A few questions!

[Jakester]

Hey everyone!

I had a few questions and was hoping you guys could help me out!

First off, I was considering getting a clay bar. I've never used a clay bar on a car, so I'm not exactly sure how to use it or if my car really needs it or not. Though I would like to get some tips on how to use one and get one. I was looking on Amazon and see hundreds of different brands and different "grades". Can you guys recommend a some brands to me? Should I also be looking at light/medium grades or which one should I get. I'm kind of at a loss if you haven't noticed lol!

Second, do you guys have a favorite window cleaner? I don't know why, but I feel like I'm having a hard time getting them spotless. I'm using a microfiber towel and a can of 3M Foam Window Cleaner I had (Interior and Exterior), for who knows how long. I just always seem to have streak marks. Safe for window tint is also a must! Thanks!

Last, but not least...I just noticed and I'm not sure how they got there, but there are some water spots on my back right fender. They will just not come out though! I've tried using the detailer spray I had and a Microfiber Towel, but they are just not coming out at all. Any recommendations? I haven't washed it again yet, so they might come out next time I wash it, but wasn't sure what was going on.

P.s. Are there any other products you guys recommend?

Thank you so much!

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[Smokey613]

The best window cleaning towel is actually crumpled up newspaper. Just use glass cleaner and use the newspaper instead of a towel. Do not soak the newspaper, just spray the cleaner and use the paper. I learned this in the early 80’s from inmates that cleaned our patrol cars.

 

[ugstang17]

autotopia or autogeek will have all your detailing answers. They even have a forum.

 

[dh3605]

The water spots should come off easily with a clay bar. I used Meguiars yesterday to get some substance off of wife’s car that actually looked as if it had penetrated the clear coat. Bought at Target for 11.39. Plenty of how to videos on YouTube. Invisible Glass and their tool for cleaning glass.

 

[Timeless]

Hey everyone!

I had a few questions and was hoping you guys could help me out!

First off, I was considering getting a clay bar. I've never used a clay bar on a car, so I'm not exactly sure how to use it or if my car really needs it or not. Though I would like to get some tips on how to use one and get one. I was looking on Amazon and see hundreds of different brands and different "grades". Can you guys recommend a some brands to me? Should I also be looking at light/medium grades or which one should I get. I'm kind of at a loss if you haven't noticed lol!

Second, do you guys have a favorite window cleaner? I don't know why, but I feel like I'm having a hard time getting them spotless. I'm using a microfiber towel and a can of 3M Foam Window Cleaner I had (Interior and Exterior), for who knows how long. I just always seem to have streak marks. Safe for window tint is also a must! Thanks!

Last, but not least...I just noticed and I'm not sure how they got there, but there are some water spots on my back right fender. They will just not come out though! I've tried using the detailer spray I had and a Microfiber Towel, but they are just not coming out at all. Any recommendations? I haven't washed it again yet, so they might come out next time I wash it, but wasn't sure what was going on.

P.s. Are there any other products you guys recommend?

Thank you so much!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCE0kcuDlwjfP2982jVH6WkQ/videos

You're welcome.

 

[Kristian87]

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCE0kcuDlwjfP2982jVH6WkQ/videos

You're welcome.

I second this! Another great channel is "Ammo NYC" https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYsa8SOy3TkoxI5D17s1u-w he'll tell you everything you need to know! Also, from the UK, "Forensic Detailing Channel" is excellent https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_4lRohBzY20wjsFGWS0Jzg

I picked up a lot of my knowledge from the Adams Polishes website - I think their product videos are brilliant & as such I have & use most of their range!

Re clay bar - depending on who you ask, you shouldn't NEED to do this unless you going to go on and polish the paint, claying is primarily a "decontamination" step, typically used before polishing. That said, depending on what delights are stuck to your paintwork, you'll find a regular clay (2-4 times a year) will get your paint super clean & smooth like glass - this is a good (I'd argue essential) step to take for when you then go on to lay down some paint sealant/wax or other protection. My car lives outside & I will do it 2-4 times a year I would say. If you haven't yet done it with yours, I think you'll be surprised at the difference it makes - especially to the feel of the paint when you glide your fingers across it. Also good for removing stubborn water spots. As for a "how to", just watch a few youtube vids. As far as I'm concerned, clay is clay, a light or medium should be fine. Be careful of overspending on "clay lube" or detail spray. For the function of lubrication for claying, you can normally water down some detail spray to save on using too much product. Plenty of tips online about making this yourself. So I guess what I'm trying to say in a long winded kinda way is yes, get yourself a clay bar!

