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2018 P2119 Code on Whipple

Ruiner46

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If it's in the tune, then there has to be something to log to figure it out. Ask Lund what parameters to look at and catch it in a datalog. If it's something to do with bad values in the torque management tables, then log as many sources as possible. In HPTuners, this would be parameters like Torque Source, Spark Source, Fuel Source, etc.
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gqneon

gqneon

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Yeah I sent the logs of it happening to Lund and he was pretty clear there was nothing to be done because I'm the only person having the problem with a 132mm throttle body so it must be mechanical.
 

ugstang17

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Just out of curiosity you may wish to datalog with KOEO and sweep the throttle slowly and then stab it a few times. This would allow you to observe the commanded peddle v feedback data and see how the two are interacting. You can download livelink from SCT's website for free and it will open and graph the Lund datalog file. You will just have to interpret Lunds abbreviations. The livelink II software will open any excel .csv file datalog and convert it. However you may have an app of freeware you are already using for that.

The voltage span on a TB is generally 0-5vdc on the feedback side. The motor drive side I am not as familiar with. However that all said all TB's today are torque management base controllled. So if all connections are good and all harnesses are good, and the sweep stays smooth and clean, then its back on the tuner IMHO. I have always been hesitant about trusting any remote tuner. Too easy to pass the buck or ignore email replies if everything doesn't fall into place. The best experience I have had in tuning remotely has been with VMP Performance...while Alex was still there. He was a great guy and showed the customer some respect. He is at Lund now who I am using. Otherwise I would still be tuning with VMP more than likely.

TB control is more than a simple command/feedback hard wired setup in case some may not be aware. While that may have been the way in the days of yore, it is ALL torque based driven today. I have read Greg Banish's book on advanced tuning twice and revisited the TB theory section on torque demand control theory countless times and still struggle to understand it at a level I would like to be able to. I need to see some hands on to get a better grasp often times and this is one of those times.

Good luck. Sorry to ramble on. Worse case you can always contact Jeff Chambers in Norwalk, Ohio at CRT Performance. Several guys here locally swear by this guy and he is the closest known Coyote tuner I am aware of that does not remote tune. He actually does it himself and understands the late model ECU's and strategies.
 

Burkey

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I’m not sure if this will help you but here goes.
My Lund tuned 16 threw the exact same code.
Lund insisted that it was a faulty TB.
I then had the car tuned on a dyno by another tuner.
No issues.
Having said that, I used the Lund tune recently but this time with the plug disconnected at the airbox and guess what? No dramas.
Clearly the TB wasn’t the issue.
 
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gqneon

gqneon

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Thanks guys. It does help - all suggestions are appreciated. I'm seriously thinking there's nothing wrong on the hardware side and that tuning is the culprit the more time I think on this. It wouldn't likely replicate the code throwing and limp mode with two separate throttle bodies and two separate harnesses the same way when both appeared physically fine. I'll see what Will@Whipple says but why would it only happen in second? Makes perfect sense it would be tune related.

I was cruising home from the track - not datalogging of course - and I did a series of shifts and it would no longer decelerate when I took my foot off the pedal - I could take my foot off the gas at highway speed and it would run STFT of 1.00 and maintain speed like I was holding the gas pedal at a steady speed. Even after down or upshifting. It had NEVER done that before. When I take my foot off the gas it always promptly returns to a STFT of 2.00 - except this time. I slowed down with the clutch in and exited the highway and stopped and it wouldn't do it again. NO idea on why but I WISH I had caught it in a log.
 

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Burkey

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Thanks guys. It does help - all suggestions are appreciated. I'm seriously thinking there's nothing wrong on the hardware side and that tuning is the culprit the more time I think on this. It wouldn't likely replicate the code throwing and limp mode with two separate throttle bodies and two separate harnesses the same way when both appeared physically fine. I'll see what Will@Whipple says but why would it only happen in second? Makes perfect sense it would be tune related.

