Any Bullitt engine ticks?

[Schwerin]

Curious about the build date of the Bullitts with the ticks. We all know coyote engines have a history of ticking, but not all ticks sounds should be concerning. A check for metal in the oil filter should probably be done before anyone starts overthinking it. Could the coyote engine issues that SOME are experiencing be from a bad production batch? Seems like the bulk of the issues were from 2018 vehicles with a smattering of 2019's. And a common thread seems to be a high percentage of owners with the tick "Drove it like they stole it" during break in.

I don't have a tick, but on a couple of occasions I thought a heard a weird sound coming from the engine for a few seconds. Of course I now have OCD and acute paranoia ever since I started reading posts about typewriter ticks and piston slap, etc. I say lets just enjoy our new girls but also not stick our heads in the sand. I will be checking my oil filter and catch can for foreign material when I do my oil change at 5K and will report back any findings, but until then enjoy that green beauty!

The only problem there is that people that recently have had new short blocks still have ticking after. Now we don't know if it is the SAME ticking, or if the ticking is really from something on the top end. I feel like until a Mustang Specialist shop gets a ticker and tears it down we may not ever get a SOLID answer.

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[Nanashii]

I have a little bit of the engine rattle at about 2000 RPM, but it's usual gone in 5 minutes. No tick... knock on wood.

Yeah, me, too. It sounds like super-fast castanets and it's noticeable especially when I'm driving next to something that will reflect sound well like a wall. Mine never goes away, though. And I started to notice some intermittent ticking at idle about 200 miles ago.

I'll have the dealer take a listen and see if there's anything to be done.

Mine sounds tight at idle with no tick that I can detect (1,200 miles on it so far).
I have noticed since day one a light sewing machine rattle while cruising at lower rpms (around 2,000) that goes away if you give it more gas or let off the throttle completely.
It goes away after warmed up.
I’ve been trying to decide if that’s a problem or not.

I have both the tick and the rattle—which sounds to me like really fast castanets—but it doesn’t go away.

Going to try both Ceratec and BG Synchro Shift II.

That's the same condition under which I hear the noise you do.

You guys with the 2000 RPM rattle can read though the thread below for more information. I had the exact same issue with my 18 PP2 and Ford replaced the motor after the dealer found internal damage. The second motor is even worse with only 1000 miles on it.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...nder-damage-pics-ford-buyback-process.102509/

 

[el-guapin]

Yikes!!

You guys with the 2000 RPM rattle can read though the thread below for more information. I had the exact same issue with my 18 PP2 and Ford replaced the motor after the dealer found internal damage. The second motor is even worse with only 1000 miles on it.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...nder-damage-pics-ford-buyback-process.102509/

 

[CAL Captain]

We're ALL GONNA DIE!!!

 

[Retroman1969]

Well damn.
That’s mine to a T. Exact same conditions. At its most noticeable in 3rd at 2000 to 2500 rpm.
Guess I’ll be going to the dealer and getting my cylinders checked. :(

 

[S550VIN54]

I have always stood firmly by the term "If it ain't broke don't fix it". Unless I get a check engine light, excessive oil usage, etc. I will not open myself to other problems unless needed. I have 5 yrs or 60 k miles so there is plenty of time if there is a problem.

 

[Retroman1969]

I have an appointment Thurs morning to have a boroscope done. We’ll see what turns up.
Honestly if they do find something I’m not sure I want them to replace the engine at this juncture since most people getting engine replacements are still having the same problem.
Like written above, I’d lean towards just driving and enjoying it until something serious happens, if it happens, and then just take advantage of my extended warranty.
The other option would be to push for a buyback and get a different car.
Don’t know, I’ll have to play it by ear.

