Both Rear Wheel Bearings Failure

[Deleted member 35786]

I'm going to check the torque on the new bearings myself, hopefully Lowes has what I need.

I just don't trust it was done correctly.

What I'm wondering now, is are these bearings failing because they're not torqued correctly from the factory? Or are they just crap?

Failing at (I'll guess) 18K miles is a joke.

They do. Yea I had to tighten my rear one at just over 20K miles after I bought the car. Not sure If I would say crap, but I do think its a combination of the sheer power/torque being pushed through the shafts vs somewhat questionable quality. Not sure if other 400+hp rear wheel drive cars have similiar issues but I would say they do at some level. Camaro, Charger/Challenger, BMW, Mercedes maybe.. God forbid a bearing goes bad on a new BMW/Mercedes would cost a fortune to buy one. LOL

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[NoVaGT]

They do. Yea I had to tighten my rear one at just over 20K miles after I bought the car. Not sure If I would say crap, but I do think its a combination of the sheer power/torque being pushed through the shafts vs somewhat questionable quality. Not sure if other 400+hp rear wheel drive cars have similiar issues but I would say they do at some level. Camaro, Charger/Challenger, BMW, Mercedes maybe.. God forbid a bearing goes bad on a new BMW/Mercedes would cost a fortune to buy one. LOL

"They do"??

I'm not an engineer, but in my mind I don't see how the power of the engine would damage the wheel bearings. I can definitely understand wheel spacers or wider wheels putting more stress on the bearings though.

Since my car is on the factory wheels & tires and springs, I can't imagine why they failed. So either they're just crap manufacturing, under-sized for the application, or they didn't get torqued properly when the car was built.

Moffetts said he's replaced his multiple times, and DAVECS1 said he replaced all four wheel bearings at 3800 miles, but he does lots of track time.

So, is Moffets not getting the torque spec correct, which causes them to fail repeatedly? Did DAVECS1 get the torque spec correct, so they haven't failed again after he replaced them at 3800 miles?

 

[Deleted member 35786]

"They do"??

I'm not an engineer, but in my mind I don't see how the power of the engine would damage the wheel bearings. I can definitely understand wheel spacers or wider wheels putting more stress on the bearings though.

Since my car is on the factory wheels & tires and springs, I can't imagine why they failed. So either they're just crap manufacturing, under-sized for the application, or they didn't get torqued properly when the car was built.

Moffetts said he's replaced his multiple times, and DAVECS1 said he replaced all four wheel bearings at 3800 miles, but he does lots of track time.

So, is Moffets not getting the torque spec correct, which causes them to fail repeatedly? Did DAVECS1 get the torque spec correct, so they haven't failed again after he replaced them at 3800 miles?

Hmm.. Then I will have to side cautiously with low manufacturing standards.. Does not surprise me.

 

[DAVECS1]

When I redid my bearings I went with the Steeda recommended procedure. Use the latest spindle nuts with the washers, use red loctite and torque them to 150 ft lbs. I have about 1400 miles on the new bearings and they seem to be nice and tight still. My wheels get checked alot as I am always checking air pressure and changing tires. At this point I feel comfortable recommending the Moog stuff. Also as I have upgraded my suspension, I think the bearings will last longer, as the loads they see are more consistant. Less wheel hop, no strange negative camber gain. The car does not push and skitter the tires anymore, etc.

 

[NoVaGT]

Hmm.. Then I will have to side cautiously with low manufacturing standards.. Does not surprise me.

Checking prices, the OEM bearings are $80.

The Moog bearings are $150.

 

[NoVaGT]

When I redid my bearings I went with the Steeda recommended procedure. Use the latest spindle nuts with the washers, use red loctite and torque them to 150 ft lbs. I have about 1400 miles on the new bearings and they seem to be nice and tight still. My wheels get checked alot as I am always checking air pressure and changing tires. At this point I feel comfortable recommending the Moog stuff. Also as I have upgraded my suspension, I think the bearings will last longer, as the loads they see are more consistant. Less wheel hop, no strange negative camber gain. The car does not push and skitter the tires anymore, etc.

The torque specs I've found is 98ft/lbs + 45 degrees. Steeda suggest torquing them to 150ft/lbs? How many miles on the replacement bearings at this point?

Do the new spindle nuts and washers come with the bearings?

Thanks for the info, I figure I'll just fix this myself the next time.

