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BAP with Whipple Stage 2?

desant89

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Just curious how many people are using a BAP with a Whipple stage 2 kit? If so, how much power do you have?

I have a KB BAP that I bought, but did not install it. Kind of do not want to as I have read a lot of stories about pumps burning up early due to using a BAP. I know my tuner would prefer to have one even though fueling looks "ok". I have Whipple stage 2 w/3.635 pulley, headers with off road pipe, and axle back exhaust. No dyno yet, but soon. Thoughts?
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Superman15

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How often do you plan to be up over 7,200 RPM's? If the answer is "pretty often" then you should throw it on there for sure. If it is a daily driver that is very rarely ever going to see those RPM's then there is no need. My car has seen that RPM range one time. On the dyno. So I have zero plans to add one. If at some point I start taking it to the track, and am running it hard into the higher RPM's, then I will put one on there.
 

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Just curious how many people are using a BAP with a Whipple stage 2 kit? If so, how much power do you have?

I have a KB BAP that I bought, but did not install it. Kind of do not want to as I have read a lot of stories about pumps burning up early due to using a BAP. I know my tuner would prefer to have one even though fueling looks "ok". I have Whipple stage 2 w/3.635 pulley, headers with off road pipe, and axle back exhaust. No dyno yet, but soon. Thoughts?
I do not run one with my Whipple(2.9, 3.625 pulley with fans, Whipple latest tune) I only have a Borla catback. dyno (737/552) There are no more upgrades with power as far as i am concerned, that is enough for me for a daily driver. I already had an issue on a previous thread where the car had some issues with codes and cam sensors, misfires etc. Car was gone way too long. I do not track and is a daily driver. I do not want to or need to push this motor to its limits. I think that is enough for me.......for now until the next big thing comes out. While my car was in the shop I did test drive a corvette z06 (650/650) beautiful car but at 88k is a little out of my price range for a car.:)
 
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desant89

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I do not run one with my Whipple(2.9, 3.625 pulley with fans, Whipple latest tune) I only have a Borla catback. dyno (737/552) There are no more upgrades with power as far as i am concerned, that is enough for me for a daily driver. I already had an issue on a previous thread where the car had some issues with codes and cam sensors, misfires etc. Car was gone way too long. I do not track and is a daily driver. I do not want to or need to push this motor to its limits. I think that is enough for me.......for now until the next big thing comes out. While my car was in the shop I did test drive a corvette z06 (650/650) beautiful car but at 88k is a little out of my price range for a car.:)
That's some major hp! Not sure where I will end up, but I did get a custom tune. My tuner says fuel is Ok, but if it were his car, he definitely would run one. If not, I'm playing with fire. Now I'm sure his tune is more aggressive than the Whipple tune so perhaps that matters. My understanding is that the bap does not come into play unless it's needed. Well, read that online anyway. I will hit the track maybe a couple of times, and that's about it. I guess if it's only used when necessary, mine won't be in use much, which I guess is OK. I already have the pump so maybe I should use it.
 

Superman15

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BAP's are each different. Some are on at all times, like the VMP. The voltage is constant. Others, like the JMS, are gas pedal oriented, and only come on as you near WOT. I do not know how the KB one works personally.
 

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desant89

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BAP's are each different. Some are on at all times, like the VMP. The voltage is constant. Others, like the JMS, are gas pedal oriented, and only come on as you near WOT. I do not know how the KB one works personally.
Just found this on their site:

It activates only at full throttle or boost, so it doesn’t “bloat” or “overload” the fuel system at idle or cruise where full time pumps and extra fuel are not required. So, the fuel isn’t heated (gasoline begins to boil at 87°). No “cool can” is necessary. And it’s much easier to install (cut one wire) and more reliable than fuel pumps. And since the BAP is also a voltage regulator (exclusive kb) it helps prevent engine damage from low voltage/ reduced pump flow during electrical overload or failure. It will attempt to stabilize the pump voltage and maintain sufficient fuel flow.
 

Superman15

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Just found this on their site:

It activates only at full throttle or boost, so it doesn’t “bloat” or “overload” the fuel system at idle or cruise where full time pumps and extra fuel are not required. So, the fuel isn’t heated (gasoline begins to boil at 87°). No “cool can” is necessary. And it’s much easier to install (cut one wire) and more reliable than fuel pumps. And since the BAP is also a voltage regulator (exclusive kb) it helps prevent engine damage from low voltage/ reduced pump flow during electrical overload or failure. It will attempt to stabilize the pump voltage and maintain sufficient fuel flow.
Cool :D
 
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desant89

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Next thing is, I have to find out where to connect the switch to the Whipple SC discharge, and confirm the Fuel pump wire and location to install the BAP.
 
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desant89

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Ok, all done. Piece of cake. Travis had great instructions in here, and even fielded a call from me. Great guy!
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