Building the motor

[robmustang201528]

I'll be building the motor soon. Manley Tuff Rods, custom Weisco pistions, sleeved block ,Clevite Coated H-Series Main Bearings, Clevite H-Series Rod Bearings I already have oil pump gears and crank sprocket and ARP bolts. I'm also going to buy a new oil pump since the motor will be apart, going to purchase a ATI double key harmonic balancer. Keeping my stock heads and cams. Is there anything else I need to replace? Timing chain guides?? Do I really need them? Also what about the main Bearings caps? I want to make 900 to the wheels all day long without issues. Im running a V7JT Vortech blower with id1000 injectors, 18 intake 8 rib set up longtubes with a ben calimer stage 3 transmission with a rxt clutch. Later down the line, I'm going to get a fuel system but for right now... I'll be on pump smh. Dropping the compression to 10:1 . What do you guys think of this build. Is there anything I might need or I'm missing? Thanks for your time

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[Dominant1]

You’ll need a bap, & Upgrade your valve springs, i went with livernois springs, i have stock cams and heads on my Procharger set up. That’s a nice list you got. With 10:1 compression you can turn that vortech up a bit. Good luck with the build..

 

[BDMACH1]

If you are looking to make 900rwhp, I would suggest going with a return style fuel system. You are probably gonna be getting close to being outta room on the injector side too! I would consider looking at a Fore Innovations fuel system and maybe some ID1300's for piece of mind. Do it once and be done with it...

 

[robmustang201528]

You’ll need a bap, & Upgrade your valve springs, i went with livernois springs, i have stock cams and heads on my Procharger set up. That’s a nice list you got. With 10:1 compression you can turn that vortech up a bit. Good luck with the build..

I forgot to say I have a BAP. I'll turn it up when I get a fuel system

 

[BDMACH1]

Why would you drop the compression on the new build???

 

[robmustang201528]

You’ll need a bap, & Upgrade your valve springs, i went with livernois springs, i have stock cams and heads on my Procharger set up. That’s a nice list you got. With 10:1 compression you can turn that vortech up a bit. Good luck with the build..

Do you have a link to the springs you purchased? And why do I need springs?

 

[robmustang201528]

Why would you drop the compression on the new build???

They say dropping the compression keeps you safe. Well... safer...a little more forgiving especially on 93 with boost.

 

[robmustang201528]

Well let me take that back 1000 at the wheel with E85 without issues. Shit... it

If you are looking to make 900rwhp, I would suggest going with a return style fuel system. You are probably gonna be getting close to being outta room on the injector side too! I would consider looking at a Fore Innovations fuel system and maybe some ID1300's for piece of mind. Do it once and be done with it...

Maybe I can make 1000hp with the ID 1300 and e85

 

[Angrey]

Thing is, if you're going this far, why not spend a little more and go all the way with billet I beams.

If you're sleeved and everything else is upgraded, that's the last major difference in kicking it up a notch.

As far as springs go, lowering the compression will help but it doesn't hurt to have mild upgrade springs at higher rpm to prevent float. Seems like you've upgraded everything else so the only thing you're shorting really is rods and valve springs.

As far as guides go, you don't have to replace them, just check that they're not worn out. If you're not running E-85 then the upgraded wear strips aren't really necessary. I'd look at upgrading the secondary chains.

Also, did you go with a billet sprocket when you did your OPG? I also went with a billet rear main just for ishts/giggles.

 

[robmustang201528]

Thing is, if you're going this far, why not spend a little more and go all the way with billet I beams.

If you're sleeved and everything else is upgraded, that's the last major difference in kicking it up a notch.

As far as springs go, lowering the compression will help but it doesn't hurt to have mild upgrade springs at higher rpm to prevent float. Seems like you've upgraded everything else so the only thing you're shorting really is rods and valve springs.

As far as guides go, you don't have to replace them, just check that they're not worn out. If you're not running E-85 then the upgraded wear strips aren't really necessary. I'd look at upgrading the secondary chains.

Also, did you go with a billet sprocket when you did your OPG? I also went with a billet rear main just for ishts/giggles.

I would like to go with I beams but they're just to expensive. I have a number in mind and I'm not trying to go over that... not even a penny lol. They say the Manly tuff rods are rated at a 1000. I don't plan on making more then that. Shit...I want to say I went with MMR oil pump and sprocket. I assume they're billet. Secondary chains?? Damn it.. have people reported breaking or the chains getting loose? "Billet Rear main" real main seal?

 

[80FoxCoupe]

I'll be building the motor soon. Manley Tuff Rods, custom Weisco pistions, sleeved block ,Clevite Coated H-Series Main Bearings, Clevite H-Series Rod Bearings I already have oil pump gears and crank sprocket and ARP bolts. I'm also going to buy a new oil pump since the motor will be apart, going to purchase a ATI double key harmonic balancer. Keeping my stock heads and cams. Is there anything else I need to replace? Timing chain guides?? Do I really need them? Also what about the main Bearings caps? I want to make 900 to the wheels all day long without issues. Im running a V7JT Vortech blower with id1000 injectors, 18 intake 8 rib set up longtubes with a ben calimer stage 3 transmission with a rxt clutch. Later down the line, I'm going to get a fuel system but for right now... I'll be on pump smh. Dropping the compression to 10:1 . What do you guys think of this build. Is there anything I might need or I'm missing? Thanks for your time

Get with your engine builder for your request. Asking a forum to build your engine is gonna be a cluster fuck.

 

[Barrel]

I'd stick with 11:1 compression. Boss valve springs. I'd agree that I beams are a good idea so you never have to have the motor apart again but a budget is a budget. I wouldn't bother with chains and what not unless you're going to routinely see 8000rpm.

 

[robmustang201528]

Get with your engine builder for your request. Asking a forum to build your engine is gonna be a cluster fuck.

Lol ..True just trying to get some ideas. See what other people have done that worked or didn't. I don't engine builder trying to sell me on shit I don't need

 

[BDMACH1]

Lol ..True just trying to get some ideas. See what other people have done that worked or didn't. I don't engine builder trying to sell me on shit I don't need

If you don't have faith in what your engine builder is telling you, you should find a new engine builder. I personally would use a builder that is very familiar with the engine, and what it's capabilities are etc...

 

[robmustang201528]

If you don't have faith in what your engine builder is telling you, you should find a new engine builder. I personally would use a builder that is very familiar with the engine, and what it's capabilities are etc...

It's not that I don't have faith in the engine builder. He's well known from understanding and does great work. I just like to hear what other people have done with their builds.

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