Knock at +10 and light throttle. Uh oh.

higdominator said:

So how exactly do you open with that in regards to the wife?

Asking for a friend.

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LOL I think he means it is easier to explain you need a new motor once it is hurt or blown, but explaining you want to yank the motor out when it is running perfectly fine sometimes raises an eyebrow.

TooSoonJunior said:

LOL I think he means it is easier to explain you need a new motor once it is hurt or blown, but explaining you want to yank the motor out when it is running perfectly fine sometimes raises an eyebrow.

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Exactly. Kinda like having a girlfriend when your relationship with your wife is ok. Easier to explain if your already broke up. Hahahhaa

I bought a $10 boroscope camera off ebay. I looked at the low compression cylinders 7 and 8. And looked around in 1 and 5. They all look the same. A decent amount of carbon deposits, mostly to the sides of the center section. Valve pocket areas have even coating. Cylinder walls look good. I can see some light marks running vertical but they look the same as the good cylinders. I can't get it turn turn around good enough to look at the head side. I'll have to rig up a little string or tape to pull the camera backwards.

A leakdown test will tell you where the loss is. Whether it be rings, gasket etc.

I need to get one of those just for fun. But yeah, get a leakdown done, or if you have a compressor, get or build a leakdown tester.

Hope you get her figured out with minimal damage. Your post made me paranoid with the knock I got on return system before reverting to old setup. Dry test on mildly warm motor was 210, 208, 210, 210, 205, 207, 205, 205. New tune being scheduled for AED.

Those numbers look great.

OP sorry for your loss.

But if I am reading this correct Procharger are saying that any car running FI on a stock engine will create too much heat if WOT is maintained for more than 1/4 mile?

Is that true?

If the case then surely peoples engines would be dropping left, right and centre?

Makes no sense to me, my mate has a Whipple, around 700WHP, Lund tuned, stock engine (OPG done) and its being WOT and ran upto towards 200mph several times. But based on what Procharger guy is saying thats enough to kill the engine, true?

Or am I just reading this wrong?

I think what he is saying is... when you push these stock engines hard, you are generating a ton of heat for sustained amounts of time, which can be detrimental depending on many factors. One of them being tight ring gaps.

Crackerjack17 said:

I think what he is saying is... when you push these stock engines hard, you are generating a ton of heat for sustained amounts of time, which can be detrimental depending on many factors. One of them being tight ring gaps.

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I've got a few mates who own these cars in Germany and they regular sit at 150mph plus for several minutes at a time, no engine issues for them.

An engine should be able to sit on a bench and operate for hours and maximum RPM without failure which the Coyote in stock form is capable off.

If FI is shortening their life so much, then to me going FI is way too risky unless your gonna spend the money on building the motor, might as well stay NA and safe.

I think he was saying the Coyote is designed for NA and if you FI the stock engine, there is a little risk, as heat can build on the pistons faster than will register as CHT that gets monitored in the tune. Those built with tighter ring gaps being vulnerable.

There isn't many of these types of threads, but you have MMR advertising a cylinder 8 cooling mod. Implying that cylinder 8 runs a little hotter than normal.

Crackerjack17 said:

I bought a $10 boroscope camera off ebay. I looked at the low compression cylinders 7 and 8. And looked around in 1 and 5. They all look the same. A decent amount of carbon deposits, mostly to the sides of the center section. Valve pocket areas have even coating. Cylinder walls look good. I can see some light marks running vertical but they look the same as the good cylinders. I can't get it turn turn around good enough to look at the head side. I'll have to rig up a little string or tape to pull the camera backwards.

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Did you ever find out the cause? I've been chasing what i thought was false knock and now im worried. I have similar symptoms with knock up to +9 cruising light load, but get -4* at wot.

Gibbo205 said:

OP sorry for your loss.

But if I am reading this correct Procharger are saying that any car running FI on a stock engine will create too much heat if WOT is maintained for more than 1/4 mile?

Is that true?

If the case then surely peoples engines would be dropping left, right and centre?

Makes no sense to me, my mate has a Whipple, around 700WHP, Lund tuned, stock engine (OPG done) and its being WOT and ran upto towards 200mph several times. But based on what Procharger guy is saying thats enough to kill the engine, true?

Or am I just reading this wrong?

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I have taken apart MANY of these engines for friends that are upgrading.

Some have pretty decent ring gaps stock (some even up to 18)
Others have had as tight as 8!!!


If anyone thinks a motor with a ring gap that tight will survive a pull to 200 MPH with 700+hp, they are a little cray cray as the internet kids say.



These motors are amazing but do have a variation to them.
Just because "your mates is fine" doesn't mean yours will be.




Anyone is free to do what they want.
Im just being honest saying that its no different then going to the casino and betting on "black" it might work out, it might not. And unless you been inside your motor, you have no idea knowing.

ProChargerTECH said:

I have taken apart MANY of these engines for friends that are upgrading.

Some have pretty decent ring gaps stock (some even up to 18)
Others have had as tight as 8!!!


If anyone thinks a motor with a ring gap that tight will survive a pull to 200 MPH with 700+hp, they are a little cray cray as the internet kids say.



These motors are amazing but do have a variation to them.
Just because "your mates is fine" doesn't mean yours will be.




Anyone is free to do what they want.
Im just being honest saying that its no different then going to the casino and betting on "black" it might work out, it might not. And unless you been inside your motor, you have no idea knowing.

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this has me concerned now :headbonk:

Storm728 said:

this has me concerned now :headbonk:

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The majority I have seen have been in the 12-15 range.
Which is pretty normal for an "emissions motor"
(remember these new S550's are LV3 emissions)

However in a motor filled with pistons at 15, is where (2) slugs were 8!
So ya, thank goodness he was upgrading.


At a normal boost level, and normal 1/8th mile and 1/4 mile runs.
I know I personally have NO worries at all.

But those long 200mph pulls put a LOT of heat into the piston, and thats when trouble can start. I don't know many people that try to make runs like that, so really 99% of my friends never worry about it.