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Man... clean that car! (Obviously JK!) yup that sounds pretty good. Just wait til' that boost tho!

If you're NA, I think Krona sounds really good. It's going to be pretty loud WOT for sure. If you go forced induction, it's LOUD. As in I got stopped by the po-lice in a buddy's car with TSP/Krona just test driving it after doing some work at normal rpm and light throttle - at WOT it was mind...

Cool thanks

Also can you link the MOOG replacement bearings you used?

Wasn't expecting to find this thread on the classified sale sections but since it's here I'm wondering - if it's clicking in the rear on one side or the other, when you take the hub off the car, is there a way to tell if the bearing is bad by hand or by looking? I've got my whole suspension...

no price listed and pictures have someone else's username on them? I'm looking for a 6060 tho

Sub'd lol

Not sure about the OPG being the same part number but I imagine the harmonics are night and day different between the 5.2 and the 5.0 ! Everyone's got their comfort zone for rpm and OPG's but I'd be damned spinning mine to 8k without lol

Nope not normally. You're not going into the back where the crank sensor wheel is (like a flywheel replacement.). That being said I'm sure it wouldn't hurt anything if you did.

Here's what it looks like on Stacey's 18+ car with a 150mm throttle body

I asked Lund about that condition and he said he's never seen it. Guess I'm chock full of firsts!

Thanks guys. It does help - all suggestions are appreciated. I'm seriously thinking there's nothing wrong on the hardware side and that tuning is the culprit the more time I think on this. It wouldn't likely replicate the code throwing and limp mode with two separate throttle bodies and two...

Yeah I sent the logs of it happening to Lund and he was pretty clear there was nothing to be done because I'm the only person having the problem with a 132mm throttle body so it must be mechanical.

I definitely don't want to lose abs or stability control all the time - but if doing it once would fix it I'd do it. I keep thinking tune, but Lund is saying it's mechanical. Working with Will at whipple to see what he thinks of the throttle body I sent back to him but if it was that part, it...

I'm not sure but i wonder if that's the same effect as unplugging the dyno plug that's on the drivers fender where the air box used to be? I think that's where my intercooler fuse tap is on mine too but I'm out of town with family.

Ok I'll give that a shot too. Thanks!

Gotcha. I replaced that wiring harness extension already though, and the old one didn't appear to be damaged (but I did it anyway). Everything was routed awya from everyting else - there's really nowhere for anything to rub or get damaged. Drives fine all the time, except if I want to launch...

What fuse is this for and what does it do? Were you having the same problem and this resolved it? Thanks for the idea - toss me a little more info if you have time. Thanks!

So - I've been trying to chase down a recurring P2119 code in my 2018 GT with a Whipple with the 132mm throttle body. It almost always happens when laucnhing and shifting hard to second gear and hitting the gas, it'll lose power and then fall on it's face and go into limp mode and throw code...

Im still waiting on my Mantic refund after a couple weeks but since then I've gone to a McLeod RXT and it worked like it should have the first time and drives like a stock clutch - I almost forget its aftermarket once getting the initial engagement down. No noises you wouldn't expect from a...