force billet gears) due to treatments done to the hard parts. I built mine myself and here’s what I can tell you:

- I did not have to get my car retuned
- A good clutch is a must
- My cruise control still works

Here’s the link to my rebuild thread in case you haven’t already seen it. At the very least, it’ll give you some insight on the internals of the D4.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mt82-d4-rebuild-thread.176240/

Lastly, I did speak with Calimer during my build to see if I could purchase their proprietary G-Force gears and they told me that they could only be purchased if they built the tranny. They also asked which clutch I was running and I told them that I had a Ram Pro Street Twin Disc Cerametallic Clutch and was told that the transmission would break with this clutch. This may be true under normal circumstances, but I have a unique clutch setup which I believe reduces drivetrain shock tremendously and will likely help the tranny to live a longer and happier life.

 

[CarTramrod]

While I don’t have a Calimer Stage 3, I do have a built MT82-D4 which I feel is as close to if not equal to the Stage (minus the 26 spline input shaft and G-Force billet gears) due to treatments done to the hard parts. I built mine myself and here’s what I can tell you:

- I did not have to get my car retuned
- A good clutch is a must
- My cruise control still works

Here’s the link to my rebuild thread in case you haven’t already seen it. At the very least, it’ll give you some insight on the internals of the D4.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mt82-d4-rebuild-thread.176240/

Lastly, I did speak with Calimer during my build to see if I could purchase their proprietary G-Force gears and they told me that they could only be purchased if they built the tranny. They also asked which clutch I was running and I told them that I had a Ram Pro Street Twin Disc Cerametallic Clutch and was told that the transmission would break with this clutch. This may be true under normal circumstances, but I have a unique clutch setup which I believe reduces drivetrain shock tremendously and will likely help the tranny to live a longer and happier life.

I read your rebuild thread pretty thourougly and it looks a bit out of my skill level but there was a lot of great information so thank you for taking time to make that. For cluthes they were really pushing the vengence clutch but I think I'm going to go with the mantic clutch. I have friends that have experciened driving an mt82 with one and they have nothing but good things to say about it (minus the price being crazy). From what i understand is that because the gears are a different ratio in the stage 3 then stock the computer doesn't like the change and the cruise control doesn't work with out making some tweaks in the tune.

 

[NGOT8R]

I read your rebuild thread pretty thourougly and it looks a bit out of my skill level but there was a lot of great information so thank you for taking time to make that. For cluthes they were really pushing the vengence clutch but I think I'm going to go with the mantic clutch. I have friends that have experciened driving an mt82 with one and they have nothing but good things to say about it (minus the price being crazy). From what i understand is that because the gears are a different ratio in the stage 3 then stock the computer doesn't like the change and the cruise control doesn't work with out making some tweaks in the tune.

NP. Now that I think about it, you do need a retune. I just remembered Alejandro Flores saying that in his review video.

 

[NGOT8R]

I read your rebuild thread pretty thourougly and it looks a bit out of my skill level but there was a lot of great information so thank you for taking time to make that. For cluthes they were really pushing the vengence clutch but I think I'm going to go with the mantic clutch. I have friends that have experciened driving an mt82 with one and they have nothing but good things to say about it (minus the price being crazy). From what i understand is that because the gears are a different ratio in the stage 3 then stock the computer doesn't like the change and the cruise control doesn't work with out making some tweaks in the tune.

All of these clutches are ridiculously priced higher than a giraffe’s bOOty.

 

[CarTramrod]

NP. Now that I think about it, you do need a retune. I just remembered Alejandro Flores saying that in his review video.

I have watched this video and he says that it needs a retune because of the auto rev matching on the 19-23's. Mine is a 2018 so it doesn't have the auto rev matching and i'm hoping the ratios can be changed via forscan or using the hptuner software without retuning it. There doesn't seem to be a clearcut answer out there online at least.

 

[NGOT8R]

I have watched this video and he says that it needs a retune because of the auto rev matching on the 19-23's. Mine is a 2018 so it doesn't have the auto rev matching and i'm hoping the ratios can be changed via forscan or using the hptuner software without retuning it. There doesn't seem to be a clearcut answer out there online at least.

I’m sure Calimer can tell you for certain whether those tweaks are possible via ForScan or HP Tuners.

When do you think you’ll be making the swap?

 

[CarTramrod]

I’m sure Calimer can tell you for certain whether those tweaks are possible via ForScan or HP Tuners.

When do you think you’ll be making the swap?

I think i'm gonna try to get the transmission dropped this weekend and ship it out next week. They said it could take up to 8 weeks before i get it back though.

 

[NGOT8R]

I think i'm gonna try to get the transmission dropped this weekend and ship it out next week. They said it could take up to 8 weeks before i get it back though.

You can always use that down time to get the new clutch installed and maybe make whatever other tweaks that you have planned for the car.

How doe you intend to use the car (autocross, street, drag or a co binational of all three)?

 

[CarTramrod]

You can always use that down time to get the new clutch installed and maybe make whatever other tweaks that you have planned for the car.

How doe you intend to use the car (autocross, street, drag or a co binational of all three)?

My plans for the car are just to have a fun street car. I may take it to the dragstrip a few times but since i'm keeping it manual it won't be the fastest. My main goal is to just be able to beat 99% of the cars I encounter on the street. I figure i'm going to go ahead and do a carbon fiber driveshaft when doing the transmission. And next winter I will do a stage 2 whipple with a fuel system and new half shafts.

 

[CarTramrod]

NP. Now that I think about it, you do need a retune. I just remembered Alejandro Flores saying that in his review video.

Talked to calimers and they said a tune revision is required, I then reached out to lund and they confimed I will need a tune revision and it will be the $150 charge to revise all 4 of my tunes so not terrible I guess. I have a question about dropping the transmission. Did you have to remove the intake to get to the top 2 transmission bolts?

 

[NGOT8R]

Talked to calimers and they said a tune revision is required, I then reached out to lund and they confimed I will need a tune revision and it will be the $150 charge to revise all 4 of my tunes so not terrible I guess. I have a question about dropping the transmission. Did you have to remove the intake to get to the top 2 transmission bolts?

Yes, I did. Removing the intake manifold made accessing the two top tranny bolts so much easier. I wasn’t even about to try accessing them from the rear of the tranny and damage the heads on them.

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