Be sure to report it to the NHTSA...Happened to my 15 s550 GT (both the clutch and brake) this weekend on a cruise out in the middle of no where, great friend trailered it home, and not able to initially diagnosis - many thanks to this thread as it saved me a ton of money and time. Utilized the solid rubber replacements suggested in earlier post without issue. Thanks
That must mean the brake lights come on if the pad on the brake pedal falls out. Or is there a separate dedicated switch for the cruise control? Normally, cruise will cut out if the brake lights are on.
Cruise control will also fail when the brake sensor tab breaks. It will also cause issues with acceleration because the car thinks you are losing control. However, if you hold down the traction control button FOR 5 SECONDS (many seemed to struggle with that simple instruction) not a double tap, not a single tap. FOR 5 SECONDS!! and completely deactivate your traction control, it will allow you to drive your car normally but your brake lights will still be on the whole time. Completely deactivated doesn't mean sport mode either. If someone can't hold a button down and wait for their dash to tell them traction control is deactivated before releasing that button, I don't know how they get anything done anywhere in any situation. They can't even datalog for online tuners if they fail at this. But they do live amongst us.
I swapped out my factory brake switch pad today (preemptive swap) with the Toyota pad (p/n 90541-06036). Side note, I also bought the switch pad from Advance Auto (p/n N3121440809OES) - note "OES" in the p/n - and it's exactly the same as the Toyota part. The Advance Auto pad even comes in a bag labeled with the Toyota p/n 90541-06036.Happened to my 15 s550 GT (both the clutch and brake) this weekend on a cruise out in the middle of no where, great friend trailered it home, and not able to initially diagnosis - many thanks to this thread as it saved me a ton of money and time. Utilized the solid rubber replacements suggested in earlier post without issue. Thanks
Both of mine had no part number or marking but it was a clear plastic/rubber part as well. Maybe it was soft in the beginning but it was really solid with no flexibility when I found it in the floor board. I would say the density and feel of the Toyota part was very similar to the failed Ford part. My car was purchased in Nov 14 so possibly different build date and alternative supplier of the part in earlier manufacturing . Was difficult hard to change (mostly just having to get my 6’ft frame upside down in the floor with out too many frustrating 4 letter words) I followed the procedure in an early post to tape on a screwdriver and place into position and use another screwdriver to push tab into hole while holding brake pedal down with a crutch wedged in between the pedal and emergency brake handle. I purchased more of the Toyota parts in case it fails again or friends in car club with same car need help in the future. Some type of lube on the new part I would say seems like a useful adjustment.I swapped out my factory brake switch pad today (preemptive swap) with the Toyota pad (p/n 90541-06036). Side note, I also bought the switch pad from Advance Auto (p/n N3121440809OES) - note "OES" in the p/n - and it's exactly the same as the Toyota part. The Advance Auto pad even comes in a bag labeled with the Toyota p/n 90541-06036.
Anyway, the stock pad in my 2015 GT (car was built Dec 2014, and I bought it new) is pretty flexible - not stiff or hard at all. Photos below showing my original next to the Toyota pad. When was your car built? I wonder if this brittle pad issue is on early 2015s and Ford changed the part during production. Or maybe Ford had a substitute part supplier of pads with crappy material at some time - ?.
The Toyota pad is only 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) thicker. My factory pad says "AEN 8" on it. Anyone else see a marking on their factory pad like mine that cracked and failed?
PS, for me it was a bitch to change out the pad for some reason. Putting a little Armor-All just on the part that pops in the hole to make it slick seemed to help.
Also - hint in reinstalling the brake switch - do it without pressing down the brake pedal. I installed the switch while pressing the pedal down and it didn't work (no brake lights) for some reason when the plunger was over extended. After I installed it without pressing the pedal, the brake lights worked normally.
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Good info and thanks for posting the images too!I swapped out my factory brake switch pad today (preemptive swap) with the Toyota pad (p/n 90541-06036). Side note, I also bought the switch pad from Advance Auto (p/n N3121440809OES) - note "OES" in the p/n - and it's exactly the same as the Toyota part. The Advance Auto pad even comes in a bag labeled with the Toyota p/n 90541-06036.
Anyway, the stock pad in my 2015 GT (car was built Dec 2014, and I bought it new) is pretty flexible - not stiff or hard at all. Photos below showing my original next to the Toyota pad. When was your car built? I wonder if this brittle pad issue is on early 2015s and Ford changed the part during production. Or maybe Ford had a substitute part supplier of pads with crappy material at some time - ?.
The Toyota pad is only 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) thicker. My factory pad says "AEN 8" on it. Anyone else see a marking on their factory pad like mine that cracked and failed?
PS, for me it was a bitch to change out the pad for some reason. Putting a little Armor-All just on the part that pops in the hole to make it slick seemed to help.
Also - hint in reinstalling the brake switch - do it without pressing down the brake pedal. I installed the switch while pressing the pedal down and it didn't work (no brake lights) for some reason when the plunger was over extended. After I installed it without pressing the pedal, the brake lights worked normally.
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I compared the stiffness of the original pad to the new Toyota pad and they felt very similar to me. My original factory pad seemed just as flexible as the new Toyota pad, so that made me wonder if there might be a parts supplier difference going on with the factory pads since mine also had the marking molded into the pad.
I missed seeing the post about taping the pad on a flat screwdriver, and I was thinking of a similar scheme. But found some real long and skinny needle nose pliers in my toolbox so used that to hold the pad at the base of the nipple while starting the pad nipple into the hole, then popped the pad in with a flat screw driver. Brake switch was removed, and had a friend push down on the brake pedal with a long stick so I could use both hands. It was definitely a tricky game of "twister".
Could be the factory pad gets hard and brittle with heat. My car doesn't get heat exposure like some cars in the southern states. It had some flexibility to it, so it doesn't seem to get hard with time as my GT is 6.5+ years old since being built in Dec 2014. Still think there are different variaties of these pads since mine has the "AEN 8" marking.
I was wondering how thick those magnets are? Seems if the brake switch pad is too thick that it might change when the brake lights come on when pushing the pedal down. The Toyota pad I installed was only 0.020 inch thicker than the factory pad.
The Toyota part I bought was 1/8" thick and the magnets are the same thickness. My hands were sweating so bad I couldn't hold on to anything when I was trying to change it. Being a big guy twisted up under the dash doesn't help any either.
I just looked at my 2015 GT and there is a switch on the top pad on the clutch pedal. It's hard to see because just the small black plunger of the switch can be seen. You might want to look again with a bright flashlight to confirm.
