BBQ Tick After Oil Change...

[Nemesys]

wait...was this Wade Ford in Georgia? If so, oh boyyyyyyyyyyyyy lol Have I got a story to tell. I stopped going there a long time ago.

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[ScottsGT]

My plan is to do my own oil change at around 2500 miles. Using a Motorcraft FL-500S oil filter and Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend oil. Will let the oil drain just long enough until it's a slow drip, then install the new filter and install the drain plug and fill it back up. Not going to let the oil drain over night like I usually do on my vehicles, since I don't want to take a chance of the hydraulic lifters bleeding down, which could be the cause of the "tick after oil change". Don't know what else you can do. :shrug:

That's not how it works. Sounds like you need a basic understanding of a few things.
While your motor is not running, the oil is in the pan. If left to sit overnight with the drain plug in or out, the oil will drain out of the lifters if they are going to do this since they are on the top of the engine.
It does not matter if the oil is in the pan or not, lifters are going to do their thing. They are not in the pan soaking in oil all the time. The system is not pressurized when not running.
A lifter will bleed down if it is going to regardless of the motors oil level while parked.

If you pull the drain plug and allow it to sit overnight all you are doing is allowing the oil in the pan to completely drain out and then oil from the rest of the motor drain down, which it will do anyway after parked.

I usually change my oil first thing in the morning before I crank the car up. This way all the old stuff has drained down, and I don't get the hot oil down my arm as I remove the filter.

My old '95 GT with the Windsor pushrod motor had issues of a lifter leaking down if I let it sit for a week. Every time we went on vacation I would come home to a rattle trap for the first few seconds when I cranked it up to go to work on Monday morning.
Once it I didn't watch the oil level and had one leak down overnight and it almost sounded like a rod knock it was so bad. Didn't go away until I actually drove it (after adding oil) around the block that morning. I was in panic mode thinking I had wiped a rod bearing, but I got another 20K-30K miles before the car was totaled.

 

[GT Pony]

That's not how it works. Sounds like you need a basic understanding of a few things.
While your motor is not running, the oil is in the pan. If left to sit overnight with the drain plug in or out, the oil will drain out of the lifters if they are going to do this since they are on the top of the engine.

Ummm, you might want to rethink that. When you remove the OIL FILTER, you are draining all the oil galleries also, and it might be possible for lifters to drain depending on their design. I wouldn't want to drain the sump and remove the filter and let it drain that way over night. When the filter is installed and the engine is off, the anti-drain back valve prevents all the oil galleries from draining down, and hence prevents any chance the lifters could lose oil.

 

[ScottsGT]

Wrong. Lifters will retain their oil with internal valving. I've pumped plenty of them up manually building while engines and they sat for days or months before cranking up and we're still pumped up. Besides, draining the oil from the pan was in question, nothing was ever mentioned about removing the filter overnight.

 

[MikeyPee]

Brought my GT in for the Coyote tick and was told it's normal, like I figured I would be told lol

 

[Asharus]

so we have two BBQ ticking coyotes now?

 

[GT Pony]

Wrong. Lifters will retain their oil with internal valving. I've pumped plenty of them up manually building while engines and they sat for days or months before cranking up and we're still pumped up.

You mean like these?

My old '95 GT with the Windsor pushrod motor had issues of a lifter leaking down if I let it sit for a week. Every time we went on vacation I would come home to a rattle trap for the first few seconds when I cranked it up to go to work on Monday morning.

Besides, draining the oil from the pan was in question, nothing was ever mentioned about removing the filter overnight.

Well, that IS part of draining the oil during an oil change.

And beside, WHAT ELSE could cause a tick after JUST doing an oil change and using the same oil and filter? Leaking down lifters that can't prime and pump fully back up is very suspect to me. And it always seems to be coming from the driver's side, which is the side the oil filter is mounted on the engine.

 

[astolt12]

Brought my GT in for the Coyote tick and was told it's normal, like I figured I would be told lol

MikeyPee you got it too?

 

[astolt12]

And beside, WHAT ELSE could cause a tick after JUST doing an oil change and using the same oil and filter? Leaking down lifters that can't prime and pump fully back up is very suspect to me. And it always seems to be coming from the driver's side, which is the side the oil filter is mounted on the engine.

So I know very little about lifters GT Pony but you have been very amendment that it could be a culprit so i've tried doing some homework on the topic and still am not 100% sure I understand.

The lifters use oil to act as some sort of cushion between the moving parts, but this oil is stored in an encasement correct?

So draining the oil out of the pan could potentially drain these units if left out for a long time? However once the system is pressurized it should re-fill them unless one of them is faulty causing the tick?

