Breaking it in

[Tim Hilliard]

You don't have to do this with the coolant fed turbos that the ecoboosts have. The coolant keeps flowing after the engine goes off naturally (the heat that transfers into the coolant from the hot turbo causes flow all by itself) and it prevents any oil from cooking and coming up turbo bearings). Of course you don't want to go on a WOT blast and immediate kill the ignition but you are perfectly fine to pull into the driveway and shut her off

My bad, didn't know they were water cooled. It appears they are http://image.motortrend.com/f/roadtests/coupes/1312_2015_ford_mustang_first_look/62689246/2015-ford-mustang-ecoboost-engine.jpg

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[Asharus]

i think most turbos these days are. even the ancient design of my turbo 2011 wrx is watercooled. the coolant tank is right above the turbo and it was designed that way to keep circulating the coolant until it cools down.

even if you went WOT right before shutting the engine off, it'll be fine.

 

[Tim Hilliard]

even if you went WOT right before shutting the engine off, it'll be fine.

Well, it still needs oil flow when spinning at 40K RPM

 

[tribaltek]

i think most turbos these days are. even the ancient design of my turbo 2011 wrx is watercooled. the coolant tank is right above the turbo and it was designed that way to keep circulating the coolant until it cools down.

*edit* - Thought you meant something else.

 

[Asharus]

i really dont wanna argue about a subaru on a mustang forum. and for the record i know a lot about this subaru, because ive been modding it for 3 years.

i did not even know the below post existed, i just learned about this from my subaru forums, but i just did a quick google search for "wrx turbo cooling"

http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/random-fun-car-fact-subaru-shutdown-turbo-cooling-514111544

 

[tribaltek]

My bad. I thought you were trying to say your intercooler was water-to-air.

 

[Merle]

Most engine wear occurs when the engine is cold after it has set idle for several hours, whether during break in or during normal service. Let the engine idle for a minute or two before driving off, and don't rev it until the temp gauge moves off the "cold" peg.

Also, more engine damage is caused by dirt ingested through the intake system than by extended oil use, so check the air filter element on a regular basis. If it is dirty, change it. Don't try to knock the dirt off and then just put it back in the air cleaner box.

So taking reasonable care with your engine will pay higher dividends than changing the oil more frequently than the factory-recommended schedule calls for.

I use Ford synthetic blend in my 06 Fusion. Synth engine oil is one of the wonders of the modern world, IMHO. I also use Motorcraft filters, as the quality of aftermarket filters varies wildly.

Back in the 1970's one of the popular accessories for the Honda 750 Four motorcycle was a magnetic oil drain plug. I replaced the stock drain plug with a magnetic one in my '73, and on the next oil change, I was amazed how many tiny metal bits were clinging to the plug. That was a lot of potential damage which had been taken out of suspension in the engine oil, not by the filter, but by the magnetic plug.

Thankfully, today's engines, lubricants and filters are a lot more advanced than what we had to work with in those days.

Also, I don't know yet about the ecoboost, but on my 1980s vintage Turbo Volvos (I had two), I always let the engine idle for a minute of two before turning it off. This was because with the engine off, oil was no longer being delivered to the turbocharger bearings. Turbos spin at very high rpm rates, so gunning the engine before you shut it down was not the smartest thing to do. Coming off a freeway exit ramp or a high-speed street run right into a garage or parking space and then quickly shutting the engine off allowed the turbo to spin at tens of thousands of rpm with no oil being pumped to it. That was one of the main causes of turbo failure among early turbocharged engines.

A magnetic oil drain plug WILL NOT PICK UP COPPER,ALUM, or OTHER
I THINK IT RIMES WITH POUROS OR NON POUROS MATERIAL.

 

[svt93style]

Line lock in the dealer parking lot.

This was great...:lol:

 

[Ruby305GT]

In short, what I have taken from this thread is:

1- First 100 miles no WOT
2- First 101-1000 miles you can WOT, but dont pass 4k RPMs and keep speeds variable
3- Check your oil often the first few thousand miles.
4- Buy magnetic plug to swap out in your first oil change, should be sooner than later (before 3k miles)
5- Go to dealership for oil change
6- LINE LOCK IN DEALER PARKING LOT! Upon pickup of course and paying for services.
7- Collect gypsy tears

 

[JimmyTwoTimes]

From the manual, page 188:

Avoid driving too fast during the first 1000
miles (1600 kilometers). Vary your speed
frequently and change up through the
gears early. Do not labor the engine.

I'm assuming that "Do not labor the engine" = "Do not go over 2,000 RPM."

 

[Budwise]

labor the engine means dont put it in 6th gear going 40mph and floor it.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Personally this is my break in.

Ill take it easy for the first 100 miles, no long duration driving, lots of city stuff.

After the 100 miles ill start having fun with but doing things like keeping it in gear going downhill.

After 1000 miles ill do an oil change and start enjoying the car.

 

[OppoLock]

From the manual, page 188:



I'm assuming that "Do not labor the engine" = "Do not go over 2,000 RPM."

Pretty sure it's the other way arond. Laboring an engine would involve being in too high a gear for a given speed to the point of bogging the engine down.

Or towing heavy loads under heavy throttle.

Or idling for excessive periods.

 

[McCarthy]

What I did with my current Mustang is no WOT for the first 100 miles, then brief periods of WOT between 100-500 miles, then give her hell each and every day. (once engine and trans are FULLY warmed up.) Car is now at ~25k miles after barely 16 months and has never burned a drop, even during extended sessions on a road course. Car is tracked almost every weekend during the summer, and guaranteed to have hundreds of autocross runs in by now.

Key is warming everything up before driving. I make sure it drops down to normal idle before even setting off. Only time the car has ever seen hard throttle when cold was in an emergency situation, and it likely saved my life. Well worth whatever damage it may have done to the motor...

 

[JimmyTwoTimes]

My dealer told me it didn't need any break-in at all, just drive it like normally would. I hit redline at WOT with 30 miles on it.

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