 

[Retroman1969]

Update:
Now with nearly 1400 miles the faint diesel clatter is quickly getting more prominent.
Cold or warm (a bit worse cold), 1500-3500 rpm in any gear at any speed, as long as its under light to moderate acceleration between 1500-3500 rpm.
I’m starting to get depressed and paranoid about it.
Still, the earliest the dealer can get to it is Thurs, so I have an appointment. I asked for a boroscope inspection.

The oil is still full and clear.
I followed all the break-in procedures and didn’t modify or abuse it in any way. Even now after break-in, I rarely go over 3,500 rpms and have never had it over 5,000rpms.

I’ll post what the dealer’s shop turns up.
Right now I’m not sure what to do. Clearly from the reports a replacement engine will be pointless. A buyback will probably come at a slight monetary loss and after trading in my Mercedes and Porsche for this thing I’d just be left with my work beater car. Camaros and Challengers don’t really do it for me as replacements. Maybe another slightly used Porsche Cayman or something, I don’t know.
Hopefully the shop will turn up no internal damage.... but the noise is still disconcerting.

 

[S550VIN54]

Update:
Now with nearly 1400 miles the faint diesel clatter is quickly getting more prominent.
Cold or warm (a bit worse cold), 1500-3500 rpm in any gear at any speed, as long as its under light to moderate acceleration between 1500-3500 rpm.
I’m starting to get depressed and paranoid about it.
Still, the earliest the dealer can get to it is Thurs, so I have an appointment. I asked for a boroscope inspection.

The oil is still full and clear.
I followed all the break-in procedures and didn’t modify or abuse it in any way. Even now after break-in, I rarely go over 3,500 rpms and have never had it over 5,000rpms.

I’ll post what the dealer’s shop turns up.
Right now I’m not sure what to do. Clearly from the reports a replacement engine will be pointless. A buyback will probably come at a slight monetary loss and after trading in my Mercedes and Porsche for this thing I’d just be left with my work beater car. Camaros and Challengers don’t really do it for me as replacements. Maybe another slightly used Porsche Cayman or something, I don’t know.
Hopefully the shop will turn up no internal damage.... but the noise is still disconcerting.

I hope all is well with your car. I have owned a few mustangs and I must say they have all had a noisy engine but nothing fatal has ever happened knock on wood. Funny thing the 2015 50th anniversary I owned was the quietest one because it had the engine cover.

Sometimes when these threads are created regarding an anomaly I have to say a bit of paranoia can steer us in a direction of no return. I hope this is not the case for you. Good luck with your Bullitt!

 

[Retroman1969]

I hope all is well with your car. I have owned a few mustangs and I must say they have all had a noisy engine but nothing fatal has ever happened knock on wood. Funny thing the 2015 50th anniversary I owned was the quietest one because it had the engine cover.

Sometimes when these threads are created regarding an anomaly I have to say a bit of paranoia can steer us in a direction of no return. I hope this is not the case for you. Good luck with your Bullitt!

Thank you for that.
I really do hope I’m just being paranoid and embarrassing myself here. That would be preferable to being faced with a decision to possibly get rid of a car I genuinely love.
If the inspection turns up no visible damage or stress, I’m just going to say: “heck with it, it’s just a noisy engine then”. ;)

 

[CAL Captain]

Thank you for that.
I really do hope I’m just being paranoid and embarrassing myself here. That would be preferable to being faced with a decision to possibly get rid of a car I genuinely love.
If the inspection turns up no visible damage or stress, I’m just going to say: “heck with it, it’s just a noisy engine then”. ;)

Sorry you are going through this. As a fellow Bullitt-eer, I’m very interested to see how this turns out. I have both the tick and rattle. I got my Ceratec in the mail yesterday. As soon as I can find a level place to check the oil, I’m going to put in a half bottle to start with and see how it goes.

Please keep us informed on your progress.

 

[OldPhart]

Update:
Now with nearly 1400 miles the faint diesel clatter is quickly getting more prominent.
Cold or warm (a bit worse cold), 1500-3500 rpm in any gear at any speed, as long as its under light to moderate acceleration between 1500-3500 rpm.
I’m starting to get depressed and paranoid about it.
Still, the earliest the dealer can get to it is Thurs, so I have an appointment. I asked for a boroscope inspection.