 

[moffetts]

BMR recommends 150 plus 1/8, which is well over 150 obviously. I’ve never seen steeda’s recommendation on this, so there is probably some crossed wires:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...k-those-axle-to-spindle-retaining-nuts.78909/

Yes, my rears have been replaced multiple (at least 4) times. Twice under warranty and at least twice in my garage. To be fair, at least one of those iterations was torqued very, very tight (north of 300 ft lbs) but they would click and pop at anything less. I ended up replacing both sides, again, and the half shafts and torquing them to 250 ish. No issues since.

 

[NoVaGT]

BMR recommends 150 plus 1/8, which is well over 150 obviously. I’ve never seen steeda’s recommendation on this, so there is probably some crossed wires:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...k-those-axle-to-spindle-retaining-nuts.78909/

Yes, my tears have been replaced multiple (at least 4) times. Twice under warranty and at least twice in my garage. To be fair, at least one of those iterations was torqued very, very tight (north of 300 ft lbs) but they would click and pop at anything less. I ended up replacing both sides, again, and the half shafts and torquing them to 250 ish. No issues since.

 

[moffetts]

The golden BMR standard is 150 plus 1/8, which is a lot more than 150. Whatever, it works.

 

[DAVECS1]

I forgot to add the 1/8th, I apologize. There is a pretty good thread on here and that procedure seems to be pretty well accepted amongst those who track their cars, as I have heard it from several of my S550 track mates, while sharing tips and tricks for car prep. Like I have said I have down several road course sessions, a couple autocrosses since the replacement and everything is solid.

 

[AeroFox87]

Has anyone had issues with dealer and suspension mods when they replace these? My 17 GT only has 5500 miles on it, but doesnt have this issue(yet) but this is one of the only things that worry me. I plan on doing eibach sportline springs and a lot of Steeda IRS parts, along with some R350 19x10s on the back, I dont see how a dealer could refuse warranty work on my car as long as the wheels are same dimensions as the PP2 or GT350R or any wheel offered from 18 inch all the way up to 20 with max width being 11 in the rear. All 2015-2019 Mustangs use the same hub in the rear, so I mean if I have a lighter and more narrower wheel, what could they really say? Anyone have to pay to have it fixed at all? Curious.

 

[ctandc72]

Checking prices, the OEM bearings are $80.

The Moog bearings are $150.

FYI RockAuto has the Moog front bearings for $54 + shipping and the rears for $60 + shipping.

 

[DAVECS1]

I ponied up for new bearings. How can Ford predict what components will and will not affect part degredation, if they did not design and test with them. Just because the parts are the same form and function does not mean they are the same quality.

 

[Intrepid175]

The wheels & tires are stock sizes, I've never tracked the car. It does have some Steeda suspension stuff (sig line), but the clunking from the rear-end (that I'm assuming is from the bearings) pre-dates the suspension up-grades. They're being replaced under warranty.

Why on earth would both my rear wheel bearings fail?

Is this a known issue?

As others have said, It's not uncommon. I bought a 2016 GT used. The car was 17 months old with 6600 miles on it when I picked it up. At about 17k miles, I noticed the rear tires looked a bit off. Checking them out a little closer, I discovered that both rear tires were worn down to the cord all the way around on the inside edge. Needless to way, I wasn't happy. I put a new set of tires on it and had a four wheel alignment done at an independent shop that I've used for years. The front end was find. The rear wheels were off in every adjustment they could be off in and all of it was in a direction that would scrub the inner edges off the tires. After the work was done, the rear end started howling like crazy. I finally dropped it off at the dealer and they wound up replacing the rear wheel bearing, both sides, under warranty. Since then, I've put another 10k miles on the car ans so far, so good. It is blissfully quiet and the tires are looking good. At the time, I was thinking the rear end was probably out of alignment from the beginning and that may have contributed to the bearing failure if they had been side loaded from the misalignment all that time. I hadn't considered that they might have been improperly torqued. I think that'll be something to keep an eye on.

Good luck with yours!

 

[tamer10389]

Thanks for the suggestion. If I end up replacing them myself in the future, I'll look into Timken.

I'd guess these bearings failed at about 18K miles, because I've been chasing the clunking noise for about a year now.

That's assuming the clunking noise was the bearings.

Taking mine in Thursday for what I suspect is the same issue. Started 2-3 weeks ago & it's got 19,768 miles. I haven't pushed it past any limits, no racing...just normal commuting. Very disappointing. Ironically this happens on the very week I finish paying it off. Finished payments Monday (yesterday), putting it in the shop Thursday...SMH

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