Updated 3/27/2021 & 5/5/2022 - A look at the 2020 GT500 and exhaust system valves

[AMBJR]

FYI I removed the Grimmspeed exhaust valve simulators and pigtails from my 350 and installed them on the 500 to keep the exhaust in track mode all the time. Seems to be working fine but haven’t been able to drive it yet to see if anything pops up. Right now if I hit the valve mode button I get a message saying not available. You should be able to leave the car in any mode you want at all times by using one of these on each side.

I understand the GT350 is a 3 wire system and the GT500 is a 4 wire system!!!

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[Rapid Red]

Well, 300 miles on my car now and started getting the dreaded message today.

Turn car off and back on and active exhaust would work for a little bit and then I would get the not available message.

lubrication issue?

I need to do a more detailed inspection but wiring looked fine.

Had the very same problem a week ago. Second event with the active exhaust system. First was my fault after installing the X pipe. The one you are describing, being the most recent.

Opened the valves, removed the plugs, tie up the pink tails, problem solved. I always drive with them open anyway, figured what's the point.

Error shows up at start up. Car will not complain again until next start up. I can ignore that without any problem.
LOL

 

[Nos-pete]

At some point, some of you may see a message on the dash that looks something like this...

The dreaded "exhaust mode selection not available" message isn't new as GT350 owners get hit with it every now and then too. There are a number of reasons why the message can come up from melted harnesses, blown fuses, sticking butterfly valves, failed actuators, etc. Since I've spent a lot of time getting to know this exhaust system I figured I'd share what I've seen to date with this system.

I originally added a Lethal Performance resonator delete to my car not long after receiving it. It is a cut and clamp affair and while I was very happy with the sound I wanted to pull the section from the x-pipe back and tig weld it back up. Once reinstalled I wanted to tweak the mufflers so that the quad tips were more in line horizontally. You can tweak here and there a small amount. I wanted more freedom so I cut the mufflers at the fore end, aligned them to my satisfaction, and tack welded everything so I could pull the system again and weld it back up on the ground.

Pulling the system isn't that complicated, it just takes a little time. I removed the rear undertray, disconnected the actuator harnesses, loosened the exhaust clamps/hangers, lowered the system down, and got to work. I just figured this would also be an opportunity to show what you don't normally see regarding the actuators and their butterfly valves below. So with the system out this is what you see...

The actuators are perched up above the tips just aft of the mufflers. They are difficult to access from underneath the car. The shaft and plate (or butterfly valve) that they rotate when called upon resides beneath them.

So if you are this week's winner of the "exhaust mode selection not available" message you can either look yourself and/or drop the car off at your dealer for repair and enter the "that fucking dent wasn't there when I dropped the car off" contest.

I put this quick video together to help illustrate.



The above video should put the next few photos into context.

I'm not 100% sure this gets lubricant where I want but it shows that you could get something to the upper shaft "area" without pulling the actuator off...

I reassembled after cleaning/lubricating and reinstalled the system. It gets easier each time you do it.

Most importantly, inspect your harnesses in the area of the valves, ensuring they are not in contact with the mufflers or the tips as they exit the mufflers. Some have had issues with melted harness and blown fuses. When this happens you'll likely get a message regarding mode issues. One of my harnesses was sitting on the exhaust system as it's pushpin to hold it up and away was never put into place. I rerouted it giving it more clearance and zip tied it.

You can also have a valve that simply froze up or an actuator that died. But you should be in a better position now to try to identify for yourself what may happened.

1st off want to say this is One of the best threads ever well addressed and very clean job I’d say almost perfect and only almost cause nothing is. But I’m a GT500 owner it’s a 2020 and have just got the exhaust light and my mufflers have a mind of there own for the first 10 min of cold start and after every shut off they open close squeak and get me very upset. Lol

 

[Rapid Red]

Have some thoughts, squeaking two problems, easy one first. Shoot some WD wet it, at the top of the valve. Hit the shaft from inside the tips, wetting the top area the WD will take care on the lower part, gravity.

Do both, the heat cycles can cause moisture to build up. Some rust will cause the valve to be sticky, run slow full open & close. That squeaking is telling you that, cure that thinking you will be fine, nothing to loose

That brings me to the second problem, when the ignition is turned on the valves run a full cycle. If that is slow, caused by any binding (squeaking) from the shaft. It will fault, error seen.

Also the frequency of the car beginning driven also is in play. For insentience, a DD will not have this problem, where as a hobby car or a winter stored car for that matter. Is more likely have it, that said, folks get all crazy with fuel stabilizers. Would best advised to coat the shaft of these valves.

An Exhaust system will rust more, the less driven, and yes SS (lower grades) also.

 

[Nos-pete]

Have some thoughts, squeaking two problems, easy one first. Shoot some WD wet it, at the top of the valve. Hit the shaft from inside the tips, wetting the top area the WD will take care on the lower part, gravity.

