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Anybody adjust their lights after lower?

chadmclark

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Title says it all. I have the Eibach Pro Kit .. not even sure if the ~1" drop makes a difference in terms of beam height.

If you did, was it pretty straight forward? Thanks!

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Aarron_M

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I live kind of "out of town", and the roads are surrounded by trees. It's usually pretty blacked-out at night. I'm lowered on Eibach's Prokit, and I haven't noticed any need to adjust the lights. I mean, unless you just lowered the front, the beam isn't aiming any noticeably more downward.
 

jbailer

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If you're only lowering an inch and it's even front to back, you won't even notice the difference in the lights. If you use springs that lower more in the front than in the rear, you probably want to check it. I think there are some spring kits that lower ~.5" rear and just over an inch front. I think that rake over that length might be an issue, not sure.
 

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I have the same kit, makes no difference.
 

stoli

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Title says it all. I have the Eibach Pro Kit .. not even sure if the ~1" drop makes a difference in terms of beam height.

If you did, was it pretty straight forward? Thanks!
I did. Before you install the springs use some masking tape to mark the headlight cuttoff on your garage wall or some other wall from a fixed distance. After installing the springs repeat and adjust them back up to the same location.

Edit: Don't do this. Use the wall method suggested by [MENTION=13317]Coaster[/MENTION] below. :)
 
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jbailer

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I did. Before you install the springs use some masking tape to mark the headlight cuttoff on your garage wall or some other wall from a fixed distance. After installing the springs repeat and adjust them back up to the same location.
The problem with that method is, that was a short distance. If you think about it, you changed the angle of the beam. The tape is in a fixed location on the wall, you are at a fixed distance away from the wall, you lower the car, the beam angle is greater. Where it won't matter for 6' in a garage, over 100' on the road, your beams will be angling up into people's eyes. If left alone, over 100', they may be 1" lower, not noticeable.
 

Coaster

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The correct method is to measure the height from the ground to the middle of the projector on the car. Then put a piece of tape on a wall that is a level 25' away at the same height. Then adjust the cutoff to be 1" below the tape.

Marking the cutoff before changing the suspension is just silly, all kinds of things will have changed.
 

CompO5.sl0w

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I live in woods in Cloyd Rivers country on bags and haven't noticed a need to re-adjust the lights.
 

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stoli

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The problem with that method is, that was a short distance. If you think about it, you changed the angle of the beam. The tape is in a fixed location on the wall, you are at a fixed distance away from the wall, you lower the car, the beam angle is greater. Where it won't matter for 6' in a garage, over 100' on the road, your beams will be angling up into people's eyes. If left alone, over 100', they may be 1" lower, not noticeable.
Agreed in 95% of cases my suggested method would likely have undesired results. :headbonk: I got lucky and it wasn't a significant enough of an adjustment to blind anyone.
 
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chadmclark

chadmclark

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Thanks guys for the replies, makes sense that since back and rear are roughly the same all should be damn near factory spec [emoji2]

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Dragster

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I'm lowered on Sportlines, and I adjusted my headlights afterward. It's really easy; IIRC, there's a spot next to the lights under the hood, and you just put a flathead screwdriver in there and turn to adjust them. It's much better than it was before, and I haven't had anyone flash me yet. Not sure if the lights were actually lower after the springs or if it was placebo effect, but it's definitely better now either way. :)
 

andrewr164

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PROKIT CLAIMS 1 INCH IN FRONT AND 1.1 IN REAR.. SO THE HEADLIGHTS SHOULD BE SLIGHT HIGHER WHEN LOWERED WITH THE PRO KIT..
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