I was cruising home from the track - not datalogging of course - and I did a series of shifts and it would no longer decelerate when I took my foot off the pedal - I could take my foot off the gas at highway speed and it would run STFT of 1.00 and maintain speed like I was holding the gas pedal at a steady speed. Even after down or upshifting. It had NEVER done that before. When I take my foot off the gas it always promptly returns to a STFT of 2.00 - except this time. I slowed down with the clutch in and exited the highway and stopped and it wouldn't do it again. NO idea on why but I WISH I had caught it in a log.
Ahh, yes, the old automatic cruise control...
I’ve had that one too although NOT on the Lund tune.
Mine came about with the custom tune. Typically third gear or above.
Remove foot from throttle, car would maintain speed.
Touch brakes, car would decal to the braked speed and then resume cruise.
Only way to stop it was to clutch in.
Again, 100% tune related.
 
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gqneon

gqneon

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I asked Lund about that condition and he said he's never seen it. Guess I'm chock full of firsts!
 
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gqneon

gqneon

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Here's what it looks like on Stacey's 18+ car with a 150mm throttle body

 

TX-Ripper

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From Whipple yestarday


We did some research and found that the code is tuning related. I'll have more details next week, but its not a TB failure, but its related to its base 0 position which varies as the TB heats up. We'll share our findings with Lund and PBD so they can better fix their cals to not see this issue.


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TX-Ripper

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Posted by @fmc_smt In another thread:

#2Jan 17, 2019
PAGE 1 OF 1
CUSTOMER SATISFACTION PROGRAM 18B34-S1
CPR © 2019 FORD MOTOR COMPANY
DEARBORN, MICHIGAN 48121
1/2019
CERTAIN 2018 MODEL YEAR F-150 AND 2019 MUSTANG EQUIPPED WITH 5.0L
ENGINE — THROTTLE BODY REPLACEMENT
OVERVIEW
In some of the affected vehicles, the throttle body in the vehicle engine may have been built with a
misinstalled torsion spring. A misinstalled torsion spring may cause illumination of the wrench light or
service engine soon indicator with reduced engine power.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Recommended Tool List:
General Tools
1/4" Drive Deep Socket- 7mm, 8mm
1/4" Drive Extension- 3"
1/4" Drive Ratchet (Power and Hand Tool)
1/4" Drive Torque Wrench
Plastic Pry Tool
Magnetic Pick Up Tool
Pliers
1. Replace the Throttle Body. Please follow the Workshop Manual (WSM) procedures in Section 303-04.
2. Using integrated diagnostic system (IDS) clear any diagnostic trouble codes(DTC's) present.
 

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18 Smoke

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I asked Lund about that condition and he said he's never seen it. Guess I'm chock full of firsts!
Did you get this resolved? Suddenly I’m having the same problem. Every time I do a burnout, when I let off the throttle P2119 limp mode! I have to just putt down the track or back out. It’s f’n embarrassing. I’m tuned by Rob@PBD
 
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gqneon

gqneon

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I swapped my throttle body internals to the oem original ones (motor and cover) and haven't had the issue return yet. But I've also not taken it to the track to truly flog it in 1/2/3/4 - and it almost always happened on 1-2 shift coming off the line. I can't confirm it's gone - but if timing ever works out I will. I have driven it reasonably hard since to see and haven't duplicated it though so it is possible it was this but I don't know for sure yet. One things for sure - it moves out when it wants to.
 

18 Smoke

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I swapped my throttle body internals to the oem original ones (motor and cover) and haven't had the issue return yet. But I've also not taken it to the track to truly flog it in 1/2/3/4 - and it almost always happened on 1-2 shift coming off the line. I can't confirm it's gone - but if timing ever works out I will. I have driven it reasonably hard since to see and haven't duplicated it though so it is possible it was this but I don't know for sure yet. One things for sure - it moves out when it wants to.
Rob actually fixed mine with 2 tune revisions. So far so good! Went to track Friday and got my 1st 9! Fingers crossed
Thanks
 
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gqneon

gqneon

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Rob actually fixed mine with 2 tune revisions. So far so good! Went to track Friday and got my 1st 9! Fingers crossed
Thanks
I wonder what he changed? Lund was sure it couldn't be tune related.
 

18 Smoke

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I wonder what he changed? Lund was sure it couldn't be tune related.
Can’t answer that, but whatever it was, it worked! He’s sending me a revision for E85 today with same changes
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