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350R NA build

ReKatt

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I'm going to start with a bolt on setup for my 350R before most likely adding a Procharger. I may be missing a thing or two - list of everything is on a different computer.

Currently I have:

- ARH off road long system (headers & x pipe)
- JLT cold air intake
- Lund for tune
- Upgraded fuel injectors (FP)

Any recommended or key performance parts I should add to the list for the tune & car in general? Will be running primarily e85.

Other non tune related parts I have:

- MGW short shifter (gen 2) - ordered
- Steeda clutch spring
- JLT catch cans
- SRP race pedals
- Mcleod clutch line

The next big items on my list are some aero parts from Archetype Racing. Most likely a splitter & rear diffuser. Any other recommended parts in line with the ones mentioned above?

Cheers - will post pics / vids once the setup is complete in the next few weeks.

(car is mostly street driven - will start seeing the track more often late next year)
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ReKatt

ReKatt

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You have a 19, no reason for the Steeda clutch spring.
I already had it from a previous vehicle - figured might as well put it on. Unless stock still feels better
 

Inthehighdesert

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Our temps here in NM arenā€™t quite as bad as AZ, but are up there. A bigger radiator isnā€™t a bad idea.
 

Angrey

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N/A build ideas

JLT Intake and E85 flex and race dedicated tunes
Headers
Cerakote or Jet Hot (headers)
Rock blockers (obvious and cheap)
Catch Can (passenger side)
Jacking rails (if you're under the car as much as I am)
Forged Wheels (unless you're okay with exposing your expensive CF wheels to use and wear)
Nguage (for monitoring everything from ALC to Intake temps to spark advance, etc)
4.09/4.10 gears. This is expensive, but behind E85 and headers, made the biggest noticeable performance.
Splitter savers or Sliplo (for keeping your chin from damage)
Steeda K brace
Steeda subframe braces (rear)
Caliperfexion Studs (kinda optional but nice for getting to the front rotors)
CF driveshaft (if you want to drop some more weight)
Antigravity Battery and relocation (takes 35 lbs off the front and drops to less than 20 lbs in the right rear). Some research I've seen suggests it has the equivalent effect on balance of moving the motor back several inches.
Radium Coolant Expansion tank (saves space, looks better)
Hood struts (obvious reasons)
4th brake light
LED side markers
Sequential Brake light module
Interior LEDs (shits and giggles)
Floor mats
Rear seat delete (which you probably already have)
Caster/Camber plates (which you probably already have)
Hole Saw mod (enlarging strut tower opening for adjustments)
Canards/Divers
Brake duct diverters
Lowering springs
Bump Steer
Adjustable Sway end links (front and rear)
Shifter
Clutch line
5 point harness
Autoblip (if you like that sorta thing)
Smoked turn signals (if you don't like the Amber contrast for the front)
Radar Detector and mirror mount
Steed race K member (drops weight, creates more space)
Trackspec Hood Louvers
Aerocatch or Quicklatch hood pins
Carbon Fiber hood
Carbon Fiber trunk deck
170F Tstat
Oil Pump Gears, Crank Sprocket
GT500 Oil Pan and Pickup
GT500 valve covers
Tow Hook (front)
PPF for front
I went with Verus for my rear diffuser. Archetype is awesome, just know that you WILL end up having to do repairs to it if you drive a lot.

I'm probably missing some stuff.....but that's a good chunk of it.
 

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ReKatt

ReKatt

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N/A build ideas

JLT Intake and E85 flex and race dedicated tunes
Headers
Cerakote or Jet Hot (headers)
Rock blockers (obvious and cheap)
Catch Can (passenger side)
Jacking rails (if you're under the car as much as I am)
Forged Wheels (unless you're okay with exposing your expensive CF wheels to use and wear)
Nguage (for monitoring everything from ALC to Intake temps to spark advance, etc)
4.09/4.10 gears. This is expensive, but behind E85 and headers, made the biggest noticeable performance.
Splitter savers or Sliplo (for keeping your chin from damage)
Steeda K brace
Steeda subframe braces (rear)
Caliperfexion Studs (kinda optional but nice for getting to the front rotors)
CF driveshaft (if you want to drop some more weight)
Antigravity Battery and relocation (takes 35 lbs off the front and drops to less than 20 lbs in the right rear). Some research I've seen suggests it has the equivalent effect on balance of moving the motor back several inches.
Radium Coolant Expansion tank (saves space, looks better)
Hood struts (obvious reasons)
4th brake light
LED side markers
Sequential Brake light module
Interior LEDs (shits and giggles)
Floor mats
Rear seat delete (which you probably already have)
Caster/Camber plates (which you probably already have)
Hole Saw mod (enlarging strut tower opening for adjustments)
Canards/Divers
Brake duct diverters
Lowering springs
Bump Steer
Adjustable Sway end links (front and rear)
Shifter
Clutch line
5 point harness
Autoblip (if you like that sorta thing)
Smoked turn signals (if you don't like the Amber contrast for the front)
Radar Detector and mirror mount
Steed race K member (drops weight, creates more space)
Trackspec Hood Louvers
Aerocatch or Quicklatch hood pins
Carbon Fiber hood
Carbon Fiber trunk deck
170F Tstat
Oil Pump Gears, Crank Sprocket
GT500 Oil Pan and Pickup
GT500 valve covers
Tow Hook (front)
PPF for front
I went with Verus for my rear diffuser. Archetype is awesome, just know that you WILL end up having to do repairs to it if you drive a lot.

