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Updated 3/27/2021 & 5/5/2022 - A look at the 2020 GT500 and exhaust system valves

dirty-max

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Previous: 2015 Black GT Fully Loaded (Sold) Now: 2020 GT500 (Current)
the valves moving is normal I believe. Mine turn out maybe 1-2 times an hour every hour. I think it’s to do with them not rusting.

as of not working with remote start, if you you remote start, then turn it on it won’t let you change it? Or are you trying to change it in the remote start state? If it’s the later you can’t do anything while in remove start other than start the car.
The valves work fine when you remote start the car first before driving it. However when I get in the car, push the brake then hit the push to start button to start it like normal its almost as if the car initiates a check it will cycle the valves and throw the "Active exhaust not Available" error message on the cluster. Since it works fine if you remote start it first I wonder if its something else and not an actual electrical or actuator issue. The whole thing has me scratching my head.
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Alex.Envy

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The valves work fine when you remote start the car first before driving it. However when I get in the car, push the brake then hit the push to start button to start it like normal its almost as if the car initiates a check it will cycle the valves and throw the "Active exhaust not Available" error message on the cluster. Since it works fine if you remote start it first I wonder if its something else and not an actual electrical or actuator issue. The whole thing has me scratching my head.
ohhhhh okay, yeah I’m not sure then.

My front right speed sensor went out and I get an active exhaust warning but can still toggle the modes. Park was on back order but it’s being replaced right now.
 

Rugerman1

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What are your thoughts,Eliminate the resonator will this put more Heat in mufflers?
 
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Epiphany

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The restriction from the resonators in this system is small and I don't believe that removing them has much effect on temperature or velocity. I did a resonator delete as soon as it was available, and while I didn't chart muffler temperatures before/after, I believe that removing the resonator in insignificant with respect to any influence in temperature at the muffler.
 

Alex.Envy

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The restriction from the resonators in this system is small and I don't believe that removing them has much effect on temperature or velocity. I did a resonator delete as soon as it was available, and while I didn't chart muffler temperatures before/after, I believe that removing the resonator in insignificant with respect to any influence in temperature at the muffler.
How much of a noise difference did it make? I want to make mine a little louder but full catbacks are like $2300 lol
 

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Epiphany

Epiphany

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A pretty mild tonal increase across the board. Set to track with a bit of throttle the car definitely sings now. I was 155mph on the straight at Roebling and everyone their loved it, comparisons to NASCAR came up a few times. I was a bit over the db limit it the res delete too but they were very cool about it.

A shitty phone clip somebody made that really doesn't capture it even with the volume up.



From when I installed the Lethal pipe a year ago now out in my unheated shop - it was very cold.

 
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Epiphany

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I updated the initial post in this thread with Ford's recent TSB on the matter (in this post as well). Looks like Ford finally deemed these issues worthy of attention. Interesting that they point out checking the actuator bracket clearance, tailpipe/clamp insertion, and finally to look for harness chafing.

Thanks again B for bringing this one to everyone's attention.
 

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Jmeo

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I updated the initial post in this thread with Ford's recent TSB on the matter (in this post as well). Looks like Ford finally deemed these issues worthy of attention. Interesting that they point out checking the actuator bracket clearance, tailpipe/clamp insertion, and finally to look for harness chafing.

Thanks again B for bringing this one to everyone's attention.
He is the man, he helps me out on a regular basis.
 

SSR001

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Today I had the same message with only 450 miles!

Any update of why it can be the issue?
 

Cobra Jet

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Today I had the same message with only 450 miles!

Any update of why it can be the issue?
Did you read through this 9-page thread or take a look at Post #127?
 

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Hi all,

I read the whole forum and the PDF, still looking for some advice please. Hope you can help!

I put some aftermarket back boxes without any valves as I wanted it to keep the system fully open at all times. I left the wiring and actuators connected and as there is no metal enclosure to hold the actuators, I bound them under the car near the back boxes ensuring they won’t touch any of it. especially the bit they would usually be touching the spring. Also checked and replaced the pig tail wiring as it was getting worn because it was touching the metal as shown above. Up until I changed the back boxes, etc as described above, I had zero issues.

However, even with the actuators not touching anything, every time I change drive modes and at speed, I initially get some quick split second errors regarding drive mode selection and also changing exhaust modes. Eventually the orange engine light would come on, it will tell me the drive mode and / or the exhaust selection option will show up and the respective error codes will appear on the OBD reader.

Are the errors happening because I have left the actuators connected at the back without the spring and the metal enclosure they were in like on the stock back boxes?

Do the actuators have to be connected to their springs and the whole mechanism with the flap, because of some sort of pressure sensing for it to work?

And/Or is it because they might be jiggled around at speed? Having said that even after I slowed down it is still acting up after the errors come up in the fist place at speed.

Pulling my hair our trying to figure this out.

I tried these:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Mus...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

However, I got the exhaust valve not working error message as soon as I installed them. I was advised to clear the error out and move on. I haven’t tested that and I am reluctant because I think the error won’t really go away. If it keeps coming up and the orange engine light comes up, limp mode of sorts will kick in.

The only idea I see is to move over the metal box, keep the spring attached and simulate the whole system working under / at the back.

Many thanks for any advise or thoughts!

Mustang GT 2019
 
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Epiphany

Epiphany

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Updated first post with newly released TSB (download at bottom of first post). Here are the contents of the TSB. Thanks again B!

54-page-001.jpg


54-page-002.jpg


54-page-003.jpg


54-page-004.jpg
 

WD Pro

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Looking for help and any tips n tricks to line up the spring clip on the actuator with the valve - mine don’t quite line up, it’s like the spring needs to be under just a little tension for it to align ?

@kilobravo - way back in this thread you asked about a ring and never got a response. It looks like something from https://patrickadairdesigns.com/ :like: (I have something similar that’s just been made from cobalt chromium).

WD :like:
 
 




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