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Adding a Sub to Base Stereo

sharp21

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Hey Gang,

Just finished installing my old system in the new car. The base stereo isn't very impressive so I put in my old system; JL 10" sub driven by a Kicker 2 channel amp bridged.

First I've got to say; the new Mustang makes stereo installs very easy! All panels pull off with no hassle and the wires are easy to hide.

Second, big thanks to ForTehNguyen and No Limits Audio; both from the Houston S550 club, for letting me talk through a few issues.

I'm using an AudioControl LC6i for signal. Overkill for this application as I'm only using it to supply the low end signal, but it's what I've got. Maybe I'll build it out in the future...

Amp is a Kicker DX300.2 - 300W @ 4ohms bridged.

Sub is a JL 10w3 in a stealthbox... for a Dodge Ram! I tried selling it on CL with no takers. Finally said F@#k it and threw it in the trunk. It actually fits really good! Seriously though, still for sale if interested.



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sharp21

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First thing I did was mount everything in place:



With that figured out, I made up the power cable. The LC6i also runs straight from the battery so I married an 18ga. wire to the 6ga. main power cable:



I had read that the front wheel needed to come off to run that cable clean, but I managed to do it by just unhooking the 5 rear connectors inside the wheel well. There is a wiring harness that passes into the passenger footwell located there. On the wheel well side, the rubber gasket that protects the harness has an extended rubber nipple on it. I cut that off and ran the cable through that, then up into the engine bay.

Hard to take a picture of, but here is the end result as seen through the wheel well:


And the nipple in question:


With the end result:
 
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sharp21

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From inside the cab I only had to remove two trim pieces to run the cable back:


Everything pulls off real easy with clips. I didn't have to take the piece off by the back seat, just slipped the wire under, then along the rear seat and into the trunk:




I mounted the main power fuse in the back, rather than by the battery:


Then made up a lead for the ground cable, inclusive of the LC6i ground:


The plan was to attach the grounds to the bolt between the back seats, but the ring was too small. I drilled it out sequentially until it fit. Then used the dremel to remove some paint before fastening it down:



 
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sharp21

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After that, it was just buttoning up the wiring:


...and reattaching the main power:


...which cleans up real nice:



It all wired up real simple and clean. Needs tuning still but I'll get to that in the morning Thanks again to H-S550 for the help.

S.

S.
 

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Good info but you really need to put a fuse by the battery. If your power wire grounds between that fuse in the back and your battery that entire wire will burn, arc, melt and probably start a car fire.
 

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With the wire run through the fender, you won't be able to install hood struts since they use those holes. If you planned on getting them, anyhow
 
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sharp21

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Hmm great point... I'll install another fuse in the engine bay
 
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sharp21

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sharp21

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With the wire run through the fender, you won't be able to install hood struts since they use those holes. If you planned on getting them, anyhow
I was thinking about it! Looks like I just saved myself some money
S.
 

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5ABI VT

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Great write up ! How does it sound ? Did you connect the loc to the rear deck speakers ? I did the same (and have a thread below somewhere on the topic) or similar with the p300-12 and it doesn't thump as much as I expected. Anyhow I'm curious how you connected the power cable to the battery positive ?
 
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sharp21

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Great write up ! How does it sound ? Did you connect the loc to the rear deck speakers ? I did the same (and have a thread below somewhere on the topic) or similar with the p300-12 and it doesn't thump as much as I expected. Anyhow I'm curious how you connected the power cable to the battery positive ?
The picture is kind of blurry, but I connected to the battery using a ring terminal attached to the small nut for the cam system, that tightens the lead to the battery post.

The LOC is connected to the left rear speaker. It sounds like crap right now to be honest; I think I've got it wired out of phase. I'll be tuning it again this afternoon.

S.
 

5ABI VT

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The picture is kind of blurry, but I connected to the battery using a ring terminal attached to the small nut for the cam system, that tightens the lead to the battery post.

The LOC is connected to the left rear speaker. It sounds like crap right now to be honest; I think I've got it wired out of phase. I'll be tuning it again this afternoon.

S.
I used both rear speakers just to use up all the wires on the loc. And mine sounds .. So so. I think others may be right that the rear speakers are toned down for bass from the head unit or something along Those lines. Then again others say they used them without issue :shrug: I need to double check the positive terminal.. I didn't see where I could attach the cable so I ran it to the fuse box.
 

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Factory speakers for now.
That's the magnet on your factory deck speakers? Looks normal, mine are about the diameter of a 50 cent piece and about 1.5" deep... Nothing near traditional magnet size.
 
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sharp21

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I used both rear speakers just to use up all the wires on the loc. And mine sounds .. So so. I think others may be right that the rear speakers are toned down for bass from the head unit or something along Those lines. Then again others say they used them without issue :shrug: I need to double check the positive terminal.. I didn't see where I could attach the cable so I ran it to the fuse box.
A unit like the LC6i will boost the signal for you.

Turns out I was wired out of phase. Swapped the wires and it made a huge difference! Still fine tuning but it sounds better already.

S.
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