I'm probably missing some stuff.....but that's a good chunk of it.
That was beautiful. It's like picking from a Christmas list. Thank you! Definitely going to pick up a few things you mentioned.
 
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ReKatt

ReKatt

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Our temps here in NM arenā€™t quite as bad as AZ, but are up there. A bigger radiator isnā€™t a bad idea.
l - this car is also a daily so it sees the hot sunny days.
Our temps here in NM arenā€™t quite as bad as AZ, but are up there. A bigger radiator isnā€™t a bad idea.
Definitely not a bad idea - summer can get crazy hot.
 

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One of the beautiful things about the NA of the Voodoo is the balance of it with the car. Adding a Whipple or turbos will change that. A friend who I track with knows a guy who did this and says he regrets it. On top of that, cylinders 4 and 8 usually get hot and are the common problem areas of this engine. I dont know what the long term reliability would be on a Procharged voodoo. Either way, have fun with your build.
 

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I would also add the oil balancing lines from Archetype and BMR Handling Springs for more spring rate.

how do you think you will be tracking? road course or drag strip because the consensus seems to be that although more power is fun, it leads to unreliability and serious heat that you wonā€™t enjoy full sessions due to overheating issues. Others may have more knowledge and experience to help you with that. I know you are not doing power asset now but just to keep in mind.
 

Inthehighdesert

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If I was going to track the car a lot I would make some adjustments to return the weight bias back. You can eliminate the 4 and 8 cylinder issue with the rear cooling mods. The added power is a lot of fun in these cars though.

One of the beautiful things about the NA of the Voodoo is the balance of it with the car. Adding a Whipple or turbos will change that. A friend who I track with knows a guy who did this and says he regrets it. On top of that, cylinders 4 and 8 usually get hot and are the common problem areas of this engine. I dont know what the long term reliability would be on a Procharged voodoo. Either way, have fun with your build.
 

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Why are you changing out the clutch line?
 

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road course or drag strip because the consensus seems to be that although more power is fun, it leads to unreliability and serious heat that you wonā€™t enjoy full sessions due to overheating issues. Others may have more knowledge and experience to help you with that. I know you are not doing power asset now but just to keep in mind.
My current track car is turbo charged and I had to jump through quite a few hoops to take care of the heat issues. I bought my 350R to get away from all that added complexity. I find it interesting that others would buy this car and go the other direction with it. Seems to me like the car is mostly "maxed out" as it sits. In relation to adding FI, anyway. 12:1 AND forced induction? eek. Good luck to OP, though. I'm sure it will be fun.
 
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ReKatt

ReKatt

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I would also add the oil balancing lines from Archetype and BMR Handling Springs for more spring rate.

how do you think you will be tracking? road course or drag strip because the consensus seems to be that although more power is fun, it leads to unreliability and serious heat that you wonā€™t enjoy full sessions due to overheating issues. Others may have more knowledge and experience to help you with that. I know you are not doing power asset now but just to keep in mind.
Thanks for the suggestions. When tracked it will be road course. I would be more concerned with the heat if I went with turbos but I think supercharger/procharger should be fine with proper cooling mods.
 
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ReKatt

ReKatt

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My current track car is turbo charged and I had to jump through quite a few hoops to take care of the heat issues. I bought my 350R to get away from all that added complexity. I find it interesting that others would buy this car and go the other direction with it. Seems to me like the car is mostly "maxed out" as it sits. In relation to adding FI, anyway. 12:1 AND forced induction? eek. Good luck to OP, though. I'm sure it will be fun.
I'm falling into the category of driver who wants to turn it into a street monster even though that's not the intended purpose of this car. I just think it's so damn beautiful - I would not get the same feeling walking up to a hellcat or corvette. So I figure a fair compromise for best of both worlds is throwing on a blower. Most comments from people that have done this on the big boosted 350 thread have said it solves exactly what I mentioned above.

If I was going to dedicate this to the track I would not touch F/I.
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