2018 Ecoboost caliper upgrade

[1QwkEcoBoost]

Yeah it actuates each abs line one at a time with someone in the car to push any air out of the abs module into the lines going to the calipers. Perform the abs service then bleed with a pressure bleeder like usual. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front inner then outer bleeder, driver front same procedure.

I know you probably already know the sequence just posting it up for those that don’t.

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[ihasnostang]

does having two bleed screws per caliper complicate the forscan process? watched a tutorial for a caliper with a single bleed and i was uncertain whether it purges for a certain amount of time, or until it senses no air. can this procedure be used to replace fluid with a higher boiling point fluid? Seems like a good tutorial for someone with a youtube channel

 

[1QwkEcoBoost]

does having two bleed screws per caliper complicate the forscan process? watched a tutorial for a caliper with a single bleed and i was uncertain whether it purges for a certain amount of time, or until it senses no air. can this procedure be used to replace fluid with a higher boiling point fluid? Seems like a good tutorial for someone with a youtube channel

When I changed my calipers I also swapped in new Motul RBF600 fluid. All the ABS bleed does is push any air in each channel into the lines. From there you do a pressure bleed following the normal procedure removing any air from the system. Caliper position or bleeder doesn’t affect the process.

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Hey guys, so I wasn't able to get the brakes I was looking at before they sold. My brakes are making the squel from low pads now, so I need to do this install, especially with driving 200-300 miles a day. I found these brakes, front and rear, from a guy in San Jose (see photos), with as busy as work has been recently I was thinking about paying to have them sent to LA and getting a shop to knock them out in a day. Though as far as youncan tell from the photos they look fine? He said everything is included, calipers, rotors, dust shields, brake lines.

Then I was thinking these pads
Hawk Street 5.0 HB803B.639 Rear
Hawk Street 5.0 HB802B.661 Front
Will I also need new hardware for the calipers?

I appreciate any help, I've been crazy busy with work (12-14hrs a day) and I use my car for work so I need to get this taken care of properly ASAP and have minimal down time

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Oh and those brakes are from a non/PP 2016 GT, mines a 2018 Ecoboost without/PP
No issues there with the years right?

 

[paugustinos]

I did the swap on my car to the 4 pot fronts from a GT. I haven't done the rear yet. Ill let my rear brakes pad wear out then change them to GT. Either way. All you have to do is swap the calipers themselves. Maybe change the lines from the stock 2 piston brakes. Then put on the rotors that fit with them. You do not have to change the dust shield. I didn't swap mine and there is no issues plus I believe it is the same part anyways. Other then that its really just swap, bleed the brakes, done. Rears should be the same too.

Edit: Year shouldn't matter since it is the same parts.

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

I did the swap on my car to the 4 pot fronts from a GT. I haven't done the rear yet. Ill let my rear brakes pad wear out then change them to GT. Either way. All you have to do is swap the calipers themselves. Maybe change the lines from the stock 2 piston brakes. Then put on the rotors that fit with them. You do not have to change the dust shield. I didn't swap mine and there is no issues plus I believe it is the same part anyways. Other then that its really just swap, bleed the brakes, done. Rears should be the same too.

Edit: Year shouldn't matter since it is the same parts.

So I got the brakes and got started tonight, I only worked on the passenger rear side, I expected to just swap the original rotor for the new vented rotor from the GT. I noticed the calipers looked a little different

Upon installing the caliper back on I realized the original one wasn't wide enough for the new vented rotor, so I had to install the GT rear rotor instead.

Where I'm currently at and called it a rest for the night is at taking the brake fluid line off, can I mess this up? Will I send air into the line and cause problems? I plan to flush the system using the two person bleeder method once I'm done with all the brakes.
This is my first time doing any brake related work myself

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Also the previous owner had the calipers removed whole, except for the drivers rear that was fully taken apart that I cleaned, applied brake grease to and assembled again. The pads are like new on the brakes, is there any reason to remove the pads and apply grease? The pads haven't been removed from the calipers, was just gonna slide them back onto the discs and hook them up

 

[1QwkEcoBoost]

One thing you may want to invest in is a motive pressure bleeder. It makes bleeding the brakes a one person job. If you do end up with air in the lines you can get out or a low brake pedal you can use FORSCAN to do the ABS bleed service that helps get any air in the ABS module out and into the actual brake lines where you can then bleed the brakes like normal. I did my entire bleed back to front in less than an hour.

 

[Benjamin Hundred]

Alright just got the whole set on the car and bled the system with the two person bottle and brake pedal method. Everything seems great, way more stopping power too!

Though I've been noticing a slight metal rubbing and high pitch noise when I turn left at low speeds, it comes and goes so it's not all the time. I didn't want to stick it back on jacks right now and needed a flat repaired so I took it to Les Schwab and they said the front rotors are shot and that's why it's making the noise. Sound legit? If so, should I go OEM on new rotors or get aftermarket?

Thanks guys!

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