Break In - Avoiding the same speed for too long

[Cobra Commander]

Right, but my point was there's no reason to bounce it off the rev limiter at any time. The car is faster if you shift before you get there!

I have to admit that 6 grand in first doesn't feel or sound like what I'm used to. I really wasn't try to go that fast. I'm used to long tubes and giant cam. What I've got now is about 100 less hp and tq than my last car. It pulls a little different than I'm used. I should be used to in a few days. Then I'm going to give it about 20 pounds of boost and have to figure it out all over again. Lol

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[clevernickname]

Drove the gt semi hard to break it in. Nothing past 120 km/h. Not even for very long. 5-10 seconds at that speed.

Then smelled that burning smell coming from the engine when I parked the car. Only 200km on it. Should I be worried?

 

[thehunterooo]

Drove the gt semi hard to break it in. Nothing past 120 km/h. Not even for very long. 5-10 seconds at that speed.

Then smelled that burning smell coming from the engine when I parked the car. Only 200km on it. Should I be worried?

Mine has had a burning smell as well, off and on, at 320 miles.

 

[kn7671]

Nothing to worry about, perfectly normal smells coming from new exhaust, engine, and brakes.

 

[clevernickname]

Nothing to worry about, perfectly normal smells coming from new exhaust, engine, and brakes.

Was hoping that's the case. Thanks

 

[Chaos_Being]

I'm more or less following the break-in described in the manual. Varying speeds/rpm (my commute is mostly on lower speed roads and would by default keep the engine at low rpm most of the time, so I do some partial throttle dashes to a higher speed and then let off,) and no WOT yet (that is the hard part.) Plenty of harder partial throttle pulls with boost, although I have for the most part kept it at 4k max (I hit 5k a couple of times while letting my enthusiasm get the best of me.)

The hard break in makes sense to me as well, but I've done an "official factory" break-in on my other vehicles with good success, so... :shrug:

That said at 1k it will be time for a burnout and WOT run

 

[davekro]

ColoradoGT,
I appreciate the perspective and thanks for posting.
And may your Mustang show 'in transit' pronto.

 

[Shawnski]

I have broken in many a new car and rebuilt 3 engines. The key for me (all 3 engines are still in service) is drive it normally with varied RPM, and change the oil and filter early, like 1500 miles. The thing that is tight on a new engine is the rings seating with the cylinders, that's it. That takes miles (500 or so) to lossen that friction so it's pointless to go WOT anyway. A normal RPM range of 3-4k is alll it needs. I would not worry, unless you just hit the cruise right from the dealer @ 2k for a 2 hour drive, even then its probobly not a problem since you will experience different loads during that time.

Like an earlier poster said really just drive it normally for at least the first 500 miles before you engage in a street race (I added the last part).

 

[pyrophilus]

I would think extended periods of time would be hours on end. For example, a three hours road trip where you set cruise control to 70 for the entire time.

I agree. I remember in the 90's Nissan dealers used to recommend that folks avoid long road trips if possible. So I do believe it is the lack of rpm variation that kne is supposed to avoid.

 

[pyrophilus]

It says vary your speed for the first 1,000 miles. I'm not sure exactly why but I can think of a couple reasons:
1. Rings seat better if they are loaded. Full throttle or no throttle positions are best for seating the rings. A good ring seal = more power. This is also why extended idling is bad for your engine and not recommended by manufacturers. Also why if I ever bought a competitor's product with cylinder deactivation I would shut it off.
2. There are engine components that get oiling from splash coming from other components rather than directly. Splash oiling varies by rpm.

I avoid winding the engine all the way out and vary speed quite a bit for the first 1,000 miles. Not just down shifting to vary the RPM but also changing the speed of the car so that the rings are subjected to throttle changes. A lightly loaded engine (highway cruise) can glaze the cylinders and the ring seal won't be as good.

 

[pyrophilus]

Mine has had a burning smell as well, off and on, at 320 miles.

Me too. Can't tell what it Is. Somedays it smells like it could be clutch, but I don't grind.
on somedays when it is strong it smells like burnt plastic or pvc,
some days I think it smells like oil (no smoke what so ever)
And other times it smells like brake pads were stuck and burned.

Does not happen often, but every few 100 mi. I am at 2k mi now.

I am also noticing that it doesn't roll as long as I thought it did when. I press clutch and coast. And it makes a weird noise when I try to drive first thing in the morning.

I hope you find a solution to your smell.

 

[clevernickname]

I've been flooring it every now and then and varying rpms as you guys say. Flooring it for a few seconds here and there is ok right? I've reached about 160km/h so far..didn't want to go any faster than that just yet. At 500km right now.

Also, after my spirited driving, as I was pulling into my driveway, I noticed it was much louder. Is the car supposed to get louder as you drive it more, or if it had been driven hard, am I just imagining things, or is that BAD that my car suddenly sounds louder.

 

[Shawnski]

I agree with your thoughts on proper break in...but, not the changing of oil so quickly. Unless Ford engine engineers def. say that....I have talked with Honda Motor Corp. engine engineers...and they have quality engines in the Hondas and Acuras....they want the break in oil that's put in at the factory to stay in much longer.

I don't know of any special break-in motor oil that FoMoCo or BMW uses. I do know that metal particulates appear in the oil as a result of initial break in, hence the early first oil change I believe in (and always a high quality filter with an anti drain-back check valve, not a basic Fram). Auto manufacturers want you to know that their car has a very long oil change interval so not to inconvenience and to be competitive with other makes. Their service goal is 10 years - 150k, beyond that its on you.

Unless you are breaking in a flat tappet cam, special additives in oil is not required. Zinc has been virtually eliminated because of its effect on catylizers.

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