Glass - I've not used many glass cleaners, but my favorite is the Adams Polishes one - it's the only one I've used that seems to hold on to it's water repellent properties for a good amount of time. The key with cleaning glass is to use dedicated glass towels - the moment you use a mf towel that's had something else on it (wax, polish residue, all purpose cleaner etc), that's when you start to get streaks. Different types of glass cleaning towels too; low pile, waffle, 2 sided - couldn't tell you which is best, still trying to work that out myself! But get yourself 2 good quality towels - one for cleaning, and one for buffing away residue.

Water spot - you'll likely find that the clay bar will remove it but some can be stubborn I know. There are dedicated water spot remover sprays which work well, but I've only ever used that on my glass. Other than that, you may need to get a touch of polish on it & just hand polish (use a "one step" polish).

Sorry for the long reply, I could ramble on about detailing for ages! You may find this post I did a while back of interest in the UK section (post #295); https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/us-detailing-vs-uk-washing-the-car.25175/page-15 it just talks about the process & products I use.

If you're looking for an "all rounder" brand for cleaning & detailing, you can't go wrong with Adams Polishes. I'm not insisting they do the best of everything, but in general their products are great quality & well priced in my opinion. My top 3 products would be the detail spray, the H2o gaurd & gloss paint sealant & the tire shine.

Happy detailing

 

[Jakester]

Thank you again, everyone!

Just to piggyback off this same thread, instead of making a new one...I had one more question!

After a wash I typically use a spray wax such as Turtle Wax Ice or Eagle One Marine w/Carnuba Spray Wax. I also bought Bead maker after hearing numerous good things about it.

Would I be able to apply my Spray Wax with the Bead maker on top of it? Or would this replace my spray wax, I've heard conflicting things about it? I don't mind the extra work, I just want it to look as nice as possible without having to buy anything else or use a paste/liquid wax just quite yet.

 

[Kristian87]

Thank you again, everyone!

Just to piggyback off this same thread, instead of making a new one...I had one more question!

After a wash I typically use a spray wax such as Turtle Wax Ice or Eagle One Marine w/Carnuba Spray Wax. I also bought Bead maker after hearing numerous good things about it.

Would I be able to apply my Spray Wax with the Bead maker on top of it? Or would this replace my spray wax, I've heard conflicting things about it? I don't mind the extra work, I just want it to look as nice as possible without having to buy anything else or use a paste/liquid wax just quite yet.

Other way round...beadmaker then wax. My understanding is that the sealants go down first as they are more durable and last longer. A carnuba wax will of course give you additional protection and a good load of shine, but will wear off quicker than the sealant.

I’ve only used beadmaker a couple of times and was very impressed, real easy to use and the shine/gloss from a light application was crazy good! I actually used it as a drying aid - so spray on to wet paintwork after cleaning and dry with a good quality drying towel

 

[fiveoboy01]

As mentioned, clay is a decontamination step.

I do NOT clay any vehicle unless it's getting polished afterwards, because clay is abrasive and can cause marring of the finish. Think about the contamination you're picking up and dragging across the surface. A piece of brake dust looks like broken glass under a microscope.. that's why it sticks to the paint in the first place. So yes, clay is a great step, but polishing should follow. This goes double for colors like black and others that show every single defect.

If you're looking for a chemical decontamination, you can use an iron remover(such as CarPro Iron X or similar). This will attack and break down iron deposits in the paint and they can be pressure washed away.

Note that for a complete decon, a chemical iron remover AND clay are generally used. Neither alone will get everything, but individually they do a decent job.

I use Gyeon Glass for windows. It's slightly pricey but idiot proof. Combine it with a Griot's PFM towel(lint free) and if you're leaving streaks, well... you're dumber than me

Lots of debates about sealers. My opinion is that stacking them is useless and a waste of time. There's no shine difference(perceived placebo affect) and no real gain in longevity. Sealers and waxes don't necessarily stick to each other too well especially when mixing products. One coat is plenty, and with the relative low longevity(4-6 months in most cases) you'll be doing it twice a year no matter what. Obviously that will vary with miles driven, etc.... Bead maker is a good product. Longevity isn't awesome. A good polymer paste sealer like Meg's 21 or Power Lock+ are what I usually recommend, with a silica sealant(CarPro Reload, GTechniq C2V3) for ceramic coated cars.

