2016 GT Battery issue

[justa16yote]

New battery, how long have you driven it continuously for any one time? And do you have it on a battery tender?
Reason I ask, is that the first time I replaced the battery, it took a 4 hour drive before the voltage reading on the dash dropped from 14.5V, down to 12.6V. And this time when I replaced the battery, keeping it on the battery tender, it took days before the tender showed the battery charged. In other words, these batteries take a long time when new, to get completely charged.

The farthest I’ve driven it continuously so far is about 2 hours where the voltage was at 13.8-13.9V for the whole time

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[jloshotz]

I would also suspect there might be an issue with the amp. It could just have an internal solid state malfunction, causing a constant draw showing no external indication of such. Pull and cap the remote lead and positive lead for a few days. Assuming something hasn’t already damaged your new battery, see how it holds up like that. Everything here is pointing towards the “add-on.” That’s the first logical approach i would head straight towards. As mentioned above, have you access to a DC amp probe? Have you confirmed/dispelled an amp draw with one yet? Using that method, you can disconnect things; pull fuses while checking. If it zeroes out, you found your culprit, or offending circuit. Have to attack it methodically to get to the root cause in a reasonable, straightforward way. Good luck

 

[compucarnut]

The alternator voltage is all over the place with these cars with their weird voltage regulating system. Mine sometimes stays at 12.6 volts while driving on the highway, park it , starts fine, then says 13.7. Then I park it, and voltmeter says 12.6. Theirs no rhyme or reason to this charging system

 

[justa16yote]

I would also suspect there might be an issue with the amp. It could just have an internal solid state malfunction, causing a constant draw showing no external indication of such. Pull and cap the remote lead and positive lead for a few days. Assuming something hasn’t already damaged your new battery, see how it holds up like that. Everything here is pointing towards the “add-on.” That’s the first logical approach i would head straight towards. As mentioned above, have you access to a DC amp probe? Have you confirmed/dispelled an amp draw with one yet? Using that method, you can disconnect things; pull fuses while checking. If it zeroes out, you found your culprit, or offending circuit. Have to attack it methodically to get to the root cause in a reasonable, straightforward way. Good luck

I have been lead to think the amp was causing the power draw, so I added another remote wire for the amp, ran it to the fuse box in the passenger area, and connected it to the power windows fuse, while also connecting the remote wire for the converter to the amp. Without the extra remote wire tapped into the fuse, the amp would stay powered on for an extra minute or two after the car is shut off, and more than likely the converter was still powered on. Also tested everything after the extra remote wire was ran and the amp powered on as soon as the car was on, and turned off as soon as the car was turned off

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