60-130mph times for boosted cars

[gimmie11s]

770

Wow, I would have thought more. Seems your suspension/tire situation is dialed. Very nice.

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[Andy13186]

Wow, I would have thought more. Seems your suspension/tire situation is dialed. Very nice.

I had ET street R's and those didnt work for me, the indy500s do better for me, IDK why. Cant hook below 50 mph though still.

 

[Phils15GT]

Don't have anymore but my 19 gt with 7lb spring did 5.6 60-130 on e85. A10

 

[CORNYOTE]

My junk

 

[15GTPP]

Switching from a 3.55 diff to 3.15 to hopefully help fight some traction issues. My new set of et street r feathered in the rear as well and don’t grab anymore.

 

[LSchicago]

Switching from a 3.55 diff to 3.15 to hopefully help fight some traction issues. My new set of et street r feathered in the rear as well and don’t grab anymore.

I'm surprised no one makes a 2.93 or 2.73 gear for these cars yet.

 

[15GTPP]

I'm surprised no one makes a 2.93 or 2.73 gear for these cars yet.

With the 315/50/17 being a 29.5 inch tire, I believe it actually makes the ratio somewhere close to a 2.93.

 

[LSchicago]

With the 315/50/17 being a 29.5 inch tire, I believe it actually makes the ratio somewhere close to a 2.93.

These make my 3.55 equal to a 3.31, so without doing the math that sounds about right.

 

[gimmie11s]

Fast cars!!

 

[Platinum_5.0]

These are some exciting times. I have my Whipple arriving Friday and it's a full build. 1000hp clutches, suspension, ET Street R's, full fuel system and 1050's and all griptec pulleys down to a 3.1...lol..my DA is 3800 on average but I'm hoping to see some great times like you guys

Edit: it's a 21 10R car

 

[M-Driver]

I am highly impressed and jealous about the times you are putting down. My best 100-200 km/h (62-124 mph) is a 6,3 seconds with a 2016 AT, Edelbrock Stage 1, 3.25" pulley with 715 crank HP. But I am always on the edge traction and 100-200 is not my primary goal. I mostly drive on curvey country roads, but still still admire your 5,X and 4,X times.

How many pulls in a row can you do without risking the rings to blow your pistons? Or do you you all have forged internals.

 

[LSchicago]

Frankly, I roll my eyes anytime anyone quotes a boost pressure value, it's arguably the most inaccurate measurement we discuss in the automotive enthusiast world. Tire pressure gauges are more accurate. Hell, fuel level gauges are more accurate. If you put 8' of coffee straw between the vacuum/boost source and the gauge, it'll tell you it's running at ambient pressure.

8' of coffee straws would leak like a sieve, and probably be at ambient. But no one uses coffee straws to feed an engine. Hell those things are horrible to drink double shots out of. (Drinking game)

 

[Cory S]

If you put 8' of coffee straw between the vacuum/boost source and the gauge, it'll tell you it's running at ambient pressure.

Wrong. You're still filling that 8' coffee straw with pressure, once the volume fills. Engine won't consume anymore than it can.....The gauge will read exactly the same.

 

[Andy13186]

I am highly impressed and jealous about the times you are putting down. My best 100-200 km/h (62-124 mph) is a 6,3 seconds with a 2016 AT, Edelbrock Stage 1, 3.25" pulley with 715 crank HP. But I am always on the edge traction and 100-200 is not my primary goal. I mostly drive on curvey country roads, but still still admire your 5,X and 4,X times.

How many pulls in a row can you do without risking the rings to blow your pistons? Or do you you all have forged internals.

Keep IAT's reasonable and there should be no problem. May not be good to do long pulls if your car is heat soaked from idling in traffic in the summer though. Also need to use good fuel. I do a run then I have to cross the bridge in the opposite direction so that gives some time to cool down but I dont think my car even needs it.

My motor is bone stock , no OPGs or anything.

 

[Angrey]

Keep IAT's reasonable and there should be no problem. May not be good to do long pulls if your car is heat soaked from idling in traffic in the summer though. Also need to use good fuel. I do a run then I have to cross the bridge in the opposite direction so that gives some time to cool down but I dont think my car even needs it.

My motor is bone stock , no OPGs or anything.

There's some competing interests at play here.

First off, lower IAT's will make the problem worse, not better. Lower IAT's means more power. More power means more fuel+air which means more heat. More heat means more expansion of the rings.

Heat soak is one thing but once the heads get up to temp, it's not like they're cooling off below equilibrium.

IAT's affect how much timing and the trims, but having it lower isn't helping the temp at the cylinders/rings. In fact, running a long rip in the cold on a stock motor with big power is a nice recipe for ring expansion and eventually bind and scrape/boom.....sad face.

The best way to limit ring contact risk is just to NOT do rips over 130. Long sustained WOT is what heats up the head and piston temps. Cooler conditions heats them up more because you're able to make more power with more fuel and air.

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