Another Exploded Clutch

[Guarded15]

I have a 2015 26k miles GT Track Pack, FRPP2. Bought it about three months ago. I have been driving all manual transmission cars for 16 years now and this is my first clutch failure.

Similar to what others have experienced here. Shifting near red line, push in clutch, hear a pop and can't select any gears. Clutch hydraulics feel fine from the pedal. I want to add another data point that this has happened to yet another person. And another data point for a failed clutch that wont disengage. Ford has got a serious problem here, I realized today I am going to handle it by buying Ford stock and every time something stupid like this breaks I will have that sweet dividend to pick up my spirits.

When I called up the Ford dealer they told me go have intercourse with myself. Decided to suck it up and change it out in my driveway. I got the transmission out today with a lot of help from a friend. It's a PITA. When I crack open the pressure plate/flywheel assembly I am guessing I am going to see the telltale friction surface separated from the clutch disk, I am already finding chunks of friction surface everywhere.

From what I can tell there is not a tutorial on transmission removal or doing a clutch job so if you guys have questions, please ask away.

I'm going to be swapping in a MGW shifter and ACT Twin Plate street clutch.

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[TrevorGT]

Yep. These stock clutches are really POS. I’m on my 3rd. All have been covered by dealership. 1st two went right away. This one has lasted the longest and seems to be fine. Always in the back of my mind when spirited driving that it’ll shatter again like grandmas fine china.

 

[Guarded15]

Yep. These stock clutches are really POS. I’m on my 3rd. All have been covered by dealership. 1st two went right away. This one has lasted the longest and seems to be fine. Always in the back of my mind when spirited driving that it’ll shatter again like grandmas fine china.

How many miles have you got on your car?

 

[TrevorGT]

9,700 mi
First disc came apart with 286 miles on it.
2nd one chattered so bad I could hardly drive it. Broke the springs on the hub and of course large pieces of disc came off again. Been driving manual for 20+ years. Only manual transmission I’ve ever had an issue with.
This clutch has the most mileage. Approximately 6k. I’d have to look back at my paperwork.

 

[cop on my back]

Sorry to hear. I did mine in the garage using jackstands and it wasn't too bad. Post of picture or two of the damage.

 

[Guarded15]

Sorry to hear. I did mine in the garage using jackstands and it wasn't too bad. Post of picture or two of the damage.

Do you have any advice for getting the top transmission bolts back in? While I was taking them out yesterday I realized I had no idea how I was going to get them back in their homes.

We are supposed to get some water from the sky here in Phoenix so I am in a holding pattern until that clears. I will absolutely post up some clutch carnage pics when I get there.

 

[AlphaCoyote]

ChrisFix has a great video on how to change out a clutch and transmission.

 

[ckendri]

I was able to get to my two top bolts from the engine bay. I simply reached in behind the supercharger, and could easily access them. I ran them in by hand, and I finished them up with a box end wrench because I could not get my torque wrench on them. You might have better luck with a torque wrench if you don't have a top mount supercharger. They don't have to be too tight at only 35 ft-lb.

 

[16whipple]

So I have a question. I blew my stock clutch up yesterday. Pedal got very hard then a puff of smoke and no gears at all. Car actually wouldn’t start up for a few minutes ,guessing flywheel was welded to the plate. So I’m gonna go with a McLeod twin disk and a braided clutch line. Was wondering if anyone is using this adjustable throw out bearing controller ?

 

[Guarded15]

I was able to get to my two top bolts from the engine bay. I simply reached in behind the supercharger, and could easily access them. I ran them in by hand, and I finished them up with a box end wrench because I could not get my torque wrench on them. You might have better luck with a torque wrench if you don't have a top mount supercharger. They don't have to be too tight at only 35 ft-lb.

Thanks! I think if I can get them started I can fish up enough extensions and universal joints to get them torqued to spec.

So I have a question. I blew my stock clutch up yesterday. Pedal got very hard then a puff of smoke and no gears at all. Car actually wouldn’t start up for a few minutes ,guessing flywheel was welded to the plate. So I’m gonna go with a McLeod twin disk and a braided clutch line. Was wondering if anyone is using this adjustable throw out bearing controller ?

What product are you talking about?

 

[16whipple]

Thanks! I think if I can get them started I can fish up enough extensions and universal joints to get them torqued to spec.



What product are you talking about?

It’s a adjustable hydraulic throw out bearing it’s made by McLeod

 

[Kong76]

Oem clutch made in Turkey. Problem solved.

 

[Glockshna]

Anyone with an 18/19 have any issues to report? Just picked up a 19 GT and the clutch is WAY different (read: better) from the 16 v6 I was driving before I traded it. Wondering if they fixed the issue with the clutches on the refresh. I've been sending it every opportunity I get and it's been great so far.

 

[Guarded15]

Anyone with an 18/19 have any issues to report? Just picked up a 19 GT and the clutch is WAY different (read: better) from the 16 v6 I was driving before I traded it. Wondering if they fixed the issue with the clutches on the refresh. I've been sending it every opportunity I get and it's been great so far.

The 18+ switched to a twin disk. It makes me suspect that Ford knows the clutch in the 15-17s doesn't cut it but also doesn't want to pay the price for being honest. Twin disks offer you the ability to have lots higher torque holding, slower wear (double the surface area) and a light pedal. I selected one for those advantages so I would have margin. I guesstimate I'm making 430 crank torque. All the street heavy duty single disks do about 500ft-lbs or you can go with a twin disk that will hold 900ft-lbs. You can go much higher torque with a single plate but then you start getting unfavorable characteristics for novice drivers and traffic.

Another point to consider is the factory clutch is the weak spot in the drivetrain, this is probabaly intentional and probably why Ford was willing to extend the warranties around power adders.

I haven't ready about the glass clutch reading its ugly head. I think Ford begrudgingly fixed it in 2018.

 

[Glockshna]

The 18+ switched to a twin disk. It makes me suspect that Ford knows the clutch in the 15-17s doesn't cut it but also doesn't want to pay the price for being honest. Twin disks offer you the ability to have lots higher torque holding, slower wear (double the surface area) and a light pedal. I selected one for those advantages so I would have margin. I guesstimate I'm making 430 crank torque. All the street heavy duty single disks do about 500ft-lbs or you can go with a twin disk that will hold 900ft-lbs. You can go much higher torque with a single plate but then you start getting unfavorable characteristics for novice drivers and traffic.

Another point to consider is the factory clutch is the weak spot in the drivetrain, this is probabaly intentional and probably why Ford was willing to extend the warranties around power adders.

I haven't ready about the glass clutch reading its ugly head. I think Ford begrudgingly fixed it in 2018.

Makes sense. I'm not too up on the mechanical side of it. Never really got too deep in to it. All I can say is the shifter and clutch on the refresh is a DREAM compared to the 15-17s I've driven.

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