Forgive my lack of knowledge on this but im intrigued to say the least.

 

[GT Pony]

So I know very little about lifters GT Pony but you have been very amendment that it could be a culprit so i've tried doing some homework on the topic and still am not 100% sure I understand.

The lifters use oil to act as some sort of cushion between the moving parts, but this oil is stored in an encasement correct?

So draining the oil out of the pan could potentially drain these units if left out for a long time? However once the system is pressurized it should re-fill them unless one of them is faulty causing the tick?

Forgive my lack of knowledge on this but im intrigued to say the least.

Yes, that's pretty much what you described above. The lifters would be more apt to drain down while the oil filter is off and all the oil galleries drain the oil down and out though the filter mount.

I just find it very strange that this tick magically appears after an oil change. Depending on the design of the lifters, they could bleed down and not want to pump back up very well.

Another theory is that the 5W-20 oil is just too thin when at full operating temperature. People say the factory fill oil is exactly the same 5W-30 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, but who really knows for sure unless we have a Ford engineer on this board to confirm that. IF the tick is caused by thin oil when hot, then trying some 5W-30 would prove if that is the reason for the tick.

 

[astolt12]

Update:

Coming home from work i made a few errands and noticed when I parked in the parking garage it still ticked, but seemingly after a few seconds it went away. The car was still hot.

however, when driving out of the parking garage I could heard that damn slapping bouncing off the walls as i feathered the clutch in first - i've never noticed this before because moving forward is generally on an open road, not city streets.

So this ticking can replicate with AC on, at idle in nuetral and now when feather a clutch (first and reverse). Not ruling out the chance it happens in the other gears but i just cannot hear it.

Ive got the extended warranty but damn, this is annoying.

 

[GT Pony]

So this ticking can replicate with AC on, at idle in nuetral and now when feather a clutch (first and reverse). Not ruling out the chance it happens in the other gears but i just cannot hear it.

Typically, when you can make an engine tick come and go with varying loads (ie, AC on/off or slight clutch engagement on/off) then it more likely a bearing of some sort that is making noise based on the load.

I still think someone with the tick should try 5W-30 weight oil. I looked at 5W-30 weight oils at the store last night and they meet the Ford spec, so shouldn't be any problem running it. The owner's manual also says that 5W-30 is an optional oil weight.

I don't recall anyone reporting that they have the engine tick when the car is running before the oil gets fully hot ... that would correlate to the oil being too thin when hot, so trying a 5W-30 might just make the tick go away when the engine is hot.

 

[Strokerswild]

Engineer OCD kicking in: technically they aren't lifters, guys, rather lash adjusters; they are stationary in the head and just provide pressure to one end of the cam followers to keep the roller in said follower in contact with the cam. ;)

But functionally they operate similar to a lifter in that they rely on oil pressure to work properly. They're pretty small on the 5.0 too....

I planned to bump to 5W-30 at 1,000 miles when I change oil for the first time since it's an approved alternate. Based on what I've read one of the main reasons for many manufacturers to change to 5W-20 as of the last few years is for them to eke out every tenth of a MPG to bump their CAFE numbers. I've always been a fan of a little more viscosity.....

 

[GT Pony]

Engineer OCD kicking in: technically they aren't lifters, guys, rather lash adjusters; they are stationary in the head and just provide pressure to one end of the cam followers to keep the roller in said follower in contact with the cam. ;)

But functionally they operate similar to a lifter in that they rely on oil pressure to work properly. They're pretty small on the 5.0 too....

True ... but if they don't work correctly they can cause valve train ticking just like old fashioned "hydraulic lifters".

I planned to bump to 5W-30 at 1,000 miles when I change oil for the first time since it's an approved alternate. Based on what I've read one of the main reasons for many manufacturers to change to 5W-20 as of the last few years is for them to eke out every tenth of a MPG to bump their CAFE numbers. I've always been a fan of a little more viscosity.....

Yep, if my 5.0 develops the ticking, the first thing I'll try is 5W-30 oil that meets the Ford spec.

 

[StangMan04]

My 2013 Mustang GT developed the tick after switching to Amsoil w/Amsoil filter from Mobil 1 5w-30 w/ Motorcraft filter.

I had no ticks with Mobil 1 but in switching to Amsoil full synthetic it developed the tick. Since Mobil 1 is a blend and not a true full synthetic, my belief is oil being too thin.

Took my 2013 and they could not find an issue, but I heard it and knew it was there.

Unfortunately my car was rear-ended and totaled in March, so I no longer have it. But, I know the feeling of having the tick. I wouldn't worry too much about it since many have had it in the 2011-2014 coyotes and I never heard an issue coming from it besides the annoying sound.

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