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Adding a sub to GT Premium 400a

bigred90gt

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When I traded my truck for the stang, I pulled the sub, amp and crossover out of it first. I have a JL 10" sub, infinity 360/2 (360w rms x 1 @ 4 ohm) amp and a kicker crossover. It sounded great in the truck, but there wasn't a shred of factory anything left in it. I plan to add it to the car now, and eventually upgrade everything else.

My question is, if I tap into the speaker wires in the back and add a rca adapter of some kind, do the rear speakers experience a bass roll-off as volume increases? I'm not looking for earth shattering bass, obviously as I'm only using a single 10", but I would like a consistent change in volume to match the rest of the stereo. I know I can tap into the harness before the amp for an unprocessed signal, but it is a lot less work to tap in in the trunk, since that's where everything will be anyway. Aside from running the power to the trunk, I don't want to have to pull a bunch of interior panels off right now. When I upgrade the rest of the system, it will be a complete build, and I'll redo the sub then.

Also, I will dig into the wiring schematics in the sticky thread, but does anyone know off hand if there is a wire back there that works as a remote wire?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
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draco24433

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Well, I have no idea what a bass roll off is but I have an self powered subwoofer which I have connected to the rear speaker and it sound very good for what it is. Bass thumps very nicely and if I put it loud enough, it will shake my rear view mirror.
 

Edwin

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I haven't had any issues with bass roll off personally. Although some people have complained about that in the past so I'm not sure how high you have to put the volume to experience that.

There is a blue-white wire in the harness in the trunk you can splice into for a remote wire. All of the info you need regarding that harness can be found here http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25481
 
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watchdog

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LOC is not equal to having a direct RCA out for sub from HU but I am happy with mine. My MTX 300 rms with slim box kicker cv 12" sounds better than the crappy 10" factory I had in my 2015 that had the 401a package. You with need a reachable external level control from amp , otherwise it works. Improved my sound 300 %
 

sandpiper

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I have a small 10 inch self powered sub with a loc off of the rear speakers. Sounds good to me. Fills out the low end, centers the entire sound stage, and has plenty of thump when I crank it up.
 

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bigred90gt

bigred90gt

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That wasn't too bad. The worst part was laying on my back in the trunk soldering the LOC wires into the harness. I hate those little splice clips that basically cut half of the already tiny wires to make the connection, so I cut the necessary wires, stripped them back a bit, and soldered them back along with the LOC wires, then covered them with heat shrink.

Sounds a shit ton better than stock, for sure. Still pathetic compared to my truck, but as mentioned above the truck was completely aftermarket. One of these days, I'll rip everything out, put a DSP of some kind in place of the factory amp, and run all new speakers, wires, and amps to everything. Until I'm feeling really adventurous and have a few days to do it right, this will do.

Thanks for the info.
 
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watchdog

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I might replace tweeters and mid door speakers later, but my Mprb cutback exhaust has completed my sound for now. Amazing what a good sub and rumbling exhaust can do for a car. Lol
 

Quiksilver15

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Are you guys just using a generic LOC? or something nice like a AudioControl LC2I?
 

Gdyup50

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I put an 8" Dual powered sub in, and it's perfect....I didn't want rattling or anything, just some extra punch, and I love it
 

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draco24433

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Quiksilver15

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Thanks guys, I think I have one of those generic ones in storage. I'm pumped to get some bass in this thing. 300w RMS amp with a single 10 or 8 coming soon. I have boxes to go both ways
 
 








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