The oil is still full and clear.
I followed all the break-in procedures and didn’t modify or abuse it in any way. Even now after break-in, I rarely go over 3,500 rpms and have never had it over 5,000rpms.

I’ll post what the dealer’s shop turns up.
Right now I’m not sure what to do. Clearly from the reports a replacement engine will be pointless. A buyback will probably come at a slight monetary loss and after trading in my Mercedes and Porsche for this thing I’d just be left with my work beater car. Camaros and Challengers don’t really do it for me as replacements. Maybe another slightly used Porsche Cayman or something, I don’t know.
Hopefully the shop will turn up no internal damage.... but the noise is still disconcerting.

Hi - Just another curiosity question from the “non-gearhead” science guy - please bear with me. During my Corvette Club years many of the owners of the newer cars (C5 +) were emphatic about the brand of gas and oil to use, such as only Mobil or Sunoco and only high test(ie.93 octane) gas and only Mobil1 synthetic oil. I ignored that discussion as I had an older ‘92 LT1 engine. I used various brands of 93 octane, let my mechanic use his choice of synthetic oil and never had a hint of problems in 60G miles. I did have a constant ticking sound at idle which was due to the fuel pump and common to everyone with my model. That noise would have made me paranoid but when colleagues told me it was meaningless, I relaxed and hardly noticed it thereafter even though it remained. So yes, there can be a psychological component to issues such as mystical noises and I experienced that. These mentioned preferences may have been more for performance since I don’t recall folks conplaining about serious engine problems except for some who had excessive oil consumption. I seem to remember hearing of a recall regarding that issue. My understanding is that in our area all the gas comes from a central depot and then the individual companies add their own patented(?) additives which apparently vary from company to company. So I wonder what brand and octane ratings are being used in the cars developing these mystical ticking problems? It would be good if that could be ruled out as a factor. Other than manufacturing defects or engine abuse, it would seem that oil and gasoline are the only other potential accomplices unless you want to include elevation. Using the correct Ford Motorcraft oil is apparently one identified factor. I now have my Feb 4th build date and am still looking forward to getting the Bullitt, albeit with some newly acquired apprehension... Bruce

 

[Retroman1969]

Sorry you are going through this. As a fellow Bullitt-eer, I’m very interested to see how this turns out. I have both the tick and rattle. I got my Ceratec in the mail yesterday. As soon as I can find a level place to check the oil, I’m going to put in a half bottle to start with and see how it goes.

Please keep us informed on your progress.

Wow, another Bullitt with the noises.... I’ll certainly let you know what the dealer finds, and hopefully it will be nothing and we can relax. ;)

I will say that the rattle mostly goes away after the engine is thoroughly warmed up. It warms up to operating temperature usually within 5-10 minutes of starting it in the morning, but I have to drive it a good 20 minutes before the sound mostly subsides.

 

[Retroman1969]

Hi - Just another curiosity question from the “non-gearhead” science guy - please bear with me. During my Corvette Club years many of the owners of the newer cars (C5 +) were emphatic about the brand of gas and oil to use, such as only Mobil or Sunoco and only high test(ie.93 octane) gas and only Mobil1 synthetic oil. I ignored that discussion as I had an older ‘92 LT1 engine. I used various brands of 93 octane, let my mechanic use his choice of synthetic oil and never had a hint of problems in 60G miles. I did have a constant ticking sound at idle which was due to the fuel pump and common to everyone with my model. That noise would have made me paranoid but when colleagues told me it was meaningless, I relaxed and hardly noticed it thereafter even though it remained. So yes, there can be a psychological component to issues such as mystical noises and I experienced that. These mentioned preferences may have been more for performance since I don’t recall folks conplaining about serious engine problems except for some who had excessive oil consumption. I seem to remember hearing of a recall regarding that issue. My understanding is that in our area all the gas comes from a central depot and then the individual companies add their own patented(?) additives which apparently vary from company to company. So I wonder what brand and octane ratings are being used in the cars developing these mystical ticking problems? It would be good if that could be ruled out as a factor. Other than manufacturing defects or engine abuse, it would seem that oil and gasoline are the only other potential accomplices unless you want to include elevation. Using the correct Ford Motorcraft oil is apparently one identified factor. I now have my Feb 4th build date and am still looking forward to getting the Bullitt, albeit with some newly acquired apprehension... Bruce

