Adding a sub - sanity check

[thompsje]

Sorry for yet another thread on this, but I've read the sticky and a bunch of other threads and just want to make sure my plan is reasonable. I'm not in a place to replace the entire system right now, and already have a small 90W x 2 amp and sub box from my previous car.

I have a 2018 GT Premium, 9 speaker, and no active exhaust. That means that I don't have the sub harness already in the back, and adding an amp from a 12 speaker car doesn't gain me much. I also *think* that means that I don't have extra engine noises or noise cancellation, but still not completely sure on the ANC.

So, my plan is

1. Disable the bass clipping on the rear speakers. Use ForScan, setting 727-01-02 00xx
2. On the black connector going to the factory amp, tap terminals 1,2 and 5,6 for right and left rear signals respectively
3. Run that signal to line in for the amp in the trunk
4. Wire power, ground for amp, remote turn on from blue wire under rear deck
4a. Optionally - replace rear deck speakers and door woofers
5. Have bass.

Eventually I might do more, but right now trying to stick to a budget and be minimally invasive. Any advice is much appreciated.

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[StangTime]

I wouldn't grab the low level signals at the front if all you want is a subwoofer. A much easier and just as effective way is to tap off the rear deck speaker leads and run them into a good subwoofer amp with hi-level inputs and auto signal detection (no need for a remote wire). The only thing you need is an appropriate power wire for the amp running up to the battery. Lot's of examples on the forum.

 

[thompsje]

I wouldn't grab the low level signals at the front if all you want is a subwoofer. A much easier and just as effective way is to tap off the rear deck speaker leads and run them into a good subwoofer amp with hi-level inputs and auto signal detection (no need for a remote wire). The only thing you need is an appropriate power wire for the amp running up to the battery. Lot's of examples on the forum.

Ok, but I was trying to reuse what I had rather than buying a new amp... but there might be a tradeoff there between $$ and effort.

Either way, still need to make the ForScan change if I'm using the rears, correct?

 

[StangTime]

Ok, but I was trying to reuse what I had rather than buying a new amp... but there might be a tradeoff there between $$ and effort.

Either way, still need to make the ForScan change if I'm using the rears, correct?

Yes. Do the Forscan change regardless. That way you will have an unmolested signal to go into your amp.

If you are willing to put in the effort and also need to use low levels because you already have an amp, then use the low level signals.

BTW don't waste your money on expensive interconnects for this. I used one network Cat5e STP cable (shielded twisted pair). Cut off the ends and strip and attach male RCA's for your amp on one end and splice the other end into the wires at the black connector. Tie the braided shield to the ground screw by the factory amp. Don't connect the shield at the RCA end. You can do front and rear signals (L & R) or just use one pair (Front L & R). This cable is absolutely noise free. Here is the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-G...gless+Shielded+Ethernet&qid=1614967091&sr=8-3
15 feet will get you all the way back to the spare tire well.

 

[thompsje]

Awesome. I already have the STP on order, so I should be all set. Thanks for your feedback!

 

[StangTime]

Awesome. I already have the STP on order, so I should be all set. Thanks for your feedback!

No problem. Post back here when you're done and let us know how it went.

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