Best pistons / rods for Coyote gen 3

[phsc84]

Hi folks

Do you have any recommendations regarding the best pistons / rods for a Coyote gen 3, that is intended to remain naturally aspirated? The target is about 500-550 hp. No need for 2000 hp.

The following criteria should apply:
- price does not matter
- as light as possible
- as long lasting as possible
- cylinders will be Darton sleeved

Thank you and regards

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[Decible]

It’s all personal preference but I’ve always used JE pistons/Carrillo rods with nice 7/16 bolts. JE has a nice “ultimate” FSR piston that comes standard with some nice goodies. If going FI invest in the upgraded wrist pins.

PS - call both companies tell them your long term goals and desired power levels and they will get you what you need.

 

[EFI]

The target is about 500-550 hp naturally aspirated .

Stock, end thread. And why a sleeved block for N/A?

But if you must build it, K1 rods are the lightest I've seen at 596 grams and they come with 7/16 bolts. Mahle powerpack pistons are strong and lightweight, you don't need 2618 pistons for this.

 

[LxMike]

Plenty of engines making above those numbers on the stock short block and heads.

 

[White_Bear_92]

Genuine question. Why? I feel like this is money much better spent somewhere else. Stock rods and pistons can handle several hundred horsepower over that no problem.

 

[phsc84]

I want the best and most durable naturally aspirated engine. I have no interest in supercharging it, because I love the characteristics of a naturally aspirated engine (you have to work more with them, because they simply don't always have plenty of power).

 

[phsc84]

And thanks everybody for your hints!

@EFI
The Mahle pistons are quite interesting. They seem to be one of the lightest pistons for the Coyote out there.

 

[Racinjason65]

Winberg for the lightest, strongest crank.

 

[WildHorse]

Saenz titanium connecting rods & Mahle custom spec'd pistons.

 

[EFI]

I want the best and most durable naturally aspirated engine.

Read this article on the durability testing the Coyote went through. Quoted below the relevant part.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/m5lp-1003-2011-ford-mustang-gt-50-coyote-engine/

Engines run fatigue cycles equivalent to 62 Daytona 500 races. Others replicate customer drive cycles for 1,000 running hours to include 1,000 cold starts, plus hitting its peak torque and power for sustained periods. That test alone runs 100 hours a week for two and a half months.

We witnessed another torture session where the engine was run at WOT for several minutes, the headers glowing just a hint of red, then the engine shut off and after several seconds of sitting, -20 degree ice water was forced through the cooling system. Frost formed on the test rig as the engine was about frozen to death, then the ice water stopped, the engine started and after a handful of seconds idling was taken back to max rpm, max load for another heat cycle up to 225 degrees. Each complete cycle takes about 10 minutes, and the engine must survive days of these non-stop thermal shocks.

Most incredibly, "It can't be on its last legs at the end of the test."

 

[Zrussian13]

The coyote was built to abuse. If it's not broken, don't fix it. Especially if staying NA.

 

[VictorH]

If you want your N/A engine to really "come alive" then go for Ti Rods. I've used the Pauter chrome moly rods and they are absolutely bullet proof. I'd suggest you ask them about a custom Titanium rod.
https://pauter.com/

 

[Sins550]

I can understand your vision with the pistons and rods, but id' use the sleeve money on something else honestly.

 

[Cory S]

If your honestly going to stay under 600whp/550tq, the only thing you should do is a good set of pistons.

 

[EFI]

the only thing you should do is a good set of pistons.

Why do you say that N/A the stock pistons wont be up to the task (as long as he doesn't rev it to the moon)?

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