Yes, I agree that psychologically we can tune in on sounds more if there’s a lot of attention called to it.
I’m just certain it’s worse than it was when I first got the car.
I just use 91 octane 100% gas wherever I can get it. (93 is rare around here). Never was a problem on my Porsche’s engines, or my friend’s Corvette, so I assume it shouldn’t be a problem short or long term on these 5.0 Mustangs.
I also will get all of my service done at the dealer with the factory recommended oil. I just can’t imagine these cars can be that finniky unless there’s a problem with them. But that’s just my opinion. ;)
I think you’ll love the Bullitt. Despite the concerns and issues people are having, I still think it’s an amazing car.

 

[ERNIEM]

OK ! I think it's time for one more opinion. Here is my take on the engine noise.
My Bullitt is nearing 2500 miles and I drive it daily. I hear familiar low rpm rattle everyday under light throttle. It causes me NO concern whatsoever.

I am old. I've owned MANY different vehicles and can draw from past experiences.
Most vehicles I've owned were usually well abused. Back then the oil quality was crucial to the longevity of the engine, particularly the bottom end.
Normal age and wear on the bearings would make them rattle exactly as what I hear on the Bullitt albeit more prominent and consistent. This was particularly true
on very hot days when the high oil temps would quickly thin out the oil. The oil pressure would drop to nearly nil as well. A fresh oil change to a higher viscosity would remedy the situation until the oil deteriorated again.
I also had a Pontiac engine rebuilt where the shop loosened the bearing clearances in the interest of a quicker reving nature. I drove this engine for MANY years on
the street and many passes on the strip in various cars. It always had the faint lower bearing rattle. At the builder's recommendation, I always used a higher viscosity oil.
SO.... my theory is that these engines are purposely built rather loose. Today's manufacturers recommend 0 and 5 weight oil in the interest of efficiency, fuel mileage and power. And...I don't have to tell you...this engine winds up really fast! I am going to change to a different viscosity synthetic in a few hundred miles. I suspect the noise will be less noticeable. Not so much to cover a defect, but in the interest of a bit more protection as the oil breaks down.
My GTO's and Corvettes always drank higher viscosity Mobil 1 than suggested with no issues. And some of those would have terrible piston slap when cold as well!
Same with my Jaguars and Mini Coopers.
As for the engines that Ford replaced as defective; Just because they accepted the responsibility does not mean they were defective. There are many reasons for
warranty coverage. The all knowing prima donna tech condemns an engine for a bearing showing a bit wear....I hear the bullshit all the time. I work at a dealership.
He'd have to replace it or rebuild it. Since he really doesn't want it to come back and haunt him...it's defective.
So many paranoid whining customers with concerns are catered to simply because the dealership wants them to go away!
The forums have a few people that believe they have an issue and all of a sudden it must be an epidemic. Not passing judgement or pointing fingers, but just because
a few cars have issues doesn't necessarily mean they're all junk. And then there are those that are paranoid about problems they may not have.

There you have it ...my theory. I'm not an engineer or expert of any sort. Just sharing my thoughts.
I know that this long of a read will undoubtedly lead to my words being mocked, picked apart or whatever. Again just my theory.
I'll let you know if it blows to smithereens !!!

Ernie

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