Audio Upgrade issues Help

[Mid_life_crisis]

Why bit one instead of bit ten ? The car only has 4 channels ? And im running the centre speaker off the factory amp.

My front speakers are 3-way split with a passive crossover and the rear deck speakers are co-axials. So im only using 4 channel which the bit ten D supports already ?

If you pull from before the factory amp, the Bit Ten is exactly what you need.

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[Racemaster]

Isn't the bit 1 low level and the bit 10 high level inputs?I have never used either so maybe I am mistaken.

 

[RonStang6G]

Isn't the bit 1 low level and the bit 10 high level inputs?I have never used either so maybe I am mistaken.

Both the Bit One and Bit 10 have low and high level inputs. The difference in in the number of inputs. The Bit One has 8 inputs and the Bit 10 has 4 inputs.

 

[Racemaster]

Gotcha....I have 0 experience with the audison line.I just took a quick glance at the 2

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

Both the Bit One and Bit 10 have low and high level inputs. The difference in in the number of inputs. The Bit One has 8 inputs and the Bit 10 has 4 inputs.

There's more than just that. They came out with the Ten because the One was overkill for a lot of people. It has a ridiculous crossover slope selection for example.

 

[StealthStang]

If you pull from before the factory amp, the Bit Ten is exactly what you need.

If i pull from before the factory amp, will i lose out on any PDC or bluetooth or PDC functionality ? And will i still need to disconnect the mic's ?

Since for whatever reason the beeps and PDC currently play through the centre speaker, i could just leave it like that and pull before the amp for FR,FL,RR,RL.

But im worried the centre speaker is going to probably blow since its being driven really hard at the moment, maybe it was always like that and i just didnt notice it, but it feels like once we put the new speakers in the system is somehow trying to compensate for something by playing the centre channel louder.

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

Mopar H/U monitors output impedance. It's possible that the system is trying to compensate for impedance imbalances.
I would try it with the factory amp out of the car and see what functionality is missing. I'm curious if the fake engine noise goes away. If it has to be in the system, you may have to experiment with resistors on the lines to get the impedance balanced.

Has no one else set up a stereo that used the factory amp and an aftermarket other than for a subwoofer?

 

[wildcatgoal]

Not reading all the posts, but you shouldn't take rear signal and send it to the front in most cars. OEM rear signal is often heavily processed and has undesirable crossover points to make the rear speakers sound better/different so they don't overpower the front of the car.

That said, if you have a Bit.1, you can tune the car to blend with the center speaker. I have seen it done in similar audio systems at Sound Sensations in Marietta, GA, where I used to moonlight. It takes a lot of skill to tune a complicated audio system from factory signal. Half that skill can be "computerized" by using the Bit.Tune system.

If you haven't already, I'd get signal from the FRONT + REAR speakers, then report back.

 

[StealthStang]

Well this is what im going to try next,
Parallel the front signal from before the amp and pass that to the bit ten. Hopefully the Bit ten can get a decent flat signal out of that and it doesnt do any engine noise stuff from before the factory amp. Then ill pass that to my kicker kx amp to drive the front 3-way kit.

Then im going to run the rears off the stock amp, hopefully having to run the rears and the centre means the stock amp won't end up pumping all the power to the centre channel. Engine sound processing can continue to happen in the rear and i wont need to disconnect the mic. Since the Rear deck speakers are behind the carpet you wont hear them much anyway.

Thats the new plan ...hopefully it works out better than before.

 

[StealthStang]

I think ive got it sorted now.

Basically did what i said in the above post, but with the rear channel becoming free on the KX800 we ran the fronts semi active (tweets+mids+passive cross, then woofer on its own channels active).

With the rear speakers running of the factory amp, the centre speaker is now playing correctly.

Thanks for all the info guys, it was really useful in solving this wierd problem.

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

I think ive got it sorted now.

Basically did what i said in the above post, but with the rear channel becoming free on the KX800 we ran the fronts semi active (tweets+mids+passive cross, then woofer on its own channels active).

With the rear speakers running of the factory amp, the centre speaker is now playing correctly.

Thanks for all the info guys, it was really useful in solving this wierd problem.

Glad to hear you got it sorted.
Are the warning tones still coming through the center or did they move back to the rear?
Did the fake engine sounds get reduced (or go away) with the fronts disconnected from the factory amp or is there no change?

 

[StealthStang]

Glad to hear you got it sorted.
Are the warning tones still coming through the center or did they move back to the rear?
Did the fake engine sounds get reduced (or go away) with the fronts disconnected from the factory amp or is there no change?

Well, i think the PDC beeps are meant to come out the centre, i asked a sale guy at ford to check one of their floor cars and he confirmed it played from the centre (but not obviously so).

I think in my case was that since the centre channel was playing so loud relative to everything else it made it much more apparent it was from the centre (which is what you said earlier), since the centre was distorting as well it made the beep sound different.

As far as the engine noises, honestly before the install i never noticed them, and now after the install i still can't notice them. Im not sure why Ford went through all this effort with that stuff, its kinda useless. Maybe if i put a sub in i might start having issues with it. I havent disconnected any mics and my audio seems pretty clean.

 

[StealthStang]

Argh ive got a new issue now.

If i leave the car turned off for a while, then open the drivers side door i get three loud low frequency buzz's from the door speakers. It sounds like some kind of test signal or something. Im guessing the headunit its outputing this signal and the bit ten processor is picking it up as a sound ?

No idea what to do about that.

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

Argh ive got a new issue now.

If i leave the car turned off for a while, then open the drivers side door i get three loud low frequency buzz's from the door speakers. It sounds like some kind of test signal or something. Im guessing the headunit its outputing this signal and the bit ten processor is picking it up as a sound ?

No idea what to do about that.

The first test I would make is to pull the plug on the microphone in the back of the car, assuming you haven't done that yet. It's the simplest first try I can think of.

 

[StealthStang]

I think i can see the mic on the rear headliner, but im not sure how to disconnect it, i dont want to damage the headliner, busy search forums on how to do it.

*Edit - i found this video in case anybody else wants to see where the mic is
[ame]

Cutting the wire seems a bit excessive, its a plug of some kind but it doesnt seem to be easily removeable, with the headliner still on i cant see a good way to unplug it without bending the headliner, maybe i can try some tweezers.

Though to be honest, i don't think thats my problem. Im only using the front signal from the head unit and im only getting the buzz sometimes when the car has been off for a while, then when i open it, when the electronics all switch on i get the loud low frequency buzz from the driver side door speakers for about 1 second it plays 2-3 quick buzzes at full volume. (Ive used Audison processors before on other cars and have seen this kind an issue before, but its never been this loud.)

I think its related to something the bit ten is doing, depending on when it turns on its picking up a signal from the head unit that isnt supposed to be heard on the speakers. Im thinking i should look at the power on delay before disconnecting the mic. Don't want to risk damaging that mic or bending the headliner yet.

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