Moonshinegulch
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- #1
Hello all, I know this is actually an old thread but I was dealing with the problem on my Grandson's 2017. The passenger side window was dropping and at times would drop and go back up repeatedly while standing there and watching it. Needless to say that I read a lot about fixes, potential fixes and a multitude of problems on your forum. Much good information there. What I found in my case (I did not see anyone else discuss this) was the door latch and the position of the striker wasn't right (sorry, no photos - didn't think I would be writing this).
After disconnecting every electrical plug in that door except the window motor and the latch assy. and using the shank of a phillips screwdriver (simulatiing the striker)and the battery connected I would close the door latch. I found that the window might go all the way up or it might not. By experimentation I found that if I would apply simulated closing force in the bottom of the track in the latch that the striker goes into I would hear a definite "click" (latch closing) and the window would go up and stay there.
I tried to see where the striker was positioned in that slot but of course you can't see the final position once the door is closed. As near as I could tell the striker rode slightly above the center of the slot but my experimintation indicated that it should be lower. Not a lot but lower.
There are no provisions for adjustment of the striker but upon removing the two bolts holding it I found the top hole was round and the bottom hole was slotted with the mounting bolt positioned about in the middle of the slot. Also, the captured nuts were not fixed (could move around some). This left some room for some good old shadetree adjusting. I removed approximately 1/16" from the bottom of the top holeand reattached the striker making sure it wasn't hitting anything and was riding lower in the slot than it had been. The door latch and the window worked as intended. This is 12 days now since I did this and all is well so far.
I did not find any water around but I did put dielectric grease on every connection (good practice). Not saying that anyone else will have this problem but I did notice some people still seem to be searching for a solution. Maybe what I found may help someone out.
After disconnecting every electrical plug in that door except the window motor and the latch assy. and using the shank of a phillips screwdriver (simulatiing the striker)and the battery connected I would close the door latch. I found that the window might go all the way up or it might not. By experimentation I found that if I would apply simulated closing force in the bottom of the track in the latch that the striker goes into I would hear a definite "click" (latch closing) and the window would go up and stay there.
I tried to see where the striker was positioned in that slot but of course you can't see the final position once the door is closed. As near as I could tell the striker rode slightly above the center of the slot but my experimintation indicated that it should be lower. Not a lot but lower.
There are no provisions for adjustment of the striker but upon removing the two bolts holding it I found the top hole was round and the bottom hole was slotted with the mounting bolt positioned about in the middle of the slot. Also, the captured nuts were not fixed (could move around some). This left some room for some good old shadetree adjusting. I removed approximately 1/16" from the bottom of the top holeand reattached the striker making sure it wasn't hitting anything and was riding lower in the slot than it had been. The door latch and the window worked as intended. This is 12 days now since I did this and all is well so far.
I did not find any water around but I did put dielectric grease on every connection (good practice). Not saying that anyone else will have this problem but I did notice some people still seem to be searching for a solution. Maybe what I found may help someone out.
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