The Ultimate: BMR's New UCA762 Adjustable Rear Camber Links!

[BMR Tech]

BMR-UCA762 Rear S550 Adjustable Upper Camber Links

Since 2014, we have been testing and improving key areas within the S550's suspension and chassis system. Never one's to rest on our laurels, we decided to proceed with developing a unique and industry leading design for the S550's rear camber links.

Our first release for camber links were fixed length versions that were designed with lowered cars in mind. Being longer than the stock links, they have helped thousands of S550 owners to achieve their desired camber settings after modifying (ride heights) - or even stock height cars looking for optimal drag race performance.

Over the past few years we have seen an increase in demand for an on-car adjustable camber link. After analyzing the available options and seeing a void, we chose go ahead develop these new UCA762 links.

These UCA762 links are CNC machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum and finished in an extremely high quality black anodized coating. The inside subframe mounts feature high-durometer BMR specific polyurethane bushings with internal flutes for grease coverage and house 6061 CNC machined pivot sleeves. We top it off with easily accessible grease fittings for long-term bushing life and low NVH levels. The outboard side features a BMR specific designed high-strength adjuster and an overly strong chrome-moly 3/4" Teflon Lined Rod-End.The tapered spindle mount spacers are CNC machined from high quality 303SS.

The BMR design lessens the loads on the small diameter adjusters. We have seen too many issues with placing the adjusters close to the center of the arm and were not willing to risk it. This UCA762 was designed to operate without binding and without the end user having to worry about strength.

Below are images of the product, as well as an image showing the maximum ranges when paired with our WAK761 Camber Lockout Kits.

The UCA762 is priced competitively at $399.95 and is shipping NOW!

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[Norm Peterson]

So what you're saying with 'slope' is that camber is MORE sensitive to changes in ride height when the slope number is lower?


Norm

 

[BmacIL]

So what you're saying with 'slope' is that camber is MORE sensitive to changes in ride height when the slope number is lower?


Norm

It's showing, as expected, that with the lock in the outer position, there is more camber change with ride height change.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Also greater with the adjustment 'out' at either lock position, just not as much different as between the lock positions.


Norm

 

[Coyote Red]

I am at -1.6 camber in Coyote Red but the front camber is only -1.1 . I guess I need camber plates to achieve anything more. Firestone can't get the front anymore than -1.1. After research, it seems that is all I need for the S550 platform. Explain better why my pony needs this modification? Norm?

 

[BmacIL]

I am at -1.6 camber in Coyote Red but the front camber is only -1.1 . I guess I need camber plates to achieve anything more. Firestone can't get the front anymore than -1.1. After research, it seems that is all I need for the S550 platform. Explain better why my pony needs this modification? Norm?

This combined with the camber locks allows for an easily on-car adjustable camber link that won't slip from cornering or impact loads, and has a very robust design from a load path perspective. The stock setup has a propensity for slipping in the slot.

This was for competition-oriented folks that need the fine and quick adjustability.

I would suggest camber plates or bolts when you replace your dampers so that you can increase your front camber to around -1.5.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I am at -1.6 camber in Coyote Red but the front camber is only -1.1 . I guess I need camber plates to achieve anything more. Firestone can't get the front anymore than -1.1. After research, it seems that is all I need for the S550 platform. Explain better why my pony needs this modification? Norm?

Assuming that you're only talking about the front alignment . . . I'm a little confused about Firestone not being able to get more than -1.1° camber up front on what I'm taking to be a slightly lowered Mustang.

At any rate, -1.1° is pretty close to factory preferred, which you can take as being what Ford determined would be suitable for factory stock Mustangs driven in more or less average fashion on the street. It'd work, but probably wouldn't be optimum for your driving given that you've done other suspension mods.


Norm

 

[Coyote Red]

Thanks Norm for the reply, & yea is weird about the front, I did progressive SVE springs that are much like Eibach pro kit. Advertized at 1.5 " front drop and 1 1/4" rear. I also have the camber bolts. 2 Firestones tried to get me past -1.3 camber but could not. The drop may be the cause. I may try once more at a different shop to confirm the situation. Or fix it.

 

[ugstang17]

Good stuff Kelly! BMR is at the top of the game as usual.

 

[BmacIL]

Thanks Norm for the reply, & yea is weird about the front, I did progressive SVE springs that are much like Eibach pro kit. Advertized at 1.5 " front drop and 1 1/4" rear. I also have the camber bolts. 2 Firestones tried to get me past -1.3 camber but could not. The drop may be the cause. I may try once more at a different shop to confirm the situation. Or fix it.

The drop alone should get you close to -2 deg. I am wondering if the camber bolts are installed improperly.

 

[SteveW]

Edit... NVM questions I have now deleted. That's what I get for reading charts on a tiny smartphone screen.

Cool part. Definitely interested :-)

 

[BMR Tech]

To clarify, the "height" portion of the chart is from the center of the wheel to fender.

 

[ugstang17]

To clarify, the "height" portion of the chart is from the center of the wheel to fender.

Center of hub to lip of fender is pretty clear Kelly.

 

[Coyote Red]

Thanks BmacIL, I'll check into that as well. Pony drives straight and corners very well as is. -1.1 front, -1.7 rear.

 

[BmacIL]

Thanks BmacIL, I'll check into that as well. Pony drives straight and corners very well as is. -1.1 front, -1.7 rear.

Normally I'd recommend nearly flipping them. -1.5-1.7 front, -1.2-1.4 rear is a great spirited street alignment. For autocross and track work, add 0.5 more neg camber all around at a minimum, and preferably up to around -2.5 front.

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