Adding camber to a 19+ 350R

[Seven]

Thanks all - ordered the BMR bolts last night.

I want the -2.2 for now as I'll be running PSC2s and they tend to like less camber than some other R-Comps.

If/when I want to go with NT01s, SC3Rs, R888Rs, I'll look into more camber with the bolts or buying plates.

I'll also just be leaving it with -2.2 (or more) all the time as I'll street drive the car, but not for tons of miles and mostly on back-roads where I'll enjoy the camber anyway.

Sponsored

 

[MikeR397]

So, this is what 2.2 degrees looks like on my 2016. It's the same on both sides, so the crossmember is centered:

I'm using the Steeda camber plates. The tape with the dot on it is part of my adjustment toolkit. I put a piece of tape on the fender and make reference mark on it. From there, adjusting is just a matter of measuring - a 0.1 degree camber change is almost exactly 1 mm of movement inward or outward.

I have the steeda plates as well. Pushed all the way in I am able to get -3 degrees on mine with no bolts needed. I have found optimal camber to be about -2.7 degrees for me, and still to rotate the driver and passenger tire each fee track events to have them wear more evenly as driver front takes the most abuse on clockwise tracks.

 

[fpa1974]

I thought 2019+ Rs came with the factory camber plates. I have them and run 2.3 negative just by using them. Caster is bang on too (not adjustable). Rear can get to negative 1.6 no problem, no hardware needed.

 

[Seven]

I thought 2019+ Rs came with the factory camber plates. I have them and run 2.3 negative just by using them. Caster is bang on too (not adjustable). Rear can get to negative 1.6 no problem, no hardware needed.

They do but per the post I put in the first post, they won't always get to -2.2

 

[fpa1974]

They do but per the post I put in the first post, they won't always get to -2.2

If installed properly they will (mine maxed out at 2.3 and 2.5 respectively).

 

[The Chairman]

Forgive me, but I recall there was a concern about the BMR camber bolts being strong enough? Does anyone else recall that? My recollection that the issue was discussed a long time ago.

On the previous generation of Mustangs, the strut bolts were smaller diameter, and you generally had to use two of them to get the required camber. If you really torqued them down, it was possible to break them under heavy loads.
This generation Mustang has a larger diameter bolt, and only need one on each side to get the camber needed.

 

[MandoGt350R]

Personally, I leave mine at 2.7 to 2.9 all the time. Not worth the hassle of changing. But I don’t drive it very much.

This is a good setting for a track and for rare street driving?

 

[The Chairman]

This is a good setting for a track and for rare street driving?

Yes, that’s where I leave mine.

 

[MandoGt350R]

Yes, that’s where I leave mine.

and this for the front and rear?

 

[The Chairman]

and this for the front and rear?

Just the front. I’ve never touched the rear from stock. Could probably get another degree of negative camber on the rear. But it’s a pain to mess with that setting.
The biggest issue with these cars is front grip and front tire wear. The rear has been fine as is. I’m sure once you get the under steer controlled, the rear will need some attention. But I’m not there yet.

Sponsored