Break in?

[bootlegger]

We have this conversation once a week. RPM means very little compared to load. Warm it up, give some hard runs every once in a while, and try to avoid bouncing off the rev limiter too much early on in life. If you are bogging the engine under 4k, you are doing more for wear than just revving up to 7k. There are a lot of old wives tales and old school opinions that don't apply to modern engines (and oils). I have worked in development of the whole engine, the factory fill fluids, and now the injection system. Each component that goes into your engine is warmed up and run through a full array of tests separate and once together in the vehicle. Your engine has already seen 7k by the time you have the vehicle.

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[DickR]

We have this conversation once a week. RPM means very little compared to load. Warm it up, give some hard runs every once in a while, and try to avoid bouncing off the rev limiter too much early on in life. If you are bogging the engine under 4k, you are doing more for wear than just revving up to 7k. There are a lot of old wives tales and old school opinions that don't apply to modern engines (and oils). I have worked in development of the whole engine, the factory fill fluids, and now the injection system. Each component that goes into your engine is warmed up and run through a full array of tests separate and once together in the vehicle. Your engine has already seen 7k by the time you have the vehicle.

James - Do you know if Ford uses assembly lube and/or a different spec of Motorcraft oil in the Coyote engines for factory fill vs the recommended semi-synthetic 5w-20 service oil? If so, how do those specs compare to the recommended Motorcraft oil? FYI I have used the "overkill" break-in period as a good excuse to take long low key drives with my wife exploring roads and small towns around Raleigh (it helps to be retired . . . ). After 1K I go out by myself and "test". NOTE: the engine, trans, brakes, etc. have now been tested. ;)

 

[Wriggly]

Everybody will tell you a different opinion.

Personally I went by this video and changed oil at about 1500 miles.

My God, don't know which is worse, the grating monotone voice or the skinny arms. Couldn't watch the whole thing.

 

[bootlegger]

James - Do you know if Ford uses assembly lube and/or a different spec of Motorcraft oil in the Coyote engines for factory fill vs the recommended semi-synthetic 5w-20 service oil? If so, how do those specs compare to the recommended Motorcraft oil? FYI I have used the "overkill" break-in period as a good excuse to take long low key drives with my wife exploring roads and small towns around Raleigh (it helps to be retired . . . ). After 1K I go out by myself and "test". NOTE: the engine, trans, brakes, etc. have now been tested. ;)

I don't know the exact type of factory fill Ford uses, but the engine companies I dealt with all had a factory fill different than the normal oil. Usually, the base oil is similar to what they recommend, but there are extra additives that help during break-in and first couple thousand miles. Some OEMs even recommend to not dump the factory fill oil.

 

[Timeless]

I don't know the exact type of factory fill Ford uses, but the engine companies I dealt with all had a factory fill different than the normal oil. Usually, the base oil is similar to what they recommend, but there are extra additives that help during break-in and first couple thousand miles. Some OEMs even recommend to not dump the factory fill oil.

Yup Yup.

The RS has some sort of greenish colored factory fill that I'm sure was for the initial break in.

 

[DukeGaGa]

We have this conversation once a week. RPM means very little compared to load. Warm it up, give some hard runs every once in a while, and try to avoid bouncing off the rev limiter too much early on in life. If you are bogging the engine under 4k, you are doing more for wear than just revving up to 7k. There are a lot of old wives tales and old school opinions that don't apply to modern engines (and oils). I have worked in development of the whole engine, the factory fill fluids, and now the injection system. Each component that goes into your engine is warmed up and run through a full array of tests separate and once together in the vehicle. Your engine has already seen 7k by the time you have the vehicle.

In the case of wearing down imperfections, RPM plays a much more important roll. It's kinetic friction that's doing the job, so how fast and how frequent the piston moves against the imperfections will determine how much heat is generated by friction. Engine load on the other hand will play a much bigger roll when it comes to other parts of the engine break in, such as the crank since that is directly in-line of the force.

 

[5.0-50A]

and here we go! LOL

 

[tom_sprecher]

Hmmm. Who to trust? Multiple performance car manufacturer's recommendations saying basically the same thing, or internet "experts" with a screen names and opinions?

Boy, that's a tough one.

 

[Rasn1320]

I read the owners manual,says to take it easy esp the first 1000 miles,so after that comes the fun lol

 

[DukeGaGa]

I read the owners manual,says to take it easy esp the first 1000 miles,so after that comes the fun lol

Yep, that’s right.

 

[bootlegger]

I read the owners manual,says to take it easy esp the first 1000 miles,so after that comes the fun lol

They don't suggest to keep it under 4k rpms. They specifically say this:
"Avoid driving too fast during the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine."

This is legal-speak for "don't bounce off the redline, don't heavily load the engine, and regularly run up/down the rpm range".

 

[bootlegger]

In the case of wearing down imperfections, RPM plays a much more important roll. It's kinetic friction that's doing the job, so how fast and how frequent the piston moves against the imperfections will determine how much heat is generated by friction. Engine load on the other hand will play a much bigger roll when it comes to other parts of the engine break in, such as the crank since that is directly in-line of the force.

Your engine has already been to redline a few times before you bought the car. Engine load increases cylinder pressure (cylinder walls/piston) and also adds extra force to the moving parts (piston, rod, crank).

 

[Bullitt]

They don't suggest to keep it under 4k rpms. They specifically say this:
"Avoid driving too fast during the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine."

This is legal-speak for "don't bounce off the redline, don't heavily load the engine, and regularly run up/down the rpm range".

You seem to be glazing over the part that says "change up through the gears early". This implies not letting the rpms get too high, otherwise they wouldn't call it early. This means upshifting even before you usually would.

 

[DukeGaGa]

Your engine has already been to redline a few times before you bought the car. Engine load increases cylinder pressure (cylinder walls/piston) and also adds extra force to the moving parts (piston, rod, crank).

yeah, a few times, not all the time. Also, force in one direction doesn't magically change to a force in a different direction, so rpm is still the doing most of the job of wearing cylinder walls, not the pressure asserted from gas blowing up and pressing on the cylinder wall, nor the pressure asserted to the piston.

 

[Endokendal]

My God, don't know which is worse, the grating monotone voice or the skinny arms. Couldn't watch the whole thing.

Love how anybody can make a YouTube video and be an expert

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