Bossdog
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2016
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- Location
- SE Michigan
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 GT PP2
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- #1
I like the idea of not having your rear suspension bind due to fixed bushings, so I decided to replace the rear camber link and Vertical links in my 2019 PP2. I'm most of the way through the UAC761 adjustable camber arm and WAK761 camber lock out install and wanted to share a little of my experience.
Its well documented that there is VERY little space to make this installation if you are not going to drop the rear cradle. If you have the tools and the skills, definitely drop the rear cradle to perform this WAK761 install. My guess is most of us don't have the skills nor tools to drop the cradle so these comments are for those of us performing this install with the cradle in place. Its a serious PITA but it can be done.
First, my WAK761 lock out bracket sat too low and prevented the bracket holes from lining up with the factory slot. a 1/16th thick washer between the bracket and the frame would have worked fine but I already had the lock nut in place and fully removing it with the VERY limited space would have been very time consuming so I purchased a 1/2" wide x 1/16th thick piece of aluminum from HD and cut shims, loosened the nut and slid one shim between the bracket and the frame each side of the bolt. This Lifted the holes up to match the factory slot. If I were to do this again I get a thin "gear" lock washer to go under the Poly lock nut. Why? its really hard to crank that nut given the limited/awkward space available and would have given an additional resistance to slip.
Next tip, Tighten down the WAK761 nut with the Camber arm bolt in place. Once its as tight as you can get, you can take the bolt out and and install the arm. If you're doing this without a second set of hands, I cut a wood spacer to slide in below the 19mm wrench that holds the Lockout bracket bolt. I used a piece of left-over furring strip, 5/8 thick and 1.5' wide, Slide the open end box wrench through the opening holding the closed end, place the closed end over nut head and slide the spacer under the nut + wrench. This way the unused end of the wrench is under the car and out of your way while you crank on the lock nut on top and the wrench won't fall off.
I tried to install the UCA762 arm in the outboard hole of the lock out as it provide the best arm travel clearance (by far). In the outboard hole the best camber I could get is zero. I could not get into the negatives and I'm shooting for -2. No big surprise, the inboard hole is for negative camber. I thought I'd try as the inboard lockout hole has travel clearance issues with everything, frame, fuel filler bracket bolt, wires and hoses. Its all manageable but, again, a PITA getting all that "stuff" out of the way.
When you go to install the inboard side of the arm, reverse the insertion of the bolt from factory, enter the side toward the rear of the vehicle, sliding it in toward the front, this leaves more space to tighten that nut.
2 tools that help tightening the inboard arm bolt: 1) a shallow/low profile allen wrench and a Serpentine belt 2-piece breaker bar with crow foot socket. ( it helped with removal also)The bar I bought has a few crow foot open end wrench sockets but did not go up to 18mm so you have to buy that as well. There are other ways to tighten that nut but I found this to be the easiest given the limited space, especially if you want to get to the 105 ft/lbs BMR recommends
I hope that helps someone.
Its well documented that there is VERY little space to make this installation if you are not going to drop the rear cradle. If you have the tools and the skills, definitely drop the rear cradle to perform this WAK761 install. My guess is most of us don't have the skills nor tools to drop the cradle so these comments are for those of us performing this install with the cradle in place. Its a serious PITA but it can be done.
First, my WAK761 lock out bracket sat too low and prevented the bracket holes from lining up with the factory slot. a 1/16th thick washer between the bracket and the frame would have worked fine but I already had the lock nut in place and fully removing it with the VERY limited space would have been very time consuming so I purchased a 1/2" wide x 1/16th thick piece of aluminum from HD and cut shims, loosened the nut and slid one shim between the bracket and the frame each side of the bolt. This Lifted the holes up to match the factory slot. If I were to do this again I get a thin "gear" lock washer to go under the Poly lock nut. Why? its really hard to crank that nut given the limited/awkward space available and would have given an additional resistance to slip.
Next tip, Tighten down the WAK761 nut with the Camber arm bolt in place. Once its as tight as you can get, you can take the bolt out and and install the arm. If you're doing this without a second set of hands, I cut a wood spacer to slide in below the 19mm wrench that holds the Lockout bracket bolt. I used a piece of left-over furring strip, 5/8 thick and 1.5' wide, Slide the open end box wrench through the opening holding the closed end, place the closed end over nut head and slide the spacer under the nut + wrench. This way the unused end of the wrench is under the car and out of your way while you crank on the lock nut on top and the wrench won't fall off.
I tried to install the UCA762 arm in the outboard hole of the lock out as it provide the best arm travel clearance (by far). In the outboard hole the best camber I could get is zero. I could not get into the negatives and I'm shooting for -2. No big surprise, the inboard hole is for negative camber. I thought I'd try as the inboard lockout hole has travel clearance issues with everything, frame, fuel filler bracket bolt, wires and hoses. Its all manageable but, again, a PITA getting all that "stuff" out of the way.
When you go to install the inboard side of the arm, reverse the insertion of the bolt from factory, enter the side toward the rear of the vehicle, sliding it in toward the front, this leaves more space to tighten that nut.
2 tools that help tightening the inboard arm bolt: 1) a shallow/low profile allen wrench and a Serpentine belt 2-piece breaker bar with crow foot socket. ( it helped with removal also)The bar I bought has a few crow foot open end wrench sockets but did not go up to 18mm so you have to buy that as well. There are other ways to tighten that nut but I found this to be the easiest given the limited space, especially if you want to get to the 105 ft/lbs BMR recommends
I hope that helps someone.
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