Autocross First Time Out

[wasserott]

2017 - Stock tires, alignment, everything...even the oil is original

DOCWalt thanks for your tips last night, i didn't even know how to turn off all the nannies but finally figured that out too. I ended up running in full track mode after trying Track with sport shock settings. Just too bouncy in sport.

Ordinarily i run my Z06 with sticky tires, wanted to see if this was as fun on course as it is on the street. By comparison, no torque, pushes like crazy and heavy as heck but it sounds awesome!!! Need some RE71's next year if i want to run it more competitively.

Enjoy!

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[DocWalt]

Looks good.

RE-71Rs wake the car up. It's much more enjoyable to drive even on the street when you're not always hitting traction control... The push goes away too, and camber helps a lot too.

CAM class is calling my name, but I'll campaign it in AS for a while

 

[wasserott]

Tires and Camber would make a big difference. To camber right, you need plates, otherwise you are elongating a whole on the strut mount to gain correct?

Looks good.

RE-71Rs wake the car up. It's much more enjoyable to drive even on the street when you're not always hitting traction control... The push goes away too, and camber helps a lot too.

CAM class is calling my name, but I'll campaign it in AS for a while

 

[Zitrosounds]

Tires and Camber would make a big difference. To camber right, you need plates, otherwise you are elongating a whole on the strut mount to gain correct?

CAMBER!!!!!! push goes away! The oem alignment is for street driving and therefore inherent to push. You do not need plates. Camber bolts will get you up to -2.5. The only concern is if you change offset or go wider wheel or tire with camber bolts is wheel to strut contact. I have used the BMR bolts on both my Track Pack and my R with great sucess and lots of track time.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1585

 

[TheDeadCow]

CAMBER!!!!!! push goes away! The oem alignment is for street driving and therefore inherent to push. You do not need plates. Camber bolts will get you up to -2.7. The only concern is if you change offset or go wider wheel or tire with camber bolts is wheel to strut contact. I have used the BMR bolts on both my Track Pack and my R with great sucess and lots of track time.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1585

+1

Well said. There's a night and day handling difference between street/track alignment.

 

[DocWalt]

Tires and Camber would make a big difference. To camber right, you need plates, otherwise you are elongating a whole on the strut mount to gain correct?

There are factory service bolts (non-splined bolts of a slightly smaller diameter, P/N: -W715295-S439) that bump camber to about -1.45 or so, then you elongate the upper hole 1mm inward and I'm at -1.9 or so now. All street class legal

CAMBER!!!!!! push goes away! The oem alignment is for street driving and therefore inherent to push. You do not need plates. Camber bolts will get you up to -2.5. The only concern is if you change offset or go wider wheel or tire with camber bolts is wheel to strut contact. I have used the BMR bolts on both my Track Pack and my R with great sucess and lots of track time.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1585

Welcome to CAM class with any of those mods... They are the easy button though, especially since the GT350 isn't that competitive in street class anyway.

I definitely agree that alignment makes a BIG difference to these cars. The OEM -1.1 camber is pretty lame... :( A tiny bit of toe out and more camber and the front end really wakes up. It makes the car feel a lot lighter on its feet and balances the car out in sweepers.

 

[Zitrosounds]

I forget about autocross rules. I rarely autocross and mostly do road course work and camber bolts is the quickest and most affordable option. I did not mean to mislead anyone, sorry.

 

[nastang87xx]

You have some serious brass...lol. Shift out of 1st. There's a lot of places where you should be on the gas and you weren't because, you just weren't able to put the power down. Also a front sway bar at mid or full stiff really helps turn in too. That's AS legal.

 

[DocWalt]

I'm not convinced that going past medium is faster at autocross... I'll be buying a BMR bar this winter though to find out

 

[Mach4.6]

Before I went coilover, I ran an Eibach front bar full stiff and a standard v6 Mustang rr bar
it worked pretty good. Tried the front on medium and it wasn't as good

 

[DocWalt]

Before I went coilover, I ran an Eibach front bar full stiff and a standard v6 Mustang rr bar
it worked pretty good. Tried the front on medium and it wasn't as good

Do you know how much stiffer an Eibach bar is over OEM? I can't find useful info... I've just been assuming it's essentially the same as the BMR bar.

 

[Steeda Tech JohnC]

You have some serious brass...lol. Shift out of 1st. There's a lot of places where you should be on the gas and you weren't because, you just weren't able to put the power down. Also a front sway bar at mid or full stiff really helps turn in too. That's AS legal.

Agreed 100%, get a bigger adjustable front bar in the car and get to one of the top teir 200tw tires, BFG rivals, Bridgestone RE71R, or the new Nexen SUR4g has had a couple good showings(they won 1st in STU at nats, but bryan was driving the car and he is a freakishly good driver)

We have a 4 way adjustable front bar with billet ends for ultimate durability that works for you https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-front-sway-bar-2015-555-1015.html

Let me know if you would like one, Ill take care of you on it

 

[DocWalt]

Having driven the Nexens too (quite successfully, I'll add), I'd love for them to be offered in a size that works on the GT350. Tons of fun to drive on and super forgiving.

[MENTION=32546]Steeda Tech JohnC[/MENTION] , what's the stiffness compared to the stock bar?

I'm trying to decide what bar I want to run next year, even if I don't run the GT350 at national events. I have the "free" mod to the stock bar which is noticeably stiffer, but I'm not sure it made the car any faster. It just pushes a little more in sweepers and transitions a little faster. I've been told to run an aftermarket bar and go full stiff but that will just make sweepers worse... but then it's easily adjustable and I can go softer if it's a sweeper based course

 

[nastang87xx]

I'm not convinced that going past medium is faster at autocross... I'll be buying a BMR bar this winter though to find out

I'm not either but I leave it on full stiff hashtagbecausetoolazytoadjust. However on a road course I go full soft on my BMR bar which is 28% stiffer than the factory bar plus better bushings. Too stiff on road courses makes the car very twitchy mid corner. I'll never go full stiff on a road courses the way I'm set up right now. It way overcompensates the front end.

 

[Steeda Tech JohnC]

Having driven the Nexens too (quite successfully, I'll add), I'd love for them to be offered in a size that works on the GT350. Tons of fun to drive on and super forgiving.

[MENTION=32546]Steeda Tech JohnC[/MENTION] , what's the stiffness compared to the stock bar?

I'm trying to decide what bar I want to run next year, even if I don't run the GT350 at national events. I have the "free" mod to the stock bar which is noticeably stiffer, but I'm not sure it made the car any faster. It just pushes a little more in sweepers and transitions a little faster. I've been told to run an aftermarket bar and go full stiff but that will just make sweepers worse... but then it's easily adjustable and I can go softer if it's a sweeper based course

So the stock bar based on our data is 583 Lbs per in
Our 1 3/8th Adjustable bar is 725lbs per in at max stiffness, and 520lbs per in at minimum stiffness, and it has 4 adjustment points on it. The billet ends on them are beyond durable, we run these on our #20 T1 Race car with no issues in reliability as well.

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