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-12 AN Valve cover fittings

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Nctong01

Nctong01

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What kind of setup are you running that needs -12? A setup with -10 is normally more than enough. If you are getting so much blow-by that you need -12 you might want to look into it
Me? It's a single g57 88mm build...fully built longblock w/th400, etc. Shooting for 1700wheel but might be limited by the initial fuel system. So I'd definitely rather play it safe with -12.
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Jackson1320

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Me? It's a single g57 88mm build...fully built longblock w/th400, etc. Shooting for 1700wheel but might be limited by the initial fuel system. So I'd definitely rather play it safe with -12.
Sounds like a lot of fun
 

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I'll say from experience. Don't waste your time with those factory adapter fittings. Buy a set of aftermarket valve covers or gt500 and weld them.

I HATE my -12 fittings and plan to weld bungs before this season.
 

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Ok maybe you know more about his setup. Maybe he is running a high power setup. If I ran a high power setup I would run a smog pump setup to pull air out of the crank case
Slowing the air movement down but still releasing the pressure is the case. in most cases, you're right. -10 is enough. But with ethonal/methonal fuel and loose rings, -12 and above is a must to not fill your catch cans in every run.

An older gentleman explain is to me this way.

Try splitting with your mouth open. You've gotta close your lips tight to move the spit.. Same situation.

And when youre running a vacuum pump, same thing. You want big lines to not draw oil.
 
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I'll say from experience. Don't waste your time with those factory adapter fittings. Buy a set of aftermarket valve covers or gt500 and weld them.

I HATE my -12 fittings and plan to weld bungs before this season.
Really? What issues do you have with them? Of course OEM had to be plastic :frown:
 

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Really? What issues do you have with them? Of course OEM had to be plastic :frown:
They come loose and they break the little engagement notch's in the valve cover and you end up either threading it for NPT or welding them anyway.
 

Jackson1320

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Slowing the air movement down but still releasing the pressure is the case. in most cases, you're right. -10 is enough. But with ethonal/methonal fuel and loose rings, -12 and above is a must to not fill your catch cans in every run.

An older gentleman explain is to me this way.

Try splitting with your mouth open. You've gotta close your lips tight to move the spit.. Same situation.

And when youre running a vacuum pump, same thing. You want big lines to not draw oil.
I hear from a couple people that the vacuum pump is good for up to 60hp on a boosted coyote? I have no confirmation on this but what do you think?
 

Jackson1320

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They come loose and they break the little engagement notch's in the valve cover and you end up either threading it for NPT or welding them anyway.
I installed a set of-10 fittings with some adhesive because they kept coming loose
 

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I hear from a couple people that the vacuum pump is good for up to 60hp on a boosted coyote? I have no confirmation on this but what do you think?
I've personally never seen a boosted coyote with a vacuum pump. And i'm trying to remember if i've seen any boosted engine that has a vacuum set up. I'd imagine that it would help combustion but no idea if it would help that much. I know on a n/a application, it helps greatly.

In my mind, i would think that on a boosted engine, since the intake stroke is pressurized, it would release blow by into the crank case in theory pushing crank case pressure out and not needing a vacuum pump.

I know on a n/a application, a vacuum pump helps due to it pulling the crank case pressure's out before they can be sucked into the cylinder during the intake stroke creating a better combustion.
 

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Vacuum pumps will always help with crankcase evacuation in boosted/nitrous or NA setups but the real HP gains come from an engine setup with a low friction ring package in mind from the start to take advantage of the increased ring seal.
 
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Jackson1320

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Vacuum pumps will always help with crankcase evacuation in boosted/nitrous or NA setups but the real HP gains come from an engine setup with a low friction ring package in mind from the start to take advantage of the increased ring seal.
Ok but how does the low friction ring help with crank case pressure?
 

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Ok but how does the low friction ring help with crank case pressure?
It doesnt. It makes it worse as they don’t seal very good without the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump helps those rings seal and being low friction there are hp gains to be had. With the combo. Not every modification on its own yields results. I’m just pointing out that for larger hp gains with a vacuum pump they are typically used with the low friction ring package that you couldn’t run without the pump. Pump alone is still worth some gains but only attributed to crankcase evacuation.
 

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It doesnt. It makes it worse as they don’t seal very good without the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump helps those rings seal and being low friction there are hp gains to be had. With the combo. Not every modification on its own yields results. I’m just pointing out that for larger hp gains with a vacuum pump they are typically used with the low friction ring package that you couldn’t run without the pump. Pump alone is still worth some gains but only attributed to crankcase evacuation.
If I was going to change rings I would look into gapless and gas ported pistons
 

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Really? What issues do you have with them? Of course OEM had to be plastic :frown:
I had an issue with them coming loose and also the little nipple inside the valve cover breaking off. I ended up buying GT500 covers and welding on bungs.
 
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Nctong01

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I had an issue with them coming loose and also the little nipple inside the valve cover breaking off. I ended up buying GT500 covers and welding on bungs.
Guess I had some foreshadowing...ordered the gt500 covers a few days before this :cwl: Thanks for the heads up man, sounds like I would have run into the same isssue.
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