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2020 Mustang GT Automatic overheated at track

GTP

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I didn't track any 90F days this year. I plan to start my season earlier next year, and with more days, and some hot days, too, I expect.

My car will be ready now that I added all 3 coolers plus the new brakes.
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Anything specific you are looking for?
Just how you mounted the brick and how you routed the lines? The first unit is held by brackets on the rad but the second would need to be mounted somewhere.
 

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Brick = trans cooler?

Actually, I did not "mount" the second lower cooler. The rubber pads spaced it evenly between the condenser and radiator, and above the lower plastic seal. I just don't think it moves around at all, even on track. Simple problem, simple solution.

I don't have a photo showing both coolers out of the car, and mocked up with the modified hardlines.

Can you visualize
  1. Upper hardline elbow flow enters the passenger side barb of the OEM upper cooler
  2. Flow exits upper cooler driver side barb, and enters the 9" hose extension
  3. Extension is connected to driver side barb of the lower cooler
  4. Flow exits passenger side barb of lower cooler, and then
  5. Enters the lower hardline elbow, (which was made by cutting and flipping it 180* so as to point it downward instead of upward - photos in posts #6 and #14)
So as you can see, only 1 foot of 1/2" fuel hose, a half dozen fuel line clamps, and a single hardline cut was required to implement all this. Manipulating things around and navigating all the "stuff in the way" was the hardest part.
 

Rodpwnz

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For what its worth I have a 23 GT 10AT and I've done 3 track days now with it 90 ambient and I've never seen any trans temp above 208. Now I may not be pushing it as hard as you all but maybe there is a 180 degree Tstat.
I didn't track any 90F days this year. I plan to start my season earlier next year, and with more days, and some hot days, too, I expect.

My car will be ready now that I added all 3 coolers plus the new brakes.
I’m curious if my Tstat is also 180? Temps stabilize at 195-200F on street. Is this what you’re seeing too?

Here are some pictures of my temps while casual and leisurely street/highway driving:

IMG_1591.jpeg


IMG_1592.jpeg


IMG_1593.jpeg

IMG_1594.jpeg
 
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paulm1

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I have a manual so i cant speak to the A10 in a mustang. But i have also towed campers trailers etc. with a variety of p/u trucks from ford an chevy up some big long hills. Nothing puts heat in a trans like that. The trans coolers i see people using are woefully small, i dont care what the efficiency claims are. Best trans coolers i've ever used on trucks have been repurposed A/C condensers. Flush em out, they work great. And you can pick them up in a salvage yard cheap.
 
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GTP

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I have a manual so i cant speak to the A10 in a mustang. But i have also towed campers trailers etc. with a variety of p/u trucks from ford an chevy up some big long hills. Nothing puts heat in a trans like that. The trans coolers i see people using are woefully small, i dont care what the efficiency claims are. Best trans coolers i've ever used on trucks have been repurposed A/C condensers. Flush em out, they work great. And you can pick them up in a salvage yard cheap.
That's an interesting idea. Buy a second OEM condenser, flush it, and then install it in between the original condenser and radiator. The original trans cooler would have to be discarded (or it makes a great diff cooler) due to room.

But it could be that the hard end connections might be problematic with interference.
 

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I’m curious if my Tstat is also 180? Temps stabilize at 195-200F on street. Is this what you’re seeing too?

Here are some pictures of my temps while casual and leisurely street/highway driving:
Yup! Mine looks the same. Although even with spirited mountain driving my temps stabilize at 196-198. Just commuting it'll rarely see 194, actually depending on how long I drive it may not eve heat up fully. It usually takes me about 30 minutes of driving to get to 180.
 

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Flyhalf

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hello... any update on the spring kit?
So. Having issues. I didn't update cause i dont know the issue.
So i upgraded the 10r80 with :
Extra clutch kit by suncoast.
The spring kit
Better clutch.
New oem converter.
The spring requires some drilling in the valve body.

Problem i have is : strong vibration on full throttle on 2800-3500 rpm.
If i disengage with the tune the lockup clutch the problem goes away so i suspect is converter related. But the spring kit change pressures. So we now go step by step.
We will install a new valvebody without the spring kit. To see if fix the issue. If not we go deeper.
It is painful.
I will keep you posted. This year has been... frustrating
 

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Gregory347

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Thanks for the info… I guess it’s not out of the question to have a defective new factory converter…but I’d do the same with swapping the valve body first… maybe converter clutch chattering?
 

Flyhalf

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Thanks for the info… I guess it’s not out of the question to have a defective new factory converter…but I’d do the same with swapping the valve body first… maybe converter clutch chattering?
It micro slips with WOT
so is related to pressures i think
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