2018 ROUSH PHASE 2 HEATSOAK

[2fast4you]

Hey Mustang fam,

Wanted to describe my situation and ask if the route im going is the right one.

I live in Florida. It gets pretty hot here.
One evening a few weeks back I got what seems to be heat soak. The temps were high. There was no power to the blower in high speeds. Even got beat by a stock scat pack… mine is a pp1 premium with the roush phase 2.
A-lot of people are advising me to go chiller kit. I was very surprised when this happened and the mopar guy was aswell. I have noticed a few times the power not being there when im getting on it even after driving the car for only 10-15 min.

I have an option to purchase the IC chiller kit. People have been stating they are good and will get rid of my heat soak issues.

now my car doesnt have any other upgrades besides the supercharger and stock tune. I bought it like this and dont have a tuner etc.
it is a magnaride car aswell with stock suspension.

For the IC chiller people, has this fixed your issue? For 2k I am hesitant and want to make sure .

also any other things I should be planning to pick up besides the obvious drag wheels and tires?
I do have active exhaust so want to avoid obnoxiously loud headers and expensive ones.

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[robvas]

There are almost 900 pages on this

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...s-who-actually-have-the-the-roush-kit.127474/

 

[2fast4you]

There are almost 900 pages on this

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...s-who-actually-have-the-the-roush-kit.127474/

Thank you bro! Very new here. Ill check it out!!
any advice on the other questions?

 

[Goterr0r]

That kit will work very well, but it sounds like your IC pump is not working right now. I went thru 2 of them on my last roush car. Do you monitor IAT2? If that temp gets above like 130 it starts pulling power the higher it climbs until your car is slower than a stock gt.... The replacement pump is only $300ish and a 30 minute job to get you back to where you were.

If you are not monitoring IAT2 i would highly recommend it on a TVS car. I bought an autometer interceptor gauge just to monitor it easily, but you can also do it with a WIFI/Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and something like OBDFusion on your phone.

 

[Zrussian13]

Even heat soaked in the middle of az summers I pull 10-20 cars on scat packs by 120mph so I'd look for an issue before throwing more parts at it. Stock mustang should run them heads up so you shouldn't ever lose to one boosted, even under less than ideal conditions.

 

[2fast4you]

That kit will work very well, but it sounds like your IC pump is not working right now. I went thru 2 of them on my last roush car. Do you monitor IAT2? If that temp gets above like 130 it starts pulling power the higher it climbs until your car is slower than a stock gt.... The replacement pump is only $300ish and a 30 minute job to get you back to where you were.

If you are not monitoring IAT2 i would highly recommend it on a TVS car. I bought an autometer interceptor gauge just to monitor it easily, but you can also do it with a WIFI/Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and something like OBDFusion on your phone.

I havent monitored it . But I am throwing code p0111 which says intake air temp sensor 1 circuit/range performance (bank 1)
There are days where the car is like on crack when I gun it. But in times i need it to be i get smoked by a stock charger…

 

[2fast4you]

Even heat soaked in the middle of az summers I pull 10-20 cars on scat packs by 120mph so I'd look for an issue before throwing more parts at it. Stock mustang should run them heads up so you shouldn't ever lose to one boosted, even under less than ideal conditions.

yeah thats why im shocked. I have an appointment set on the 16th with ford. I am pulling code p0111

 

[acemastr]

yeah thats why im shocked. I have an appointment set on the 16th with ford. I am pulling code p0111

Replace the MAP sensor, it's only $60 on Amazon.

 

[2fast4you]

Replace the MAP sensor, it's only $60 on Amazon.

do I need to replace any of the wires? Im such a newb when it comes to engine work.
Code says intake air temp sensor 1 circuit range/performance (bank 1)

 

[acemastr]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M37M9PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nope, unplug, plug.

You do have 2 of them, one on the side of the blower and one on the front of the lower manifold. Unsure which is the issue with your code

 

[2fast4you]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M37M9PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nope, unplug, plug.

You do have 2 of them, one on the side of the blower and one on the front of the lower manifold. Unsure which is the issue with your code

any way for me to find out? Ordering today. Thanks for the link!

 

[acemastr]

Could try unplugging the easy to access one on the side of the blower and see if it sets off a code, or if the current code persists. Process of elimination.

 

[2fast4you]

Could try unplugging the easy to access one on the side of the blower and see if it sets off a code, or if the current code persists. Process of elimination.

Do you know if both sensors are the same? If i just ordered 2 and called it a day lol.
I suppose ill need a tool to reset the check engine light

 

[acemastr]

I believe both are the same. Front one is a pain to get to, upper idler bracket needs to come off.

 

[robvas]

Even heat soaked in the middle of az summers I pull 10-20 cars on scat packs by 120mph so I'd look for an issue before throwing more parts at it. Stock mustang should run them heads up so you shouldn't ever lose to one boosted, even under less than ideal conditions.

Sadly some Roush cars have gone barely faster than stock when heat soaked, so I could see a well-running Challenger being able to keep one at bay if they get the jump

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