60’ needs work.

[Kevn]

My first time at the track was 6/20/19.
Had a great time.
Plan to go back.
Was happy with my results.

My first run was around 6pm and the last was around 8:30pm
My time slips are chronological in the pic.
I started at 20 psi(rears) and dropped 1 psi (pre burnout) every pass.
I’m pretty sure I had zero traction issues... but, what do I know? It WAS my first time at the track.

I keep reading that I need to improve 60’ times for better 1/4 mile ET’s. I’m not sure where I should start.

2016 Mustang GT (premium- if it even matters)
Automatic
3.15
Transmission in D
Drive mode in Normal
STEEDA closed CAI
STEEDA 93 octane Tune
BMR CB005-cradle lockout.
FRPP track shocks/ struts.
BMR SP083 springs.
MT ET STREET S/S - 275/40/17
Bradenton Motorsporst Park
DA- 2700

I was a bit nervous with the whole process(newbie).... and didn’t log my launch RPM’s every run...
At first I concerned myself with my R/T’s... before I realized they really don’t matter!!
I’d guess I was “foot brake stalled” at or near about 1200 rpm every run.

Constructive criticism welcome.
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[ugstang17]

I don't see anything stated about disabling advance trac (hold traction control switch on for over 5 seconds until advancetrac off displays). Disable it if you have not. My best passes on a 17" R series was on 17-18psi. The burnout is as important as anything else. Each trip may require a shorter or linger burnout. An overcast day will be different than a sunny day, just as warmer vs colder. Both effect how the track will hook and how long you need to do your burn out. The first burnout of the evening is usually your big one. Let that one cook so to speak. Then on proceeding passes just a routine burnout that hazes the tires and generates a light amount of tire smoke. MT web site has some good 411 on this topic as well. Go there and read up on it.

Time your burnout in your head, or if you have the line lock function on the car notate on that timer when you release the brake and let it roll out. Also try rolling into the water box, doing a single spin rotation, roller out and then beginning your burn out forward of the box. Just rolling through doesn't get the tire fully wet every time. And you never wish to sit int he water and do your burn out regardless. If in doubt open the door and look back.

Leaving at 1200 on a factory converter is a good choice. I was told by Alex to bring the car up just off idle which I presume to be right at that point or a little less. THen just nail it and hope the burnout was right for the track condition and let it eat. Not much else to do with a slush box (O.G. term for automatic).

Speak to Kelly at BMR and ask him to email you his rear suspension alignment specs. It would be a good idea to have a reputable alignment shop go through the alignment and have them make it match Kelly's specs. I have yet to start adding rear suspension so I have not hit him up yet, though my parts are sitting in the basement as we speak. I just got my rear wheel setup today. So things will hopefully start coming together soon.

Note where your shift points are when you make your passes. datalog and look at them. If there is room and you feel comfortable raise the shift points in the tune accordingly as your rev limiter will allow.

Nice consistent passes especially for being newer. Last try leaving completely off idle a few times. Some guys have their best luck doing that. Going higher into the RPM band I have found on a stock converter yielded me nothing.

Good luck.

 

[ypena02]

You need to shut off traction control next time. These times are what bone stock GTs run.

 

[Kevn]

Thank you for your input.
I completely forgot to shut off traction control on the first run.
I did have traction control and Advance-Trac off on the remaining runs.

It handles 10x better than stock with the suspension setup I have now. I enjoy DRIVING the car daily, so I probably won’t change my suspension to a more drag specific setup. I’ll just swap to the Drag Radials for traction.

I will pay more attention to my burnout; I did like all the other folks there, drove around the water box, backed in/out, then a quick burnout.
I was still getting used to how the line lock works and kind of felt like people were waiting on me every time. I didn’t want to be “that guy” so I got a little smoke and then hurried up to stage.... which is another part I need to work on...staging.
Next time I will focus more on tire temperature relative to track temps, try leaving from idle, and learn how to data-log.

I’m curious now what my car would run bone stock down here. I thought the DA may have been the reason I was running 12.8’s ...and just accepted it.

Had a blast ...legally speeding.
Again, thanks for the input.

 

[ugstang17]

Screw what others think. You paid the same price to make passes that they did. Take your time but remember that your prestage burnout needs to become a procedure. It's as process you develop just like the staging procedure. There are protocols such as not "double bulbing" the other lane, and not "burning down" the other lane but that is something more observed during an actual competition. T/T nights are the place to learn all of this.

In golf you develop a routine. You work on it at the driving range not on the course. You use T/T night for the same process as well as setting the car up. Likewise in baseball you develop a routine when you come to bat. In basketball you develop a routing when shooting free throws. Drag racing pre-stage and staging are no different. Get the thought of being a hold up to others out of your head. Ever sit and watch the bikes may passes? Want to talk about slow....good freaking grief! But, they paid the same price you did so make the most of the night.

Last don't worry about reaction times. While developing your routine that is the last thing you need to be concerned about. It's always safer as well to simply sit there and let the other car leave first. You never know if that car may lose control off the line and find himself in your passenger seat. I had that happen to me when a 9sec race car staged next to me. We left together and the next thing I know he is in my lane at the 60ft mark. not a fun ride when you are still making payments on a car. Doesn't happen often but it happens.

The rookie mistake you did not make which many first timers do is roll through the beams clear up to the tree to stage and then have to have the starter walk up to tell you that you need to back up to the starting line and stage.

 

[Jetnoise]

Your consistent!

 

[DavidHuff]

Put your mustang in S Mode and use your paddle shifter to do your burnout.
Start out in 1 and run the rpm up to about 5000 RPM and paddle shift to 2 and really do a great burnout without hitting the Rev-Limiter.Just Saying

 

[ugstang17]

Stock? Ran my 13 GT (420HP Coyote) manual shift and it ran a best of 12.79 on street tires. 12.80's on a 2.0 60 was typical. No mods at all. Full weight premium. Not sure of the DA that day but it was early spring, sunny and real cool.

Another guy there with a 14 GT auto was running 12.6x to 12.7x in his claimed all stock setup.

The difference in base HP between 13/14 and 15-17 is 15FWHP. So there is some meat on your bone given the right air conditions. You'll likely find a 12.6x or even a bit better in some nice cool dense air.

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