 

[Jakester]

Thank you all again for the help!

I had a couple more questions I was hoping someone could help with. Hopefully I'm not being a bother! Just trying to figure all this out and learn still!

I've noticed on every window on the car, there are what seems to be water spots? Or some sort of spotting? It will not wash/wipe off at all. I can't tell if it's interior or exterior, but I am assuming it's exterior since I have tint on some windows with the spots and some without. I tried to get some pictures of it, but it was extremely hard to pick up in camera. I know it's probably not any help, but I wanted to give an example of something at least. Do you think this is where a clay bar would be necessary on the windows?? I have no clue what else to try.

Also, more of a just looking for recommendations..what do you guys use to clean and protect the dash, right below the windshield? Is that actually "leather"? I'm trying to figure out what I can use on it to make it not look "Faded" and Protect it. It's still a new car, so it doesn't look faded necessarily, but it looks like the color could be deeper. I do plan on getting a sunshade as well, I just haven't parked outside too much yet. Have to look around for a nice one that will fit.

Again...thank you in advance!

 

[fiveoboy01]

What you're seeing on the glass is one of two things:

Mineral deposits left behind when water evaporates.

Or, if the deposits are left on long enough, they can actually etch the glass.

My guess is that it's the former. An acid-based water spot remover will dissolve the minerals so they can be wiped away. I like 3D's Eraser water spot remover. You should be able to find it online. You MUST follow the directions. Leaving water spot removers on glass too long can cause damage as the acid will eventually etch the glass. Used properly, it works great with no damage.

If those spots are etching(and again I really doubt they are), you'll need to polish the glass to remove them, and that's a pain in the ass and messy. A special compound and pad for glass polishing is needed.

 

[Jakester]

What you're seeing on the glass is one of two things:

Mineral deposits left behind when water evaporates.

Or, if the deposits are left on long enough, they can actually etch the glass.

My guess is that it's the former. An acid-based water spot remover will dissolve the minerals so they can be wiped away. I like 3D's Eraser water spot remover. You should be able to find it online. You MUST follow the directions. Leaving water spot removers on glass too long can cause damage as the acid will eventually etch the glass. Used properly, it works great with no damage.

If those spots are etching(and again I really doubt they are), you'll need to polish the glass to remove them, and that's a pain in the ass and messy. A special compound and pad for glass polishing is needed.

Thank you! I will look into the product you recommended, hopefully that's what is going on!

 

[GentlemanJack]

I can't believe there has been this many posts and no one has suggest Spray Away glass cleaner. It is one of the few glass cleaners that is safe for tint because its ammonia free. I would highly recommend this product, you can find it at Home Depot, WalMart and sometimes at O'Reilly auto parts.

 

[fiveoboy01]

There are many more than a "few" tint-safe glass cleaners. Pretty much any glass cleaner for automotive use will be tint-safe.

Now if you're referring to the glass cleaner shelf at Home Depot, which is geared towards your home's windows, then yes, SprayAway may be one of the few there that is safe for tinted glass.

 

[Yareen1]

Hello again Jake,

1. Clay dosent hurt to use, I think all new cars should be clayed since they travel on rail roads, and have a decent amount of industrial fallout on them. Its quick easy and fun. Chemical guys clay, mothers, griots garage are all good picks.
2. I use chemical guys window cleaner and its good, nothing special. The key is to use little product as someone mentioned with the newspaper trick.
3. Those spots may or may not come out with clay bar, it could be hard water that had enough time to be ectched into the paint. If the clay bar dosent do it a quick light polish will take care of it.

Also regarding beadmaker, I use it ontop of collinite 915 wax and its great, however Im not sure how it would work with ice wax. Ice wax itself is a fantastic product. I dont see why it wouldnt work but id probably rather have a coat of proper sealent, wax( collinite 845, 915) and using wither ice or beadmaker as a final coat and drying aid. Just my $0.02

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