Do both, the heat cycles can cause moisture to build up. Some rust will cause the valve to be sticky, run slow full open & close. That squeaking is telling you that, cure that thinking you will be fine, nothing to loose

That brings me to the second problem, when the ignition is turned on the valves run a full cycle. If that is slow, caused by any binding (squeaking) from the shaft. It will fault, error seen.

Also the frequency of the car beginning driven also is in play. For insentience, a DD will not have this problem, where as a hobby car or a winter stored car for that matter. Is more likely have it, that said, folks get all crazy with fuel stabilizers. Would best advised to coat the shaft of these valves.

An Exhaust system will rust more, the less driven, and yes SS (lower grades) also.

Great idea s I’ve looke

Have some thoughts, squeaking two problems, easy one first. Shoot some WD wet it, at the top of the valve. Hit the shaft from inside the tips, wetting the top area the WD will take care on the lower part, gravity.

Do both, the heat cycles can cause moisture to build up. Some rust will cause the valve to be sticky, run slow full open & close. That squeaking is telling you that, cure that thinking you will be fine, nothing to loose

That brings me to the second problem, when the ignition is turned on the valves run a full cycle. If that is slow, caused by any binding (squeaking) from the shaft. It will fault, error seen.

Also the frequency of the car beginning driven also is in play. For insentience, a DD will not have this problem, where as a hobby car or a winter stored car for that matter. Is more likely have it, that said, folks get all crazy with fuel stabilizers. Would best advised to coat the shaft of these valves.

An Exhaust system will rust more, the less driven, and yes SS (lower grades) also.

As I looked in driver side muffler valve open I shot it with WD then went to passenger side and looked a bit weired as it was shut half flashed the light in it to find some foreign debris lodged between the sidewall and the flap fished it out and all is fine now here’s a look at what was in there

 

[Rapid Red]

Great idea s I’ve looke


As I looked in driver side muffler valve open I shot it with WD then went to passenger side and looked a bit weired as it was shut half flashed the light in it to find some foreign debris lodged between the sidewall and the flap fished it out and all is fine now here’s a look at what was in there

Well that's a good one, need to add that to the list of what ifs. And a new addition to the thread.

 

[fishpick]

@Nos-pete what is is? Looks like rubber gasket???

 

[Nos-pete]

@Nos-pete what is is? Looks like rubber gasket???

it isn’t rubber it’s a metal material like an aluminum like mesh pretty tough am thinking it is from the red Anatole as mine is still on the car

 

[Jmeo]

Very possibly muffler packing that came free and got stuck in the valve.

 

[Alex.Envy]

how long did it take for the exhaust to break in? Few friends drove behind me and said it stunk pretty bad. I got out to take a sniff and its actually really nasty. Last few cars I've had were broken in around 500 miles, this one seems to be taking longer - wonder if the active exhaust has anything to do with it

 

[Rapid Red]

No answer, but some cars really do stink. That said and because I've ridden behind the exact model of same that do not.
My thinking is it's the fuel or some snake oil gas additive, 100HP in a bottle, being used. Cannot think of a mechanical reason for it.

 

[kilobravo]

I'm nearly certain that my girl uses deoderant AND mouthwash.

 

[cactus_kid]

Another member who participated the Track Attack just recently was told to use Liquid Wrench. This was an tech with Ford Performance@ track attack. I thought one would prefer WD-40 tho.

WD40 is highly combustible which is why I don't like it. L W has a non flammable spray lubricant on the market.

 

[cactus_kid]

Oh yeah, the Borla system was designed for it. In fact, I'd say the butterfly hardware and the cast body that surrounds it was prepped and better toleranced than Ford's. I stacked the Borla system atop the factory GT350 for comparison...

Bends were more gradual (hence the funky path) with gentler radii, stainless was 304 instead of 409, and the system fit well. The butterflies operated with more precision and would snap shut perfectly. You can see how the mufflers were ready for the factory actuators and the stamping to receive them looked identical to Ford's.

Borla system was expensive but absolutely top-notch quality.

Ford Performance has really slacked off in terms of performance offerings for the GT350 and I sense a lackluster showing with the GT500 from them as well. I can see them carrying a GT500 Borla system again though.

I've had the opportunity to meet with David Borla over the years at the Corvette Bash in BG. Top notch guy. Just like his companies products. Very accessible. He truly enjoys engaging with his customers.

 

[Rapid Red]

WD40 is highly combustible which is why I don't like it. L W has a non flammable spray lubricant on the market.

Not a chance using WD on the exhaust shafts inside the tips, is fire hazard. I could spell it out if asked, but commons sense should prevail.

The warning label on the product does mention that it is flammable. Lots of things are if used incorrectly.

Did you know spray paint is "highly combustible"

Do you use spray paint, I rest my case.

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